I have a 95 bronco. The key switch in the rear tailgate stopped working. The inside dashboard switch still works and allows me to put the window down and back up. I checked the fuse and then changed the rear switch in the tailgate out with another one but it still doesn't work. Not sure where to go from here any ideas????
Rear window key switch not working
- Thread starter obxlight
- Start date
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Rons beast
Active member
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Hey Obxlight, Welcome.
If you have power into the tailgate switch through the Blk/wht wires,( they should be hot at all times.) and don't get power out through the red/yel, and yel/red wires for the up and down functions, the only problem can be the switch itself. Did you replace it with a new switch, or something used?
If you have power into the tailgate switch through the Blk/wht wires,( they should be hot at all times.) and don't get power out through the red/yel, and yel/red wires for the up and down functions, the only problem can be the switch itself. Did you replace it with a new switch, or something used?
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yo Obxlight,
Welcome!
95 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual by Ford
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSSJ/~MUS~LEN/20/SSJMAIN.HTM
95 Tailgate Wiring by Ford
also fyi
PINPOINT TEST C: TAILGATE WINDOW INOPERATIVE
see C14 and on;
CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO TAILGATE POWER WINDOW SWITCH
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSSJ/~MUS~LEN/20/SSJ1B012.HTM
miesk5 note; Ground for the TG Window motor is at G201 Behind bottom of LH kick panel
Switch, Key Troubleshooting; miesk5 NOTE; Check for broken/corroded wiring at various conenctors; usually inside driver's side tail light lens or where it enters TG below lens.. etc. ; Bronco Journal October 13th, 2002. Work Project: Tailgate Key Switch Repair Journal Entry #8. "...It was time to get down and dirty and figure out why my tailgate KEY switch did not operate the window. This is the journal entry that outlines the test procedures used to isolate the problem. Schematic the wiring & connection first. The first order of the day was to draw out the schematic for the wiring. The Haynes repair manual has it in the back pages - which I redrew for this journal. Each position (left/right) represents the UP/DOWN operation of the tailgate window. Next, it would be good to know where all the wiring runs and where the connectors are. The Haynes manual does not have this information, so one must accumulate this data by themselves. Since I was successful in repairing the KEY SW operation, I was able to get the basic layout of the wiring harness (as it pertains to the pw) in the Bronco. As such: One important thing to note here, is that the power supplies are fed from 2 different points. The dash switch 12 volt feed is from the ignition on/off power source - and feeds into the switch via a separate 30A breaker in the fuse panel from the key switch assembly, which gets its source from an UN-SWITCHED source. It is fed from another 30A breaker in the fuse panel. The Test Procedures & Results, Equipment used: Power supply - capable of 11A, Various jumpers with spade lugs (f/m), jumper wire (alligator clips), Techtronix DMM, various tools. In doing the following, I had the tailgate in down position - the latch switch (driver's side of tailgate) must be manually closed. Initial tests included: running the motor - bypassing all wiring and harnesses - directly fed to motor - both polarity options - to test the motor for smooth operation. Test revealed motor has been installed and operating correctly. Test the ground paths at the connector 2 point. Break the connector (behind taillight - see diagram above) and take an resistance (OHM) reading at each ground point to chassis ground. Should be close to zero ohms. results: both appear good. Note: The connector has 3 points - 2 grounds that run to the dash switch (see schematic above) and the 12 volt un-switched source (black/white) that goes to the key switch. Monitor the 12 Volts on the 12V (blk/wht) point for "drop-out" - results: The 12V disappears when the KEY switch is operated. Conclusion - bad current path. Jumper wire the harness - run a wire from the breaker (fuse) point (12V) to the input connector to the tailgate - key switch. Results - key switch works the window fine now. This was done to verify that the problem exists in the wiring harness. Inspect harness run from taillight to under vehicle. Result: found TRAILER harness SPLICE-IN kit installed. removed trailer harness - found corroded 12V connector in FORD harness plug. Cleaned and removed broken pin. This is connector 2 as shown in diagram above. Installed sealing non-conductive grease and plugged in all connectors - this included an inspection of the RIGHT taillight connector while I was there. Fortunately, my truck had a 3 inch body lift and I only had to remove the rear valance to gain access to the harness and the connectors. Test the tailgate with KEY. Result: Fully operational. PARTS LIST - I think eventually I will store a complete parts list on the website - but for now, here are some basic parts for the tailgate assembly: Rear Window Motor: OEM # E9TB 14553 AA; Rear Window Wire Harness c/w switches: OEM# E8TB 14046 AF; Rear Window Corner Seals: OEM# E7TB 9841616 AA; Tailgate OEM# E8TZ 984070 0A..."
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at rfr.htmlplanet.com via web.archive.org http://web.archive.org/web/20040224151438/http://rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page08.html
Welcome!
