E4OD. what to do?

[CJGamer]

Hi guys- been a bit since I've posted. My beast was running quite well after all the work I did on her this past winter and spring.

quick history. 1991 Bronco 302. Automatic E4OD. 168,000 miles. normal suspension.

Rebuilt quite a bit of the top end of the engine along with all the pumps and hoses and stuff around the engine per my previous posts in march or so.

Anyway- engine runs great.

so now.......

I noticed some transmission issues (the only thing I had done to the tran was to change the filter and fluid and clean up the pan)as she started having issues getting going.....basically I'd push on the gas...there would be a delay, and slowly the tran would engage, start slowly, but once up to say 30 mph, would work fine. Drove like 40 miles, parked, and fluid started gushing out. Appeared to be from the front seal or gasket of the transmission, just in front of that little black rubber plug thingy. Guess that's were the trans meets the transfercase? It spewed out quite a bit. I let her sit- as I had just gotten to work, then tried to nurse her home........back roads slowly at 30 mph or so to limit any shifting....got pretty close, but on another stop, then start, she didn't want to move, so I just eased her back on the side, and had her towed home.

Now- engine starts fine and runs, and I can shift the stick from P to D or anything else, but nothing engages or does anything. I'm guessing I have hardly any fluid left.

Called a few shops, and they basically tell me it's 1500-3000$ depending on what it is.

I've spend about $1500 on her in the last year fixing her up, and as much as I should just sell her for a grand to the ppl offerring me that, I would like to see this through. So the question is a two parter....the costs that the shops are quoting, how much of that is labor versus parts?

and the second part- is if I go about this myself- what do I plan on doing. I think it's safe to assume that actually pulling it out is fairly easy- I looked through the links on supermotors etc, and understand how to do it. After that- I'm just not sure. How would I know if I actually have to rebuild the whole thing? Is that easy, and just time consuming, and you have to carefully put things back in the right order? How easy is it to know what needs to be replaced.

Also, I found a couple of rebuild kits that i'm curious if that's what I need. Or- do I just go to Autozone?

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm about halfway down, the red eagle master rebuild kit for $476

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-E4OD-E40D-Transmission-Deluxe-Rebuild-Kit-1989-95-/170586573593?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b7c08b19 or something cheaper like this.

So that's where my mind is running. Do I dump the truck for a grand.

Pay someone 3 grand to fix it.

Or do it myself, and if so what's the cost. And is it just what that ebay kit for $190 looks like?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

If it is the pump seal; as Spectre said here awhile ago, "...Might as well replace your rear main seal on the engine while you're at it..."

Leak Check Test The following procedures should be used to determine the cause of the leakage before service is made. Remove the fluid level indicator (7A020) and note the color of the fluid. Original factory fill fluid is dyed red to aid in determining if leakage is from the engine or transmission. Unless a considerable amount of makeup fluid has been added or the fluid has been changed, the red color should assist in pinpointing the leak. Remove the converter housing cover. Clean off any fluid from the top and bottom of the converter housing, front of the transmission case, and rear face of the engine and pan. Clean the converter area by washing with suitable nonflammable solvent, and blow dry with compressed air. Wash out converter housing and the front of the flywheel. The converter housing may be washed out using clean solvent and a squirt-type oil can. Blow all washed areas dry with compressed air. Start and run the engine until the transmission reaches its normal operating temperature. Observe the back of the block and top of the converter housing for evidence of fluid leakage. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle. Run the engine at fast idle, then at engine idle, occasionally shifting to the drive and reverse ranges to increase pressure within the transmission. Observe the front of the flywheel, back of the block (in as far as possible), and inside the converter housing and front of the transmission case. Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined. When a converter drain plug leaks, remove drain plug. Install new drain plug. Tighten to 24-27 Nm (18-20 lb-ft). Leak Check Test with Black Light. Oil soluble aniline or fluorescent dyes premixed at the rate of 2.5ml (1/2 teaspoon) of dye powder to 0.24L (0.5 pint) of automatic transmission fluid have proven helpful in locating the source of fluid leakage. Such dyes may be used to determine whether an engine fluid or transmission fluid leak is present, or if the fluid in the transmission fluid cooler hose leaks into the engine coolant system. An ultraviolet light must be used to detect the fluorescent dye solution." READ MORE from 1996 Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Late 1-2 Upshift; "...Accumulator Body Problems; The small valve indicated in the picture above will wear the hole causing the small valve to stick partially open. When the valve would stick, it caused a late 1-2 upshift, you actually had to let up on the throttle for it to shift, then all of the other shifts were perfect. We spent hours checking the TPS Sensor, PCM..."

