‘92 ignition trouble

[Eicheld]

I’m having trouble with my ‘92 bronco’s ignition. It will turn to accessory and on, but will not turn to off. The engine will shut off, but the power stays on so the battery dies. I have removed the lock cylinder and tried replacing it, but the problem persisted. Has anyone else run into this kind of problem before? I’m running out of ideas.

 

[Tiha]

There are gears behind the lock and tumbler assembly that can be worn out but I was thinking when that happens the switch will not turn over far enough to start the engine.

The ignition switch itself is under the dash by the brake pedal. It is operated by a rod inside the steering column attached to the key and tumbler.

You could take that ignition switch off and operate it with a ***** driver and see if you can find off.

If you can, then it could very well be the gear assembly behind the lock and tumbler.

If you can't then the switch itself is bad, or there is a short, or stuck relay somewhere.

What is on? Like just the radio? Or the entire dash cluster? Like all the gauges still on?

 

[miesk5]

Yo Eicheld,
Welcome to our Bronco community!

Lock Cylinder Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..."
Source: by KC200787 at FSB

Actuator Rod & Switch Operation Overvew; "...The actuator rod on tilt columns is a culprit. The key turns a rod via a rack. The rod goes over the pin sticking out of the rod pictured above. That part wraps up over the column where yet another rod goes into it that travels down the top of the column to a remote mounted switch block. This block actually makes contact. The Aluminum piece above breaks and you no longer can push that rod. The longer straight section going to the top right of that picture is there only for the ignition lock (that little lever under the column you need to use to get your key back)... read more
Source: by shift1313 (Matt) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location (near driver's side hood hinge) in Engine Bay Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Ford via me.

Ignition Control Module​

Removal

1. Remove two screws retaining ignition control module (ICM) (12A297) heat sink assembly to left fender apron.

1. Disconnect harness connector from ignition control module.

1. Remove two screws retaining ignition control module to heat sink and remove ignition control module.

Installation

1. Coat ignition control module baseplate with silicone compound, approximately 0.0179mm (1/32-inch) thick. Use Silicone Dielectric Compound (WA-10) D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.

1. Position ignition control module onto heat sink and tighten two retaining screws to 1.2-1.8 Nm (11-16 lb-in).

1. Install ignition control module heat sink assembly on left fender apron using two retaining screws, and tighten to 9-14 Nm (80-124 lb-in).

1. Connect wiring to ignition control module.

Here's the 1992 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.broncocorral.com/resources/1992_ford_bronco_brochure.pdf

See these 93 Body/Chassis and Drive Train Manuals that are applicable to your 92 @ 1993 Ford Truck Service Manuals - Google Drive
In pop-up, Click "Drive"

Haynes Red Repair Manual for 80-95 Bronco/F Series
@ Haynes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf retrieved by BroncMom!

 

[Eicheld]

There are gears behind the lock and tumbler assembly that can be worn out but I was thinking when that happens the switch will not turn over far enough to start the engine.

The ignition switch itself is under the dash by the brake pedal. It is operated by a rod inside the steering column attached to the key and tumbler.

You could take that ignition switch off and operate it with a ***** driver and see if you can find off.

If you can, then it could very well be the gear assembly behind the lock and tumbler.

If you can't then the switch itself is bad, or there is a short, or stuck relay somewhere.

What is on? Like just the radio? Or the entire dash cluster? Like all the gauges still on?

The dash cluster turns off, and even the stereo screen turns off, but there is definitely still power on because the battery (2 months old) is dead the next day.
Also I put the original lock cylinder back in and it will now turn back to off, but any new lock cylinder still doesn’t work. Will probably just replace the ignition switch anyway, or at least have one ordered and on standby in case this happens again. Thanks for the insight!

 

[Tiha]

If your cluster is turning off and all your accessories then it is probably not the ignition switch. You have a drain someplace else.

Have you ever taken a battery cable off and stuck a test light between the cable and the battery post?

If the test light lights you have a drain.

Usually I start pulling fuses until the test light goes out to narrow down the circuit. Things like radio memory is normal.

Also a bad diode in the alternator will cause a drain on the system and zap the battery pretty fast.

 

[ShadetreeSeattle]

I'd confirm by removing the ignition switch and letting it hang underneath the dash. Use a scerew driver to ensure the switch is in the off position. remember that ford's switch sequence is ACC, OFF, UNLOCK IGN, START. pulling switch up toward the steering wheel should get you to ACC position, one click forward is OFF. switch should have detents which make it somewhat easy to find each position. if the switch lacks detents, if it feels sloppy or mechanically messed up, i'd replace the switch just for peace of mind.

I 2nd checking other systems as well.

A failed voltage regulator on the alternator can also run a battery dead very fast, if it's shorted on. Dead giveaway would be if when running engine you see the battery go over voltage (over 14.99v) if problem persists, unplug the 3pin connector on the voltage regulator of alternator.

Stereo can also be culprit, if none the above works, pull the cigar lighter/stereo fuse.

Much less common, but If you have A/C, if the relay becomes stuck on, the electric A/C clutch can also run a battery dead fast. you could pull the A/C relay to test this theory, or disconnect the A/C clutch power connector. if you hear/see the A/C clutch disengage, well there's your issue. it should never be on with key off.

Using a test light between the battery terminal and connector to test flow may not be an ideal way of finding the issue, an LED test light will come on with very negligible current flow. if going the route of using testing tools between battery+ and connector, use a multimeter in 10A setting and wire in series to battery+ and the disconnected +battery connector. Do not turn ign on or run any significant load thru the multi-meter or attempt to start. the multimeter is fused and will not tolerate anything above 10A for a short duration of time. a nominal current draw of 50-100milliamps is normal. more than 100milliamps is a concern. if somethings running the battery dead overnight, it's likely in the 1000 milliamps or more threshold.

the fact you see no stereo on or indicator lamps on dash illuminated i believe means that the EEC relay is in fact switching off as it should. Pretty sure if that relay were stuck on you would see check-engine lamp and would find 12v at ignition coil and injectors.

Hope this helps.