axle help

[Broncobill78]

A small amount of rust shouldn't cause any problems. The ring & pinion are large chunks of metal & the pinion depth, backlash and contact pattern won't be effected by the rust. Have they been sitting out with the covers off or something ? If so they may be candidates for a rebuild. Unless you want to rebuild them before using them all you can really do is clean & blow them out as best you can, fill them with gear oil and see how they do. The oil & gear action will take care of any surface rust that's accumulated on the exposed parts of the gears while they've been sitting. Significant rust is another story but the gears wounld need to have been submerged for some time for that to be an issue.

 

[oktogo]

i completly took apart both axxils they looken in great shape i will ne to buy a new ring and pinion for one of them because of the 355 and 409 i may buy a 410 for the 10.25 my current ratio in my truck is a 355 so it may help with power

I am going to start sanding them down to paint them today any tips or places i shudent sand they are bare housings now i know not to sand the inside

Also do you know any place that sells parts for that 72-75 d44 hd?

 

[oktogo]

i just bought a dana 44 hd it is a close knucle designe i would like to know is there any good ways to get parts for that thing and if so a link would be great?

right now i dont have alot of money but i would like to put some sort of diff in it besides a open one any pointers?

will i need to buy all new stearing for that axil or can i use some from my ttb i have now? one of the seals on left side of the carrige is messed up i will need a new one of those

 

[Broncobill78]

Take the time to give some thought to what you want for gears. This *isn't* a job you want to have redone next year if you decide you're unhappy with the gearset you choose. What size tires are you planning to run ? The 3.55's are good for 31's, 4.10's match up well with 33's, 4.56's should be used with 35'/36' tires, 4.88's for 37'/38' and 5.12's for 40'/42'/44'. You can certainly get by with gears that aren't optimal for your tire size but the engine will be out of it's powerband & feel sluggish while using more fuel. You'll be better off in the long run to bite the bullet & pony up for an extra set of gears plus installation in order to make sure you've got the best tire/gear combo.

As far as sanding them down goes, go nuts, have yourself a great time. Nothing like spending a wkend waving a sandblaster around to keep the kids away /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> (mine see anything that even *looks* like it's work & they''re gone for days) Be careful around bearing or sealing surfaces. It's ok to lightly sand the kingpin seats but don't go overboard.

For parts I'd just use a local dealer or large truck shop. Back in Massachusetts I used to have a shop nearby that worked exclusively on axles & driveshafts, look for someplace like that if you don't already know of or go to one. You can also try their website to either find a local deal or register with them & purchase parts online direct.

http://www.spicerparts.com/order.asp

 

[oktogo]

i have a c6 tho and i have 38in tires with a 355 and only run 2100rpm at 55 so a 410 would be a good choice right?

 

[Broncobill78]

No, see my previous post. For 38's what you really want is 4.88's. A 4.56 would be a compromise but since you have to buy them anyways might as well get the correct ratio. I can understand that having the 4.09's in there already it's tempting to just let it be at that but the final drive ratio is still not right. Not that there aren't plenty of guys out there doing the same thing but if you choose to go that way understand up front that you're giving up horsepower, torque & mileage as a result. If you're going to run 38's then 4.88 is the gear you should have with 4.56 being a minimum (and a compromise at that, the final ratio will still be off giving up performance & mileage)

Another alternative to consider is a planetary reduction kit for the transmission. You can change the gear ratio within the transmission which will change your final drive ratio. This is the best priced kit I know of:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.c...NTP-KC6GRP.html

It's worth considering if you're in the market for a tranny rebuild anyways but otherwise I'd bite the bullet & set both axles up with the correct ratio for the tires you're going to use. Just an opinion, take it for what it's worth /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

You might also want to check out this thread that's pinned in the Tech section, good info on this topic:

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12604

 

[oktogo]

ok my 10.25 has 3.55 gears now do i have to change the carrier to got to a 4.11?

