1993 Bronco Wont Shift please help

[miesk5]

Yo,

I'll be here. We Never, Ever give up.

 

[Bmarlowe30]

still here bro ive been super busy. started going through this wiring harness now.

just an update don't quit on me

 

[miesk5]

Yo friend,

Will be here.

I can't even guess what is wrong in either harness, except to test each wire using the wiring diagrams.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=36301

Ignition

...

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8627

E4OD

...

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8641

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8642

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8643

Power Distribution

...

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8634

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8638

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8637

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8635

Grounds

...

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=36311

Transfer Case

...

 

[Bmarlowe30]

I still think you need to come fix this thing for me

I saw a 96 online for 3500 bucks. a daily driver with even working a/c if I had the cash I would have bought it lol

 

[Bmarlowe30]

I cant find which wires to jump for abs cause I don't have that plug

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Someone really did a hack job on it. But I and others here have heard of this happening over the years.

For the PSOM to work, the VSS Signal (2 wires) travels through connectors to and through the Control Module and then to the PSOM and then to the PCM to E4OD and cruise control. So someone jumpered the signal back to the two connectors on the firewall to get it to the PSOM, etc.

Look for connectors C202 & C205 @ driver side rear of engine compartment on firewall; here are their shapes:



...

See this one labeled "Dash to Engine Bay", it is disconnected.

Look to left of it for "Dash to Frame" ...

Inspect them for obvious hacked wires as well at the harnesses to both for hacked wires.

 

[Bmarlowe30]

ok

I finally found the exact engine harness I need with the abs and all. I jumped the wires and now it shifts and speedo works!!!!

Meisk5 you are a genius bro. You have no idea how much I appreciate your time and effort helping me out..

now where can I find the control module? I need a part number on it

 

[miesk5]

Yo Brian,

4WABS Control Module PN F37A-2C018-BB for 93 Bronco. ...NOT for 94-96 Bronco



Many used available on ebay, etc.

Google for F37A2C018BB

Apparently, some new available

http://www.rearcounter.com/F37A-2C018-BB-parts1373553.html

Recently Updated

Part Number: F37A2C018BB Seller: Collectors Auto Supply - V

Description: CORE CHARGE $40.00 Phone: Show Phone Number

Price: Request Pricing Email: Send Seller Email Inquiry

Quantity: 22

Location: Oroville, Washington Map & Directions

See phone number

http://www.collectorsautosupply.com

They have an e bay site, but I looked at just first page.

Hope your Dealership pal now knows that the 93 did come with 4wabs. I would like to know what database or information source they use there.

 

[Bmarlowe30]

Miesk5

  we need to hang out.. I need to soak up your knowledge. you are like my Bronco Yoda

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Lol...

We can hang out here and watch the same football games on Saturdays and Sundays!

Be well Brian!

 

[Bmarlowe30]

ok Miesk5 new problem

My ac control wont work. fuses are good and put power to the blower motor and it works. but nothing happens when I turn my switches

 

[miesk5]

Yo Brian,

I gave up on air conditioning work in 94 when I loaned my gauges and too,s to a family member who then left them all in his F150 overnight. Murphys Law worked.

OK, from what you described does the blower fan runs in all speeds?

Was outside ambient temperature with engine Cold above 50°F?

The A/C clutch can be shut off for several seconds:

At engine start-up.

At high engine speeds.

During heavy acceleration.

When the engine coolant temperature exceeds a predetermined temperature.

So this is by Ford in 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by FORD via http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:

OBD II in 96;

4WABS (93-96);

RABS (87-92);

Air Bag (94-96);

3 ***** Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);

R134a in 94-96;

2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;

Mass Air Flow in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s, other years used Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).

96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.

The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV.

Still researching other differences.

....

Best thing is to acquaint yourself with the AC system. Most common faults are refrigerant leaks, compressor clutch failure, compressor failure, A/C cycling switch failure, etc.

You will see this in pin point testing below.

