Yo,
What caused the illumination issue?
R134a... hopefully there were no leaks.
Conversion in an 89; "...I have converted mine from R12 to R134a, and it cools the truck much faster. The first thing you need to do is replace ALL of your "O" rings. **** them with a small amount of Vasoline, USE NOTHING ELSE. Since it hasn't been used in a while, go ahead and replace the Expansion Valve, and the Reciever/Drier. You can pick all of these up at your local Autozone(the O rings come in an assortment pack, so get 3 packs to make sure you have what you need). Replace them now, it WILL save you money in the end. Then, you will need to go to an A/C service center to have your system Vaccumed out to a negative 3 lb's. This will clean out any R12 left in the system, and allow you to get enough R134A in there to cool properly. Most of the problems you hear about R134A, is because they didn't draw the system down to negative pressure. You will need to disconnect the harness that connects to your Reciever/Drier, and make a female to male spade jumper, to bypass the Low Refrigerant switch(you'll see what to do when you pull it), to get the compressor to come on. Install the adapters, and charge it up following the instructions. Don't forget to reconnect your Low Refrigerant switch when finished. Depending on your system type, you may need more refrigerant than the kit supplies. I had to add about a half extra can to get up to the proper pressure. You can get this kit at Walmart, and Autozone too. Why wait on shipping to save 50 cent ?..." by sweepersrgr8 @
http://broncozone.com/topic/1055-ac-conversion/
R134A Conversion in a 93 by Steve @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/21191/71804-4
To view narrative, under his name in upper left, click Select Alternate View; clicK Thumbnails + Captions.
For component info, see my site @ http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=84http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=84
...
ABS
Here is your 93 wiring diagram
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8624
What fuse is blowing?
This will be involved because I have no Ford information on this issue other than what I gave you.
Short Circuit Troubleshooting; "NOTE: Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when power is applied to the circuit under test. The test light can be damaged by outside power.
Isolate the circuit from power and ground.
Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground and probe any easy-to-reach point in the circuit.
If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.
To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit (the light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity).
Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or switches, remove parts, etc. until the light goes out or continuity is broken.
When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit components which were opened."
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/wiringproblems%206.html
What caused the illumination issue?
R134a... hopefully there were no leaks.
Conversion in an 89; "...I have converted mine from R12 to R134a, and it cools the truck much faster. The first thing you need to do is replace ALL of your "O" rings. **** them with a small amount of Vasoline, USE NOTHING ELSE. Since it hasn't been used in a while, go ahead and replace the Expansion Valve, and the Reciever/Drier. You can pick all of these up at your local Autozone(the O rings come in an assortment pack, so get 3 packs to make sure you have what you need). Replace them now, it WILL save you money in the end. Then, you will need to go to an A/C service center to have your system Vaccumed out to a negative 3 lb's. This will clean out any R12 left in the system, and allow you to get enough R134A in there to cool properly. Most of the problems you hear about R134A, is because they didn't draw the system down to negative pressure. You will need to disconnect the harness that connects to your Reciever/Drier, and make a female to male spade jumper, to bypass the Low Refrigerant switch(you'll see what to do when you pull it), to get the compressor to come on. Install the adapters, and charge it up following the instructions. Don't forget to reconnect your Low Refrigerant switch when finished. Depending on your system type, you may need more refrigerant than the kit supplies. I had to add about a half extra can to get up to the proper pressure. You can get this kit at Walmart, and Autozone too. Why wait on shipping to save 50 cent ?..." by sweepersrgr8 @
http://broncozone.com/topic/1055-ac-conversion/
R134A Conversion in a 93 by Steve @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/21191/71804-4
To view narrative, under his name in upper left, click Select Alternate View; clicK Thumbnails + Captions.
For component info, see my site @ http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=84http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=84
...
ABS
Here is your 93 wiring diagram
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8624
What fuse is blowing?
This will be involved because I have no Ford information on this issue other than what I gave you.
Short Circuit Troubleshooting; "NOTE: Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when power is applied to the circuit under test. The test light can be damaged by outside power.
Isolate the circuit from power and ground.
Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground and probe any easy-to-reach point in the circuit.
If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.
To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit (the light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity).
Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or switches, remove parts, etc. until the light goes out or continuity is broken.
When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit components which were opened."
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/wiringproblems%206.html
