Ignition problem.

HEI- 5.0 Driving down the road, felt like the key was turned off. No spark at the distributor, replaced ignition module at the distributor, still no spark. Where do I go next ? Coil ? how do I check for a bad coil ? ( engine cranks and you hear all the relays energize, EFI motor) Any thoughts or comments would be great.

Thank you.

With the key in RUN, check for 12V on the wire, that is color coded white with light blue stripe, at the ignition module.

If there is no 12V then check the fusible link in that line, it should blue in color.

Attached are some diagrams from an 85 EFI which should be the same as the 86. They should give you a little better idea of what is involved with the ignition control. Not having an EFI, I can't remember if the module you replaced included the pick up coil that the reluctor in the distributor uses to trigger the coil with. If it does not, then the pickup is a high suspect since it is the cause of the same problem in the DURASPARK II system.

You may also have some codes that will point to the problem.

Good luck,

Thanks for your reply. I replaced the pick-up module,I called it the ignition module. Thought they were the same, sorry. The diagrams will help in chasing wires. I should have pulled codes but haven't yet. I'll keep you posted and thanks again.

OK. Here is my update. I pulled the plug from the ignition pick-up/ PIP and checked the voltage on the white and blue wire (positive side of the coil going to the dzz). The voltage is 11.6 and I still have no spark at the dzz. Is that an indicator of a faulty PIP ? I still haven't pulled codes yet, left my test light on the boat.

 

Side note..... I have a strong suspicion that my internal voltage regulator is bad on the alt. The needle on the voltage gauge has been pulsing for a while. The pulsing will get faster and slower with the RPMs. I have a new ALT in the box, just haven't put it on yet. The reason for the side note is I do not think the ALT has anything to do with the no spark problem. As I stated before, I don't like electrical problems and my thinking could be wrong, hence my call for HELP. Thanks again for any input. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

oh cool, iv'e been upgraded to duct tape !

rust bucket 86 said:

OK. Here is my update. I pulled the plug from the ignition pick-up/ PIP and checked the voltage on the white and blue wire (positive side of the coil going to the dzz). The voltage is 11.6 and I still have no spark at the dzz. Is that an indicator of a faulty PIP ? I still haven't pulled codes yet, left my test light on the boat.

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I'm not sure how sensitive that module is to low voltage, but 11.6 is definitely a little low, especially compared to what it would be if the regulator was OK. Does the engine crank OK. 11.6 at the battery is a nearly dead battery. I should have had you check the red with light blue striped wire at the ignition module. It also should be around 12 volts.

 

Side note..... I have a strong suspicion that my internal voltage regulator is bad on the alt. The needle on the voltage gauge has been pulsing for a while. The pulsing will get faster and slower with the RPMs. I have a new ALT in the box, just haven't put it on yet. The reason for the side note is I do not think the ALT has anything to do with the no spark problem. As I stated before, I don't like electrical problems and my thinking could be wrong, hence my call for HELP. Thanks again for any input. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

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It does look like the regulator is bad based on what you say. You could just replace the regulator. If you are replacing the alternator, you should consider a higher current one, especially if you have or are planning on adding new electrical loads that were not originally on the truck. You could drop in a 130 amp 3G alternator, which should handle most added loads unless you went to some extreme stuff like, "blow your ears out" stereo equipment and a ton of extra lights.

Thanks for the come-back. The red and lt blue wire reads at best 4.70 volts at the plug at the module with the key on. The wiring diag. says it goes to the starting system. I believe it is the small wire on the center post (small post) of the starter solenoid. ( this is my quess, same color) When I pull it off the starter soloniod it reads 0.0 volts at the plug at the module. If I'm getting off course, please reel me back in. The engine cranks fine, yes the battery was low, and now thw white and LT blue wire reads 12.4 volts now that the battery is charged. I tried starting fluid before I used this forum, and it still wouldn't fire. I would start to pull my hair out but being over 50 there's not much left to pull. You did say it sounds like my voltage regulator is going.... any relation to the no spark ? Thanks again for the help and please keep it coming.

:wacko:

reading some of your quotes.... I do not want to be a parts replacer, and I didn.t understand what you think you said !

)

rust bucket 86 said:

The red and lt blue wire reads at best 4.70 volts at the plug at the module with the key on.