Source: by specialtytrans.com

I have some Rebuild Links in my site under:

Transmission

Automatic

E4OD

Such as:

Description & Operation, Identification Tag, Bushings, Bearings & ****** Washers Locator, Seals, Rings & Gaskets Locator, Parts Break-Out Diagram, MLPS/Transmission Range (TR) Sensor & Lamp Operation , Transmission Shift Patterns, Main Components & Functions, Electronic Control System, Diagnosis & Testing, In-Vehicle Service, R&R, Cleaning & Inspection, Specifications, & Special Service Tools/Equipment

Source: by Ford for a 96, but very similar

 

[CJGamer]

ok, I just read through that, and honestly it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.

I know where it's leaking from, because I already wiped everything down, then ran it, and it leaked right at the front of the trans.....I'm not sure if that's called the front seal, or whatever the area is called where the transmission meats the engine. Right there- a gasket or something it's leaking from.

I found this great writeup on removing the transmission

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48997

And then your site has a great writeup on an actual rebuild.

But I'm lost as to how to know what I need. Do I just need to pull the tranny, replace that gasket and see if that's it?

or must I rebuild....or something in between.

 

[koontreeguy]

look on crags list for a used one. you'll find one alot cheaper and in good enough shape. some people even part out trucks and you can even try the transmission out before you buy it (if the truck is drivable). i cooked my AOD last summer and did what I said previous and the rig runs fine still. btw make sure you buy a new torque converter!!

 

[miesk5]

ok, I just read through that, and honestly it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.

I know where it's leaking from, because I already wiped everything down, then ran it, and it leaked right at the front of the trans.....I'm not sure if that's called the front seal, or whatever the area is called where the transmission meats the engine. Right there- a gasket or something it's leaking from.

I found this great writeup on removing the transmission

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48997

And then your site has a great writeup on an actual rebuild.

But I'm lost as to how to know what I need. Do I just need to pull the tranny, replace that gasket and see if that's it?

or must I rebuild....or something in between.

yo,

OK, I gave you the Ford leak ck method because you initially wrote; " Appeared to be from the front seal or gasket of the transmission, just in front of that little black rubber plug thingy. Guess that's were the trans meets the transfercase?

So, you gave us two leak areas.

I'd pull TC and tranny/TC and replace the pump seals/gasket, Pan Gasket, Manual Control Lever Oil Seal, etc,

as shown in my other post shown above

and depending upon tools avail and time available; all seals, gaskets...and may as well do eng. rear main bearing.

All due to age issues.

and,

Transfer Case Fluid Level High & Low Transmission Fluid Level &/or Shift &/or Engagement Concerns TSB 97-12-13 for 87-96 Bronco & many others; "...transmission may have low fluid level and/or may have either a shift concern and/or an engagement concern. This may be caused by transmission fluid leaking from the transmission into the transfer case through the transfer case input seal. Replace the transfer case input seal..." read more Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com

combine this with:

"...Just an update, I used the part #F77Z-7B215-AA from the input shaft seal TSB and used it to cross reference new seals from a few different auto parts stores. All of them produced a seal same as the one I had, just different manufacturers. So far so good I used a paper gasket and some RTV at the intermediate tailhousing because mine had them there, a few people said I could get away with just some RTV, but it was only $6 so I sprung for the gasket. No leaks so far from the tailshaft or from the input seal, I will periodically check it over the next couple of months to make sure. One more piece of the puzzle done, next up is the fuel pump. Here is the original seal removed, I damaged it getting it out..." miesk5 Note, see his pics

Source: by slim724

=============

I'd use ONLY genuine Ford Parts for this job;

7C391 Gasket and Seal Kit Note: kit does not include 7D100 and 7C155 gaskets - must order gaskets seperate $343.03

go to local Dealer's Parts Dept and ask what this includes

Gasket And Seal Kit Short PN 7153, $104.55

Automatic Transmission - E4OD; MTK-K73900-A;Because the Ford parts site, http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1991&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#&&/wEXAQUHaGlzdG9yeQUEdHJ1ZbeJQwrDnn1brKWLK+LH7viyyDAr

go to local Dealer's Parts Dept and ask what this includes

Shows in addition to that;

Auto Trans Extension Housing Bushing Fedlon lining - 46.1mm O.D. $14.98

Front Fluid Pump Seal O-ring $10.33

Front Fluid Pump Seal 7A103 to 7902 $9.73

Auto Trans Separator Plate Gasket - To be used with original 1990-1993 valve body - Gasket not included in 7153 seal kit - See TSB 98-9-21 for important usage information $16.68

This TSB was replaced by Separator Plates & Separator Plate Gaskets Usage Chart TSB 98-16-8 for 89-96 Bronco & F 150 & many others Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com

ETC.

-- Lastly, Paul (thePUNISHER), who sells hi-po E4ODs, wrote elsewhere; "many trans shops just plain **** at putting an e4od together. now you have issues of shops blaming kit parts for problems when the whole time they were not installed properly..."

Personally, I'd take it to a shop that overhauls Police & Fire Dept trannies. and ask Dealer Service Manager for referral.