three choices

[Broncoboy07]

I'm back! I have made my desicion that I want the Bronco instead of the sebring and the sebring will be sold in the spring. The only problem is that my bronco was sold! I looked around and found three interesting broncos. One is a 96, one's a 95, and one is a 94. They all have the 5.0 V8 EFI OHV and all have auto trannys. But some are better than others. Here are there specifics.

1994 Ford Bronco

red

74,400 miles

all options

bug sheild

sunvisor

that one's for $5,999 from a dealership

1995 Ford Bronco

white

100,000 miles

rubber interior

some fender rust

basic

goin for $4,850 from a private seller, and it has no spare

1996

maroon/silver two tone

135,000 miles

minor passenger side rust

sun visor

bug sheild

faded top

new:

rotors

u-joints

calipers

brake pads

alternator

battery

spark plugs

new bulbs all around

fuel filter

fuel lines

keyless entry

remote start

pioneer stereo

and has power everything

this one's for $5,500 from a private seller.

Right now I like the 96 for all it's new stuff and it has a new CD system so I can rock to Metallica all day long.

These questions may be stupid, but I don't really know the answers to em

1. Can the top be replaced? I actually know it can be, but where can I get one, for little money?

2. How much would a spare tire rack cost?

All responses would be thanked!

 

[Seabronc]

The 96 sounds like the best buy. That's a lot of expensive work you may have to put into the others within a year any way. As far as the top, you can paint it or get it painted by a shop or look around at auto recycler yards. The tire rack might not be too expensive if you can find someone like Blade262US selling one.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Tevbuddy]

I have a blue 96.Was a police vehicle.351 V8 W/chip.New brakes all the way around plus all wheel bearings and seals.MP3 player deck w/stock speakers.NO RUST AT ALL!!!!!!! 1 dent in front fender.$4,000 OBO is what it is listed for.OH YA motor and tranny have been swapped out!!! NO oil leaks..

 

[Justshootme84]

The 96 does sound like the better deal of the three, just be sure to test drive it and check out everything. Crawl underneath and look for leaks, worn bushings, rusty frame, etc. or take it to a good mechanic for an inspection. If you're not sure about the price, pick up a copy of your local Auto Trader and look what similar Bronco's are going for.

As for items like the top and spare tire rack, your local salvage yard may have one for low cost. If you check out the for parts for sale/wanted forum here, there are a few folks parting out Broncos that you can deal with. Many of the body parts can swap from one year to another, either within the same model/style or for all 80-96 models.

 

[Broncoboy07]

The 96 does seem better, but the engine is very dirty. The frame looks taken care of and it is very nice on the inside. 135,000 seems like alot, but I hear people getting almost 260,000 out of their's with proper mantnance. Anyway, what parts do I need to look out for when cleaning the engine? I want to just give it a good bath with an old sponge.

 

[bidibronco]

My advice on what to watch out for when cleaning the engine would be; don't spray directally in the intake of course and be carefull around the distributer. other than that I don't believe there is to much to worry about since you're not running a carb.

 

[miesk5]

Is the engine dirty due to oil leaks or just road grime?....may need rocker cover gaskets, etc.

I do not spray any water on the engine...can not take chance of wiring connectors getting corroded (over-time).

--------

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed before severe duty schedules, etc. Still\till, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, drivability and leak checks, look for:

- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/POR 15 or Restore (NAPA, etc.) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford!

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight

- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing

- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually the motor connector is fouled, etc.

- auto hub operation (get it in sand, snow or mud and try the 4x4 system; or mark the driveshaft w/chalk or tape and see if it moves when in 4x4 for a short drive; ours blew @ only 30 k miles despite freq. maint.)

- rust in inner rear fender lips and bottom of tailgate (fender lips was rusting due to beach sand wearing the paint & road salt) ...check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass

- radius arm bushing deterioration (I sprayed em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings

- ball joints..our's are ok, but costly if not DIY

- PSOM, make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds..costly to replace; , a crooked dealer here in NJ has been caught for the 3rd time switching PSOMs!..there is also a device to roll-back odometers on PSOMs..so look for some maint records or contact a dealer to run an OASIS report to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership... Car Fax is iffy..they do NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our vehicles incl our 96!!! & our 92 Van had less mileage than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.

- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)

- emissions air check valve on MTA system..tends to rust early; as does the AIR tube

- radiator supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side is a PIA to replace

See if you can get it to a mechanic for a compression check, code checks (free at AutoZone, etc.and other inspections if you don't diy; neglected vehicles are costly to repair, esp. 4x4's

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miesk5/

The 96 does seem better, but the engine is very dirty.  The frame looks taken care of and it is very nice on the inside.  135,000 seems like alot, but I hear people getting almost 260,000 out of their's with proper mantnance.  Anyway, what parts do I need to look out for when cleaning the engine?  I want to just give it a good bath with an old sponge.