GO to Section 12-00: Climate Control System, Service

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Pinpoint Tests

NOTE: Use Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent when performing electrical pinpoint tests.

The fastest way to find a condition is to work with the tools that are available, which means working with proven diagnosis charts and the proper special tools for the system being worked on.

Refer to the following charts for performance testing procedures.

***I chose Insufficient Cooling***

Possible Source;

Low refrigerant charge.

GO to Pinpoint Test C or Pinpoint Test G for specific condition

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc0021.htm#c

Have someone Start engine, BEWARE OF FAN, BELT, PULLEYS, ETC.

Watch compressors clutch as helper switches AC on and fan speed on.

Read more @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/m4113c.gif

The clutch is mounted on the front of the compressor.

A/C Compressor and A/C Clutch Assemblies

The FS-10 A/C compressor (19703) is used on all F-Series and Bronco vehicles.

An A/C clutch (2884) is energized when the A/C cycling switch (19E561), located on the suction accumulator/drier (19C836), closes. The closing of the A/C cycling switch completes the circuit to the A/C clutch and draws it into engagement with the compressor driveshaft.

When the A/C cycling switch is closed and the control ****/lever is set at MAX A/C, NORM A/C, or either of the settings calling for full or partial defroster operation, the A/C compressor will be operating. (A/C compressor operation during defrost is provided to minimize humidity in the passenger compartment.) The A/C compressor is mounted on the side of the engine and is driven by a drive belt (8620) . Tension adjustment is obtained by means of an automatic tensioner (gasoline engines)

A/C Cycling Switch

As described previously under AC Compressor and A/C Clutch Assemblies, the A/C cycling switch (19E561) is mounted on a Schrader valve on the accumulator/drier assembly. A valve depressor, located inside the threaded end of the A/C cycling switch, depresses the Schrader valve stem as the switch is mounted and allows the suction pressure inside the accumulator/drier housing to control the operation. The electrical contacts are normally open when the suction pressure is at or below 152 kPa (22 psi); they will close when the suction pressure rises to approximately 276-317 kPa (40-47 psi) or above. Lower ambient temperatures (below 10°C or 50°F), during cold weather seasons, will also open the contacts due to the pressure/temperature relationship of the refrigerant in the system. The electrical contacts control the circuit to the A/C clutch field coil (2987). When the contacts are closed, the A/C clutch field coil is energized and the A/C clutch (2884) is engaged to drive the A/C compressor (19703). When the contacts are open, the A/C clutch field coil is de-energized, the A/C clutch is disengaged and the compressor does not operate. The A/C cycling switch, when functioning properly, will control the pressure in the A/C evaporator core (19860) at a point where the plate/fin surface temperature will be maintained slightly above freezing, which prevents icing and the blockage of airflow.

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/m5032b.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 — Outlet to Compressor

***2 19C836 Suction Accumulator/Drier***

3 — To Suction Accumulator/Drier

4 — From Condenser

5 19860 A/C Evaporator Core

"A/C cycling switch is located on the accumulator. This is also called the receiver/dryer. It is a cylinder, black or aluminum, mounted just ahead of the evaporator/blower assembly. The switch is threaded onto a port on the side of the accumulator. Here is a tiny photo of the general area you will be looking at:

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/accumulator.jpg

It is normal for the clutch to cycle on and off. That is the reason why the clutch cycle switch has a window of operation between ~24-45 PSI. In very hot/humid conditions the clutch will stay engaged for long periods of time.

There should be a two wire plug attached to the switch. Unplug the connector, use a jumper wire to short the two pins together. Start the truck, turn on the A/C, verify if the clutch engages. If it does, then it a bad switch or extremely low charge of refrigerant that is causing your problem. The low pressure/clutch cycling switch is closed between ~24 and 45 PSI.

If it does not work then it is another electrical problem further upstream. Your A/C should also have a high pressure switch. It should be attached to the line between the compressor and condenser, that would also prevent the clutch from engaging. The high pressure switch is supposed to open at ~400PSI.

