ignition key won't go into key tumbler

[mikefamig]

Like the title says, my ignition key won't go into the ignition switch.

I had a problem with the ignition not being able to go into the accessory position and replacing the ignition switch (electrical switch at bottom of column) fixed it. I was really happy with myself until later in the day when I went to drive the truck and the key will no longer go into the ignition tumbler.

I thought that it may have to do with the steering wheel lock so I took the steering wheel off to look at it. The wheel is removed and the turn signal switch is pulled back out of the way and this really was no help at. all. Everything is good except that the key tumbler is messed up.


EDIT:

I should have mentioned that I also removed the electrical switch again to see if the actuator rod was still connected and it appears to be fine. The key switch wiggles when I push and pull on the actuator rod.

So has anone dealt with this in the past? Any ideas on how to get the tumbler removed without putting the key in and turning it to the on position?

Thanks in advance, Mike.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Mike,

View attachment 169649

When ignition key is turned to start the cylinder's brass gear is timed to move the igniton actuator and its rod downward so the rod triggers the igniton switch to start.
"... If the brass gear is stripped, the ignition switch itself won't work, because without that brass gear...the rod won't actuate the switch."

The ignition switch located on the lower part of the steering column has slots so it can be adjusted by loosening the 2 -7/16 nuts and move it up or down but a lot depends on what's wrong up top with some of the other parts

NOTE, Below the cylinder and key (11582) in the ****** is a brass gear (3E717), flat bearing (3E700) and snap ring (3C610). these three parts are the same from 1976 thru 1996.

View attachment 169650
Gear pic by Chris B in his 85

View attachment 169647
New actuator with the old ignition rod installed by Chris B

The rod goes over the pin sticking out of the rod that and travels down the top of the column to the remote mounted ignition switch.
The ignition switch located on the lower part of the steering column has slots so it can be adjusted by loosening the 2 -7/16 nuts and move it up or down but a lot depends on what's wrong up top with some of the other parts.
Compiled by info posted by members Chris B (Bronco Boy) and JKossarides. (rest in peace friend).

View attachment 169652View attachment 169653View attachment 169654

 

[miesk5]

Yo, part 2,
Due to our lousy automated deletion and replacement with asterisks of a certain term such as in my aiove post "NOTE, Below the cylinder and key (11582) in the ******
Asterisks replaced f l a n g e

 

[mikefamig]

Thanks Miesk5 but the actuator and new switch were working fine. The problem is that I could not get the key into the slot. I messed around with it until I finally got the key in and was able to remove the key tumbler assembly. I'm waiting on a new lock to put it back together.

I had just replaced the electrical switch and it was all good until I went to use the car and the key wouldn't go into the key slot. I think that the stronger spring in the new switch put an extra load on the tumbler and caused something inside it to get out of alignment not allowing the key to enter the lock.

I played with the removed tumbler a little and now the key is stuck in it so the tumbler is definitely a problem.

 

[miesk5]

Mike,
Sorry, bad vision day again, .Kingfish with an 88 wrote elsewhere: "the first time my ignition cylinder broke, a locksmith fixed it and said NEVER use graphite if you live in very humid places as it can junk up really bad which caused the problem..,
Another thing is that if the steering wheel is locked to one side (from turning the wheel with the key out till it clicks) then the key wont turn until you turn the wheel the direction its locked in while turning the key. i used to do this to friends to **** them off cause they wouldnt know how to start there car.
if its your 88 thats broken then its like a 1 minute replacement. however i never had to replace my 96 and it looks quite abit harder due to trim"

 

[mikefamig]

Yeah I know about the load that the steering wheel can put on the key switch and good tip on the graphite, I've never thought of that. I'm thinking of using a synthetic spray lubricant called Triflow. It is delivered as a liquid from a spray can but dries into a solid lubricant.