95 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual by Ford
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSSJ/~MUS~LEN/20/SSJMAIN.HTM
95 Tailgate Wiring by Ford
also fyi
- Tailgate Window Inoperative
- Supply open or shorted.
- Ground open.
- Window switch inoperative.
- Circuits open or shorted.
- Window electric drive inoperative.
- GO to Pinpoint Test C .
PINPOINT TEST C: TAILGATE WINDOW INOPERATIVE
see C14 and on;
CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO TAILGATE POWER WINDOW SWITCH
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSSJ/~MUS~LEN/20/SSJ1B012.HTM
miesk5 note; Ground for the TG Window motor is at G201 Behind bottom of LH kick panel
Switch, Key Troubleshooting; miesk5 NOTE; Check for broken/corroded wiring at various conenctors; usually inside driver's side tail light lens or where it enters TG below lens.. etc. ; Bronco Journal October 13th, 2002. Work Project: Tailgate Key Switch Repair Journal Entry #8. "...It was time to get down and dirty and figure out why my tailgate KEY switch did not operate the window. This is the journal entry that outlines the test procedures used to isolate the problem. Schematic the wiring & connection first. The first order of the day was to draw out the schematic for the wiring. The Haynes repair manual has it in the back pages - which I redrew for this journal. Each position (left/right) represents the UP/DOWN operation of the tailgate window. Next, it would be good to know where all the wiring runs and where the connectors are. The Haynes manual does not have this information, so one must accumulate this data by themselves. Since I was successful in repairing the KEY SW operation, I was able to get the basic layout of the wiring harness (as it pertains to the pw) in the Bronco. As such: One important thing to note here, is that the power supplies are fed from 2 different points. The dash switch 12 volt feed is from the ignition on/off power source - and feeds into the switch via a separate 30A breaker in the fuse panel from the key switch assembly, which gets its source from an UN-SWITCHED source. It is fed from another 30A breaker in the fuse panel. The Test Procedures & Results, Equipment used: Power supply - capable of 11A, Various jumpers with spade lugs (f/m), jumper wire (alligator clips), Techtronix DMM, various tools. In doing the following, I had the tailgate in down position - the latch switch (driver's side of tailgate) must be manually closed. Initial tests included: running the motor - bypassing all wiring and harnesses - directly fed to motor - both polarity options - to test the motor for smooth operation. Test revealed motor has been installed and operating correctly. Test the ground paths at the connector 2 point. Break the connector (behind taillight - see diagram above) and take an resistance (OHM) reading at each ground point to chassis ground. Should be close to zero ohms. results: both appear good. Note: The connector has 3 points - 2 grounds that run to the dash switch (see schematic above) and the 12 volt un-switched source (black/white) that goes to the key switch. Monitor the 12 Volts on the 12V (blk/wht) point for "drop-out" - results: The 12V disappears when the KEY switch is operated. Conclusion - bad current path. Jumper wire the harness - run a wire from the breaker (fuse) point (12V) to the input connector to the tailgate - key switch. Results - key switch works the window fine now. This was done to verify that the problem exists in the wiring harness. Inspect harness run from taillight to under vehicle. Result: found TRAILER harness SPLICE-IN kit installed. removed trailer harness - found corroded 12V connector in FORD harness plug. Cleaned and removed broken pin. This is connector 2 as shown in diagram above. Installed sealing non-conductive grease and plugged in all connectors - this included an inspection of the RIGHT taillight connector while I was there. Fortunately, my truck had a 3 inch body lift and I only had to remove the rear valance to gain access to the harness and the connectors. Test the tailgate with KEY. Result: Fully operational. PARTS LIST - I think eventually I will store a complete parts list on the website - but for now, here are some basic parts for the tailgate assembly: Rear Window Motor: OEM # E9TB 14553 AA; Rear Window Wire Harness c/w switches: OEM# E8TB 14046 AF; Rear Window Corner Seals: OEM# E7TB 9841616 AA; Tailgate OEM# E8TZ 984070 0A..."
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at rfr.htmlplanet.com via web.archive.org http://web.archive.org/web/20040224151438/http://rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page08.html
Seabronc
New member
As you can see from the diagram, the only possible problem is failing to 12V at the Black/White wire. Either the fuse or one of the connections is failing. More likely the fuse. Note: there are 2 fuses, one for the front dash switch and one for the tail gate switch.
Good luck,
>-
Good luck,
>-Megabronco91
New member
Hey,
Just seeing that you have the same problem as i have with my 91 fullsize, i was wandering where did you get the key switch in the tailgate from i have looked to my full extent and just found this site any help for the switch would be great thanks.
Just seeing that you have the same problem as i have with my 91 fullsize, i was wandering where did you get the key switch in the tailgate from i have looked to my full extent and just found this site any help for the switch would be great thanks.