A manifold gauge set measures high and low side pressure. That will tell you what the whole story is. Only measuring one side or the other leaves a lot of speculation." by rla2005

...

Also read http://www.freeautomechanic.com/airconditioning.html

..

 

[Bmarlowe30]

no the blower only runs on high and it a brand new motor now. but you can feel it coming into the cab at all. not vent or floor or defrost

 

[Bmarlowe30]

where is this located or do I even have this

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

For high speed blower action only, look @ heater's motor housing on pass side under hood for the resistor assembly.

http://www.rockauto.com/info/48/4C2Z19A706BA-BAC.jpg

"..First remove your blower motor, you'll need a 5/16 socket to loosen the four screws, and it will easily pop out.

Once the blower is out of the way, you'll be able to scoop/vacuum out all the debris. Reach your arm all the way down the inner fender to get all the crap out, just try to get your hand in every nook and cranny the leaves could've got into.

This is all the crap that came out of mine, more than I ever imagined was in there.

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/foxbodyordeath/media/fsb2.jpg.html

Next, use your 5/16 to remove the resister (The red thing) so you can clean it real good

Re-install the resister, and hook the two plugs back in.

Re-install the blower motor and your done! Since I bought this truck the a/c and heat barely came out the vents, now it blows good and strong.

Now pour yourself a glass of wine that you bought with all the money you saved by not burning your rig to the ground..." by STUPID.

....

&

h

Here is jeremy's pic, the blower is right behind the yellow wire





his shows "where leaves build up in 80-96 ductwork. If they build up around the resistors (green), the entire truck can catch fire if the motor (yellow) is NOT at full speed all the time."

..



"When I pulled the old one, I saw why it had overheated - a squirrel nest in the squirrel cage. Part of the blower was chewed away, causing it to vibrate, and the motor itself didn't spin freely. Penetrating oil followed by engine oil in the blower motor's bearings seems to have fixed the motor, but I'll have to replace the squirrel cage, and wash out the evaporator core when I convert to R-134a."

Blower Motor Siemens PM249; Motorcraft MM527; Visteon 100066

Blower Motor Connector Motorcraft WPT041

Blower Wheel Motorcraft MM1071

Blower Motor Resistor Motorcraft YH1698; Wells JA1176; Standard RU-318; BWD RU1013; Dorman 973-011 (973-412 with pigtail)

Blower Resistor Connector Dorman 973-307; Standard Motor Products RU318; ACDelco 15-80675

@ NAPA, Advance Auto, etc.

...

Removal & Installation in 92 through 96; from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual; "...Removal: Pry the wire connector from the heater blower motor switch resistor (18591). Remove the two screws that attach the heater blower motor switch resistor to the heater plenum chamber case (18A484). Installation: Follow removal procedures in reverse order. Check operation in all blower speeds..."

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/m4394a.gif

...

"Blower Motor Control

Three of four operating speeds (LOW, MEDIUM LOW and MEDIUM HIGH) are controlled by a heater blower motor switch resistor connected in series with three of the operating positions and the ground. The MEDIUM LOW and MEDIUM HIGH positions on the heater control are identified by dots on the control.

With the heater blower motor switch in its LOW position, current flow in the ground circuit passes through three of the coils in the heater blower motor switch resistor. In MEDIUM LOW, current flows through two coils. In MEDIUM HIGH, current flows through one coil. In HIGH, current flow in the motor ground circuit bypasses the heater blower motor switch resistor to provide maximum speed." by Ford

 

[Bmarlowe30]

ok two more Meisk5

Got my abs all hooked up and everytime I hit the brake pedal it blows the abs fuse instantly?

also I cant get my dash light to illuminate. allthe lights work except the other lights in the dash work except the illuminators.

