Locking Ignition

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88LiftdBronco

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I've been trying to solve this problem for awhile now and i can't quite get the problem solved. The lock cylinder in my bronco was just replaced along with the box under the dash when it started having problems the first time (about 3 or 4 months ago). Well over the past week or so it got to the point where the ignition will lock up RIGHT before the start position so i can't start my motor (yet again). When it does that i can turn it back with ease until i try to turn the key to "ACC". I have tried pulling the lock cylinder out off the steering column (no tilt) and it won't come out. I know how to pull it out and have done it to replace it a few months back, but it won't come out any farther than about a 1/4 inch. Just took my lower dash and dropped my steering column to get to the box below and so i could replace again if necessary but i found out that it wasn't the problem. The rod isn't bent and the box is brand new which left me with the lock cylinder that was the problem. Only problem is that it will not come out of the steering column so i can fix it. Any suggestions?

Also when the ignition started messing up, my turn signals quit working. Could the problem with the signals be directly related to my ignition? I'd really like to drive my bronco again but i can't until its fixed because i got pulled over a couple nights ago and now im marked until its fixed.

Thank You,

~Levi~

 

Seabronc

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You will probably have to do the procedure outlined for repair as if you didn't have a key for the cylinder. It sounds like something inside the mechanism is broken or something got into that area of the column and is blocking it. Tilt or non-tilt column?

Good luck,

:)>-

 
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nelbur

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The information I have is for an '86, but if yours is the same, there is a cylinder release hole near the base of the cylinder, that is reached by taking off the steering wheel, on non-tilt models. The procedure is to disconnect the battery, turn the key to the run position, mark the position so you can reinstall the cylinder in the run position, and release the cylinder using a pin punch or a stiff wire in the release hole.

 
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88LiftdBronco

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Like i previously stated, i know how to take out the lock cylinder from the steering column, but it will not come out. I've tried every position, with and without power, every steering wheel position, and even tried standing on my head but it wont come out. lol its just being a pain in my a$$

 

nelbur

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lol, I understood that you THINK you know the cylinder removal procedure. I was suggesting that you may have misremembered one of the steps. Have you tried removing the steering wheel and pushing a wire into the cylinder unlocking hole?

 
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88LiftdBronco

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lol well last time when i replaced the lock cylinder i cut off the power to the battery and turned the key to the on position and pushed the pin in on the lock. it came right out without any issue, but now that i need to take it out again it locks in place about a 1/4 inch out of place and wont budge any farther.

i could be wrong and need to remove it a different way or take extra steps. (sorry for bein a **** lol. just gettin aggravated at my ignition)

 
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88LiftdBronco

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I havent been completely through the steering column yet so i dont know if its broken or not. im saving that for tomorrow if its warmer than it has been outside. HOPEFULLY its somethin inexpensive and easy to replace cuz im tired of this problem.

does anyone have any ideas why my turn signals quit with the ignition though?

 
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88LiftdBronco

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ok, thanks. I still havent gotten around to tearing it apart to find out, but i will pretty soon if the weather gets better

 

Rons beast

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Before you tear everything out of the column again, disconnect the ign. switch from the actuator rod. That is the little box attached at the bottom of the column with the electrical connector plugged in. The turn signals run their power through the switch. If the switch is bad, and all trashed inside it could prevent the lock cylinder from working properly. You can change a dozen lock cylinders, but they won't turn properly if the switch is bad and preventing the actuator rod from moving smooth.

I have found more than one new switch that had it's inners crap out after a few starts.

 

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