Sloooowwwww rear window...help, please?

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CreigN

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In addition to the mechanical issues for the rear window, has anyone added relays to the rear window electrical system to take the load off of the dash switch?

A few years ago, I found this diagram on SuperMotors about adding relays to the rear window circuit.
www.supermotors.net/registry/media/692844

I'm thinking of doing the "Improved Circuit" so that both dash and tailgate switches work as normal but delivering power directly to the relays and avoiding the load on the dash switch.

1718646652221.png
 

johnnyreb

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Too bad they are side ways Could you re-load them UP RIGHT so we can see it better. Alot of us don,t have the computer knowledge to change it. Thank you.
 

CreigN

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Sorry about that. Should have done it correct orientation the first time.

And I've attached a PDF if you'd like to download it.

1718652885127.png
 

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  • Tailgate Wiring Mods.pdf
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lynchsg

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In addition to the mechanical issues for the rear window, has anyone added relays to the rear window electrical system to take the load off of the dash switch?

A few years ago, I found this diagram on SuperMotors about adding relays to the rear window circuit.
www.supermotors.net/registry/media/692844

I'm thinking of doing the "Improved Circuit" so that both dash and tailgate switches work as normal but delivering power directly to the relays and avoiding the load on the dash switch.

View attachment 32159
Good stuff. When I have done electrical troubleshooting on this tailgate system and applied power directly from the battery with a ground back to the battery, this window goes up and down so much quicker!
 
OP
OP
W

Wishmeluck

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In addition to the mechanical issues for the rear window, has anyone added relays to the rear window electrical system to take the load off of the dash switch?

A few years ago, I found this diagram on SuperMotors about adding relays to the rear window circuit.
www.supermotors.net/registry/media/692844

I'm thinking of doing the "Improved Circuit" so that both dash and tailgate switches work as normal but delivering power directly to the relays and avoiding the load on the dash switch.

View attachment 32159
I tried this when I thought the issue was weak switches but it didn't work for me. Apparently it depends on the generation your rig is as to what wiring schematic you use and whether or not it actually takes a load off the switch or not. My understanding is anything pre 86 all it does is help with power issues due to old decrepit wiring.
 

lynchsg

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I tried this when I thought the issue was weak switches but it didn't work for me. Apparently it depends on the generation your rig is as to what wiring schematic you use and whether or not it actually takes a load off the switch or not. My understanding is anything pre 86 all it does is help with power issues due to old decrepit wiring.
It also takes full amps off the switches, which tend to cook the terminals.
 

johnnyreb

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Maybe the wiring is too weak or switch. Maybe it is both. I think I,ll put both on and attach the switch on the bottom of the dash on a heavy duty brace. MAKE IT ALL HEAVY DUTY,.
 

lynchsg

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Don't get me wrong. I know the relay option requires a wiring loom modification. It just would be a cleaner type of change rather than the one or two odd wire.
 

johnnyreb

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Well IF THE WIRING,motor AND SWITCH WAS PERFECT AND IT HAS CLEAN PERFECT GROUND---and ---the rails should be looked at good . Because all that trouble--MIGHT AS WELL CHECK EVERYTHING WHILE YOU ARE AT IT.
 

Blueblooded

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84 Bronco....Rear window goes up and down painfully slow and stops partway in both directions. I can always pull/push it up/down the rest of they way by turning the t/g key.

It has a new motor, gears/tracks have been cleaned, lubed and it has new little glide thingys in the tracks too. The dash switch has been cleaned and the grounds behind the dash were all cleaned and renewed too.

Heres my conundrum:

- If I give it juice straight from a battery to the window motor on the window side of everything it shoots up and down great.

- If I hook wires up and give it juice so it works through t/g key ONLY the window will go up pretty well, but down is super slow and gets stuck about halfway.

- If I hook wires up and give it juice so it works the the dash switch ONLY the window goes up halfway and gets stuck, and goes down painfully slow.

I tested each scenario and get a full 12v when the switches are flipped to wherever power needs to go, and just to make double sure I even ran a dedicated 12v wire to the connectors and tried that too.

Since I was getting 12v everywhere, I thought maybe it was poor grounds. So, I also threaded the ground ***** hole in the drivers tail light area for a dedicated ground close by. One switch at a time nothing changed no matter the power/ground source combination.

Im trying to keep it as stock as possible and really dont want to admit that maybe after 40 years maybe the switches are just getting worn. Anyone have any suggestions I may have missed or overlooked aside from the switches themselves?
i used contact cleaner on the switch and silicone spray **** on the felt window channel and she is now working fine
 

8vettes

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84 Bronco....Rear window goes up and down painfully slow and stops partway in both directions. I can always pull/push it up/down the rest of they way by turning the t/g key.

It has a new motor, gears/tracks have been cleaned, lubed and it has new little glide thingys in the tracks too. The dash switch has been cleaned and the grounds behind the dash were all cleaned and renewed too.

Heres my conundrum:

- If I give it juice straight from a battery to the window motor on the window side of everything it shoots up and down great.

- If I hook wires up and give it juice so it works through t/g key ONLY the window will go up pretty well, but down is super slow and gets stuck about halfway.

- If I hook wires up and give it juice so it works the the dash switch ONLY the window goes up halfway and gets stuck, and goes down painfully slow.

I tested each scenario and get a full 12v when the switches are flipped to wherever power needs to go, and just to make double sure I even ran a dedicated 12v wire to the connectors and tried that too.

Since I was getting 12v everywhere, I thought maybe it was poor grounds. So, I also threaded the ground ***** hole in the drivers tail light area for a dedicated ground close by. One switch at a time nothing changed no matter the power/ground source combination.

Im trying to keep it as stock as possible and really dont want to admit that maybe after 40 years maybe the switches are just getting worn. Anyone have any suggestions I may have missed or overlooked aside from the switches themselves?
New motor or better yet if you have your old one just rebuild it
 

Whipsaw

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I don't think anyone mentioned this. The wires for the rear window run through the left side of the tail gate and flex each time the tailgate is dropped. This will fatigue the wires and the insulation, the wires can break, and/or with water intrusion result in the high level of resistance causing the slow-mo window. My window works fine from the key, but not from the dash switch. I do have broken insulation on the wires by the tailgate and suspect a bad wire in there, they're on the list of things to do.
 

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