I changed the switch and the plug. I changed instrument clusters. the fuse is good I checked power to the fuse box and its good. I checked continuity through the illuminator wire to the fuse box and its good. I'm lost again

 

[miesk5]

Yo Brian,

If it is fuse 13;

Fuse 13 Blown, Stop & Hazard Lamps, Stop Sensor for Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Speed Control & PCM Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; wire harness may be pinched/shorted on steering column support behind the dash where the 14401 wire assy may come in contact w/a sharp edge on dash panel wall, I had same short here too & caused E4OD's TCIL (OD switch-LED) to blink like a friggin pia; wires pinched @ brake/tail lights, my 96's stop/turn/tail lights wires were almost cut in half on passenger side against 1/4 panel (inner); wires pinched @ high mount brake light & @ driver's left hand seat belt anchor bolt @ base of B Pillar. See the location diagram



...

Also check wiring to brake switch at pedal and inside rear lamp assembly.. our 96s harness was installed with no slack and shorted on the sharp 1/4 panel edge.

...

What dash light?

The gauges? If so, see this wiring diagram...

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=36302

2 fuses to check, #10 & #4

Has the headlight switch been acting crunchy when turning to dim the gauge lights? It may be getting hot.

Switch Fires, Part Number SW-2103: "...Over the past two years, this office has experienced fires caused by another potential problem in Ford vehicles. The problem exists within the dimmer portion of the headlight switch in Ford vehicles. The light switch involved is a Model SW-2103. These are the pull out type headlight switches usually located in the lower left corner of the front dash of Ford vehicles. The headlight portion of the switch has two pullout positions, the first for parking lights only, and fully out for headlights and parking lights. The shaft of this pull-out light switch can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise which activates a dimmer switch, lowering and raising the intensity of the lighting in the instrument panels respectively. Fully rotating the shaft counterclockwise past a notch activates the interior lights within the vehicles. The potential problem exists within the dimmer portion of this switch. The dimmer mechanism consists of a metallic resistive coil set inside a ceramic disc positioned over the shaft of the switch. The coil is exposed on its front side away from the passenger compartment. The front side of the coil passes across a contact permitting a current to flow through a certain portion of the coil when the switch is pulled our in its first or second positions. The greater amount of coil through which the current is permitted to pass (clockwise most position) creates the greatest resistance and therefore dims the dash lighting to its lowest intensity. The opposite position provides greatest intensity. Through our investigations, we have found that the coil can fail owing to wear and/or possible material defects or damage. A fractured coil can maneuver itself free of the ceramic disc permitting it to come in contact with the metal bracket which mounts and grounds the switch to the vehicle. When this occurs, a current can flow through a portion of the coil creating high temperatures melting the metal material of the coil and possibly igniting surrounding combustibles. This mechanism has been observed in three separate incidents by this office. Two of these resulted in a fire. The mechanism is precipitated by wear and/or defect in the coil mechanism. If the former is true, we expect there will be an increase in fires caused through this mechanism given an increase in service time. To this date the problem appears to be somewhat limited. However, this particular light switch has been utilized in numerous Ford vehicles. Therefore, a small increase in failure rate owing to age and wear could result in a significant increase in fire losses. The SW-2103 Light Switch Assembly discussed above is reportedly installed in the following Ford vehicles: 1986 -1997 F100, F150, F300; 1990-1994 Explorer; 1987-1994 Ranger; 1987-1990 Bronco II; 1992-1997 Aerostar..." Miesk5 NOTE: No Bronco Listed, but this may be the result of typos or incomplete research by the company.

 

[Bmarlowe30]

yea the lights that illuminate the gauges. all the other lights in the cluster work just not the illuminate specific lights

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

I should have asked if radio illumination, ashtray illumination, a/c/heater control panel illumination turn on and can be brightened or dimmed by headlight switch.. if they do, then both fuses, headlight switch, and ground are good.

Ground G201 Location pic in a 92 inside driver kick panel; it serves:

instrument cluster illumination,

cigar lighter illumination

ashtray illumination,

a/c/heater control panel illumination

etc.

by BeastBronk at http://s69.photobucket.com/user/jprix82/media/GEDC0025.jpg.html

Ok,found the pin point test!