This would be a quick lock change if I hadn't removed the electrical switch down below to see if the actuator was still working freely. I also removed the steering wheel to see if it would allow me to get the tumbler out without the key inserted but that was a waste of time. The switch is pretty easy if you drop the steering column and the wheel is simple so no big deal

 

[mikefamig]

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[Motech]

Common cause of your issue is the lock cylinder keyhole with attached external thumb tabs start to break off the inner cylinder and become misaligned. Some twisting to realign it will typically allow your key back in.

 

[mikefamig]

Now I received a cheap $15 key lock from amazon and it will not fit into the steering column. I aligned the switch actuator with the tumbler but the tumbler will not slide in the last 1/4" or so.

I ordered an Echlin part from NAPA and will try that next.

 

[mikefamig]

I'm still stuck on getting a new key tumbler assembly to go into the steering column. I have an SMP lock from Amazon that wouldn;t fit so I bought asecond Echlin lock and it is exactly the same and doesn't fit.

I proved that everything is aligned properly because the old lock slides right in with no effort and a nice little click.

Has anyone ever had this problem? Any help would be appreciated.

Mime.

 

[captjm1]

Have you tried Dorman?

Dorman Products - Search Results

Dorman gives auto repair professionals and vehicle owners greater freedom to fix cars and trucks by focusing on solutions first.

www.dormanproducts.com

Also don't forget about YouTube video's, some folks have posted some DYI stuff. Good luck!

 

[L\Bronco]

I'm still stuck on getting a new key tumbler assembly to go into the steering column. I have an SMP lock from Amazon that wouldn;t fit so I bought asecond Echlin lock and it is exactly the same and doesn't fit.

I proved that everything is aligned properly because the old lock slides right in with no effort and a nice little click.

Has anyone ever had this problem? Any help would be appreciated.

Mime.

Not too sure Mike, does the new one get stuck near the bottom of the travel? Or simply won't fit in the hole?
I've had them where a slight mis alignment prevents the drive tab on the bottom of the lock from engaging the rack gear in the column, but the worn out one slides right in. If this is the case, loosen the 2 nuts that hold the ign switch in place and wiggle the switch (parallel to the column) while installing the lock. This will align all the bits easily.
Let us know how it goes.
Cheers

 

[mikefamig]

Not too sure Mike, does the new one get stuck near the bottom of the travel? Or simply won't fit in the hole?
I've had them where a slight mis alignment prevents the drive tab on the bottom of the lock from engaging the rack gear in the column, but the worn out one slides right in. If this is the case, loosen the 2 nuts that hold the ign switch in place and wiggle the switch (parallel to the column) while installing the lock. This will align all the bits easily.
Let us know how it goes.
Cheers

I thought of that myself so I removed the electrical switch again so that I can grab the actuator rod from below and move it up and down and that is no help. I can see that the casting on the replacement parts have rounded corners where the original has nice sharp corners and a caliper tells me that it is a little larger.

I think that I have a handle on this now. I sat down with the Ford Master Parts Catalog and came up with about six different part numbers for key cylinders that were made in the 1980's. there is only 1 for 1989 (e9tz-11582-a) which crosses to Motorcraft sw2241. The Echlin part claims to fit Broncos throughout the 80's but I have to disagree at this point. Some may be interchangeable but I am convinced now that this part does not fit my Bronco steering column.

The local Ford parts counter agrees with my part numbers and is trying to find me the Motorcraft part today. I'm waiting for his call.

I've attached a snip from the parts catalog

 

[mikefamig]

Have you tried Dorman?

Dorman Products - Search Results

Dorman gives auto repair professionals and vehicle owners greater freedom to fix cars and trucks by focusing on solutions first.

www.dormanproducts.com

Also don't forget about YouTube video's, some folks have posted some DYI stuff. Good luck!

Dorman, Carquest and others will be my next option if the Ford parts guy can't get me the Motorcraft part.

 

[mikefamig]

I returned the Echlin part to NAPA but I'm keeping the $15 SMP Amazon part and will use some dykem blue and a die grinder on it to try to make it fit as a last resort.