with my old close knuckle d44 hd can i reuse any of my parts form my ttb like the brand new locking hubs i bought they have the same pattern as the d44 hd and the stearing how will it bolt up to my pitman arm will it bolt up no prob or do have to do some mods?

if i am pressed for cash do i have to buy the master overhaul kits for my axils because the bearings look good just one seal on the d44 hd is bad and one on the 10.25 can i just replace them and be fine?

also i am missing the short side axil on my d44 do u know a good place to get one? broncograveyard?

one more thing will it be easyer to just do a leaf sprung d44 or try to use the springs i dont know if the kit the broncograveyard sell is for mine i do have a guy that will do it for me over the summer and reuse the springs but i would like to have all the stuff the kit offers

 

[oktogo]

i also do not have any coil buckets can i use my old ones the axil is ment for leaf springs so how do i get coil buckets?

 

[Broncobill78]

Just out of curiosity, is there a reason you seem set on running the 4.11's ? Those are going to keep the engine pretty far out of it's powerband. 4.88's are what you want with 38's and a 4.56 would really be a minimum. With 38' tires it's almost not worth the expense of regearing from 3.55 to just 4.11

As far as reusing parts from the IFS axle, I have no idea. Here are copies of the D44IFS manual as well as the Spicer internal & external hub manuals for the hubs used on the various D44's. Also use the D44 manual I posted on the 14th. Read up on the hubs & compare info, photos, drawings & part #'s. Never having swapped in a closed knuckle D44HD I honestly have no idea if the steering will bolt right up or not. If anyone on *this* forum has done it they're sure keeping quiet about it /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> When I did my coil-sprung D60 swap I had to make a new, longer pitman arm to get the full range of steering that didn't bind anywhere.

I really have no idea if the Sterling needs a new carrier or not. I know the D60 uses one carrier for *up to* 4.11 and for 4.56 & higher you need a new carrier. You'll also have to figure out if you have a new or old 10.25 (93' or newer) because if it's older than 93' you'll need a new yoke if you replace the gears:

"Ford 10.25" and 10.50" can all use the 10.25" long pinion ('93 and later) Ring and Pinions. However, 1992 and older have a shorter pinion and different yoke. If you are installing a new ring & pinion in a 1992 and older 10.25 a new style yoke is required." (according to USA Standard Gear at any rate)

As for the master rebuild kit that's really a roll of the dice. Might work out just fine without one or it might not. You're really not going to know until you get them under the truck & running. How long have those things been sitting ? If I *really* wanted to know I'd probably put them up on jackstands & set-up a small gas or electric motor to spin the pinion for a few days & see if it leaked anywhere, but then again I enjoy doing silly $hit like that to aggravate my wife /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Check this page out for info on replacing your 10.25 seals:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/geti...l%20Replacement

I doubt Jeff's carries parts for a closed knuckle *anything* much less a D44HD but it wouldn't hurt to give them a shout or shoot them an Email. If you're looking for a supplier have you tried the Spicer Parts link I posted in this thread back on the 17th ?

A leaf spring swap will definitely be easier, but you lose a lot of ride comfort & axle articulation (at least *I* think so, everyone has their own opinion though). I've done both coil & leaf D60 swaps and I won't do another leaf. Even with the 460 the Bronco is just too light of a vehicle to need or effectively use front leafs (once again, simply *my* opinion, I'm sure plenty of guys with leaf sprung Bronco's are happy with them. I just wasn't one of them) The hardest part of a D60 straight axle (or any leaf sprung straight axle for that matter) swap is dealing with the radius arms. Most 80-96 swaps I've seen used the 73-79 F150/78-79 Bronco radius arms and welded the C-bushing horns onto the D60 axle tubes. Either that or they fabbed up a wristed radius arm & used that with the same C-bushing setup

D44_external_hub.pdf

D44_internal_hub.pdf

D44IFS_manual.pdf

 

[oktogo]

thx for all your help now all i got to do is get 1200$ for new gears <_<