PINPOINT TEST C: INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ILLUMINATION INOPERATIVE

C1 CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE SUPPLY

Pull headlamp switch into PARK position.

Rotate headlamp switch **** and shaft fully clockwise without turning on courtesy lamps.

Measure voltage with Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent Circuit 19 (LB/R) at IP fuse panel.

Is battery voltage present?

Yes TURN headlamp switch to OFF position. GO to C3.

No GO to C2.

C2 MEASURE VOLTAGE

Measure voltage at feed side of instrument panel fuse.

Is battery voltage present?

Yes Replace fuse. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

No SERVICE open or ground short in IP fuse panel battery feed. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

C3 CHECK CIRCUIT 19 (LB/R)

Disconnect instrument cluster connector C1.

Instrument Cluster Connector C1

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/k20271c.gif

Pin Number Circuit Circuit Function

1 904 (LG/R) Charge Indicator Lamp

2 932 (GY/W) High Beam Indicator Lamp Feed

12 (LG/BK) High Beam Indicator*

3 57 (BK) Ground

4 450 (DG/LG) Seat Belt Warning Indicator Lamp Feed

5 29 (Y/W) Fuel Level Input (with Tachometer)

6 19 (LB/R) Instrument Cluster Illumination Input

7 57 (BK) Ground

8 2 (W/LB) Front Turn Signal Lamp (RH)

9 648 (W/PK) Tachometer Input Signal

11 (T/Y) Tachometer Input Signal*

10 398 (BK/Y) Tachometer Ground (Eight-Cylinder Gasoline Only)

57 (BK) Tachometer Ground*

11 784 (LB/BK) Low Range Indicator Input

— Not Used*

12 210 (LB) 4x4 Indicator Lamp to Switch

608 (BK/Y) Door Ajar Input*

13 640 (R/Y) Power (Hot in START or RUN)

14 16 (R/LG) Charge Indicator Input

* Motorhome only.

Connector Location, Behind Instrument Panel Diagram in a 96, Page 1

Source: by Ford via Chilton @ http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_147766118972915&key=6ed47b392b9edfe394b9e89b72717104&libId=iutta9jx01000bgv000MAbucq1dik&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullsizebronco.com%2Fforum%2F2757024-post4.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fcontent.chiltonsonline.com%2Fcontent%2Fimages%2FWD%2FFord%2F172%2FWD_Ford_172137.pdf&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=Ford%20Bronco%20Forum%20-%20View%20Single%20Post%20-%20Radio%20Issues!&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fcontent.chiltonsonline.com%2Fco...ord_172137.pdf

Check resistance of Circuit 19 (LB/R) with Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent between instrument cluster connector C1 and instrument panel fuse.

Is continuity present?

Yes GO to C4.

No SERVICE open in Circuit 19 (LB/R). RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. See wiring diagram in my previous reply.

C4 CHECK INSTRUMENT CLUSTER GROUND

Disconnect instrument cluster connector C1.

Test continuity to ground at Circuit 57 (BK) at connector C1.

Is continuity OK?

Yes REPLACE instrument cluster printed circuit. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

No REPAIR open in Circuit 57 (BK). RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

Inspect that ground. Some mid-years changes had the individual components' illumination (named above) ground wires attached at splices 202 and 202 in the harness and just one wire at that location, as shown in the pic. While others had individual ground wires attached to that *****.

Splices in harness for G201.. look for a previous owners harness hack job...such as loose harness wrapping, etc.

..

Instrument Cluster & Bezel in 92-96

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/760981

by Stephen

Headlight switch **** removal pic

http://s378.photobucket.com/user/nettemoody/media/bronco/P1010011.jpg.html by jowens

 

[Bmarlowe30]

ok that got my illumination working.

but when I hit my breaks it blows my abs fuse. thought I had it fixed but I guess not. any help there?

also the 93 used R12 Freon. is there an R134 conversion kit I can buy?