EDIT _ BTW the $35 Echlin part was exactly the same as the $15 SMP part right down to the casting marks

 

[Motech]

I ordered an Echlin part from NAPA and will try that next.

Can't go wrong with Echlin.

EDIT:
Oops.

 

[Motech]

I aligned the switch actuator with the tumbler but the tumbler will not slide in the last 1/4" or so.

You've covered everything quite well, but worth a mention.

I often encounter resistance that last 1/4" insertion, but never total failure on multiple replacement cylinders like you have. They most all fall in place with a little jiggling of the key that last 1/4".

Again, I'm certain you've covered that pretty good.


The next thing would be the gear rack being off a tooth. This should affect old lock cylinder too, but you never know. What it might also affect is ability to engage counterclockwise accessory mode, or start mode needing a firmer twist than normal.

It's real easy to get that rack misaligned if you've ever taken the snap ring and green guide-plate out, further complicated by ignition switch tinkering.

Try this before you hunt down more parts:

Since you're old lock cylinder still clicks in and works, reinstall it and readjust your ignition switch for best operation in all modes, cinch it down tight and leave it there.

Then pull the lock cylinder back out and take a peek inside there with your flashlight and see what the alignment of the rack pinion compared to the green guide plate looks like. They should be perfectly aligned with one another.

If not, and since the guide plate is fixed and cannot rotate, then the problem is in the alignment of that pinion piece. Could be just worn out (which a new lock cyl should be able to overcome) or off a tooth.

If tilt, and your alignment is off, snick that old cyl back in, tilt your wheel all the way up, remove cyl and check it again. Try this tilted all the way down too. If that pinion and guide-plate alignment shifts and allows replacement install, then check on that actuator up above it all. They can break and still otherwise function, and I've seen some replacements bend and cause downstream issues not unlike yours.

 

[mikefamig]

What is the "gear rack"? And I don't know what you mean by green guide plate.

 

[mikefamig]

You've covered everything quite well, but worth a mention.

I often encounter resistance that last 1/4" insertion, but never total failure on multiple replacement cylinders like you have. They most all fall in place with a little jiggling of the key that last 1/4".

Again, I'm certain you've covered that pretty good.


The next thing would be the gear rack being off a tooth. This should affect old lock cylinder too, but you never know. What it might also affect is ability to engage counterclockwise accessory mode, or start mode needing a firmer twist than normal.

It's real easy to get that rack misaligned if you've ever taken the snap ring and green guide-plate out, further complicated by ignition switch tinkering.

Try this before you hunt down more parts:

Since you're old lock cylinder still clicks in and works, reinstall it and readjust your ignition switch for best operation in all modes, cinch it down tight and leave it there.

Then pull the lock cylinder back out and take a peek inside there with your flashlight and see what the alignment of the rack pinion compared to the green guide plate looks like. They should be perfectly aligned with one another.

If not, and since the guide plate is fixed and cannot rotate, then the problem is in the alignment of that pinion piece. Could be just worn out (which a new lock cyl should be able to overcome) or off a tooth.

If tilt, and your alignment is off, snick that old cyl back in, tilt your wheel all the way up, remove cyl and check it again. Try this tilted all the way down too. If that pinion and guide-plate alignment shifts and allows replacement install, then check on that actuator up above it all. They can break and still otherwise function, and I've seen some replacements bend and cause downstream issues not unlike yours.

 

[mikefamig]

I re-installed and adjusted the electrical switch as advised and the old key cylinder and it all works fine again. I initially removed the cylinder because I could not get the key into the slot but after blowing it out and lubing it is working normally again. It is working but I expect that it will fail again. I can not say what was obstructing the key-way.

I removed the old tumbler again and the new one still goes all of the way in except for that last 1/4 inch or so. Then I installed the old cylinder again and it slips right in and works fine.

While I was working the Ford dealer called.He has located the Motorcraft part and I should have it in a few days.