The engine cranks fine, yes the battery was low, and now thw white and LT blue wire reads 12.4 volts now that the battery is charged.

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I looked at the diagrams that seabronc so graciously provided. The Red/LT Blue wire should be battery voltage and now that it has been charged should be 12.5 volts (or there about) do you still have 4.6 volts?

IF so, then you need to track back to the fender mounted starter solinoid to find out where you have a poor connection. FWIW, it may be within the NSS.

Thanks broncojoe19. Yes seabronc was very gracious in providing me valuable diagrams. The diagrams are helping me to chase down the problem.The red and LT blue wire does go to the starter solenoid and the neutral safety switch. Yes, the battery is now fully charged and the wire is only reading 4.6 volts. I know it should be reading 12 volts. The neutral safety switch only alows the engine to turn over with the trans in park or neutral.The switch has nothing to do with spark to the dzz. If the engine turns over , I rule out the switch. Once again I will say I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. What my thinking is telling me ( my gut says it's not bad ) is that the solenoid is bad (even though I can jump the starter with it). Is that why I do not have 12v at the wire ? I'm going to try to put a jumper wire to the module in place of the red and LT blue wire and see if it will start. The reason for my thorough post is that I do not want to do anything damaging. Believe me when I say I appreciate everyones help. Thanks again.

Update- put 12v to the red and LT blue wire at the starter solenoid side feeding the pip- still no spark at the dzz. All the wires on the PIP go to the EEC- except the white and LT blue, goes to ign coil,ALT and the EEC. The dark green and yellow, which is the tach, and the red and LT blue wire which comes from the starter solenoid. Thinking out loud- if the red and LT blue wire and the white and LT blue wire read 12v at the PIP connector and there is no spark at the coil wire at the dzz my quess is it has to be the coil that is bad. If my thinking is incorrect please let me know. I live in a suburb of philadelphia( please no Eagles comments) and it's snowing here and I'm working in my driveway. Once again thanks for all the help.

Howto check a bronco ignition coil.

http://www.fordforum...ition-coil.html

 

Could it be a bad coil? Sure. On the other hand, What causes the high voltage spark is momentary grounding of the coil thus collapsing the field. I don't know the specifics off hand, but a bad ground could also be a cause of no spark.

Broncojoe19. Just got the info for the coil check- I'll update asap. Thanks again.

Just a quick note, the red with light blue stripe wire should only be 12V when the key is in the START position.

rust bucket 86 said:

Thanks for the come-back. The red and lt blue wire reads at best 4.70 volts at the plug at the module with the key on. The wiring diag. says it goes to the starting system. I believe it is the small wire on the center post (small post) of the starter solenoid. ( this is my quess, same color) When I pull it off the starter soloniod it reads 0.0 volts at the plug at the module. If I'm getting off course, please reel me back in. The engine cranks fine, yes the battery was low, and now thw white and LT blue wire reads 12.4 volts now that the battery is charged. I tried starting fluid before I used this forum, and it still wouldn't fire. I would start to pull my hair out but being over 50 there's not much left to pull. You did say it sounds like my voltage regulator is going.... any relation to the no spark ? Thanks again for the help and please keep it coming.

:wacko:

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The voltage regulator is not part of your starting problem. Until the engine is running, the alternator does not come into play and then only in regard to topping off your battery and supplying the electrical demands of the engine and equipment. Until it starts, the battery is supplying the demands. As far as no spark, then a simple test is pull the coil wire and see what kind of arc you get to a grounded spot, like the block. If no arc, it is probably the TFI module or the coil. Can you post a picture of the distributor? I'd like to confirm, in my mind, what kind of ignition system is on it. Also a picture of the inside of your distributor with the rotor off.

/ Update---- Yup, you guessed it, it's fixed. It turns out it was the coil. I'm sorry it took so long to diagnose and fix, my wife had / has the flu and we had snow here Saturday. I am greatful for all the help and diagrams, without them I wouldn't have been able to figure it out. It's alot of fun replacing a coil when you have AC and power steering. Seabronc, I gave some mixed info. My ignition is a TFI-IV and I had replaced the TFI module not the PIP as I stated before. Thanks to the help I now know more about my ignition system than I care to. I think we are on intimate terms. I still have to throw in my new/remaned ALT but she has spark and starts up ! Thanks to all for your help !!!