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[Broncoboy07]

Is the engine dirty due to oil leaks or just road grime?....may need rocker cover gaskets, etc.
I do not spray any water on the engine...can not take chance of wiring connectors getting corroded (over-time).

--------

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed before severe duty schedules, etc.  Still\till, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, drivability and leak checks, look for:

- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/POR 15 or Restore (NAPA, etc.) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford!

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight

- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing

- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually the motor connector is fouled, etc.

- auto hub operation (get it in sand, snow or mud and try the 4x4 system; or mark the driveshaft w/chalk or tape and see if it moves when in 4x4 for a short drive; ours blew @ only 30 k miles despite freq. maint.)

- rust in inner rear fender lips and bottom of tailgate (fender lips was rusting due to beach sand wearing the paint & road salt) ...check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass

- radius arm bushing deterioration (I sprayed em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings

- ball joints..our's are ok, but costly if not DIY

- PSOM,  make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds..costly to replace; , a crooked dealer here in NJ has been caught for the 3rd time switching PSOMs!..there is also a device to roll-back odometers on PSOMs..so look for some maint records or contact a dealer to run an OASIS report to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership... Car Fax is iffy..they do NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our vehicles incl our 96!!! & our 92 Van had less mileage than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.

- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)

- emissions air check valve on MTA system..tends to rust early; as does the AIR tube

- radiator supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side is a PIA to replace

See if you can get it to a mechanic for a compression check, code checks (free at AutoZone, etc.and other inspections if you don't diy; neglected vehicles are costly to repair, esp. 4x4's

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miesk5/

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Thanks for all the info! The engine looks like it just has dirt and dried mud on it. I am a DIY guy so I do most of the vehicle work myself. The bronco is going to be my first vehicle ever. I am buying a service manual for it. My parent's are Chrysler people so I am the first Ford guy. I did research and from friends, learned fords last alot longer. Plus I've always loved broncos. Like I said, the guy with the 96 does know alot and knew more than I did about broncos. I have done loads of research and he was telling me stuff I didn't know. It wasn't really about maintnance, more about careful off roading.

 

[bluesman17]

Its ALL about maintence, lots of broncos werent even used offroad. Knowing limitations is important but if you skip out on basic things it can bite you in the ass. The better you maintain it the longer it will last without giving you major problems especially offroad where everything is working that much harder. All of the stuff that was listed doesnt necisarily apply to your vehicle as climates differ and so does everything, look for the major stuff(quarter panel rust, tailgate rust, engine ticking.) Youre not going to buy a brand new vehicle or find a bronco that was driven from the dealership to storage. Do the best you can with your price range >-

 

[Broncoboy07]

My price range is up to about $6,000. I work a part time job and make about $75.00 a week. That's about enough for a full tank! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I put the rest of my time into studies, R/C, and my friends. I would like to know the basic stuff to look out for though besides rust spots. Anybody know?

 

[Broncoboy07]

hey, it just snowed to day and my dad is gettin ready to sell the sebring. he is givin me one more chance to buy the sebring. i already am lookin at that 96 and am gettin pretty serious about it. a week ago i told my dad as soon as i get enough money, im gonna buy the truck. but im still about $1,000 away. the guy is holdin the bronco for me for about one more week. i told him to just let it go since i dont want to waste his time keepin it for me. i havent even got a lisense yet! any way, my dad says he will give it to me for $4,500. i still want a ford and a 4x4, but $4,500 seems to good to be true. i dont know what to do yet i dont want to give up on a bronco! what should i do?!

 

[Broncoboy07]

by the way, i also need to get a good mpg vehicle. the bronco is far from it, but instead of driving to school every day, i would only take the bronco on fridays.

if you love the truck, you gotta be willin to pay for it!

 

[firelt90bronco]

well, when looking at a bronco, go with the one that you can get from a dealership, most are checked over and if there is a problem the dealership will be there, the guy who you bought the truck off of won't. If you are mechanical, buy one that needs some work, but know your limit. Tops can be replaced through junkyards or lmc truck www.lmctruck.com. Some junkyards also have good deals on the other parts, be sure to check on what you are buying to make sure it's not a fraud.

 

[Broncoboy07]

well, when looking at a bronco, go with the one that you can get from a dealership, most are checked over and if there is a problem the dealership will be there, the guy who you bought the truck off of won't. If you are mechanical, buy one that needs some work, but know your limit. Tops can be replaced through junkyards or lmc truck www.lmctruck.com. Some junkyards also have good  deals on the other parts, be sure to check on what you are buying to make sure it's not a fraud.

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my dad says if you buy a used truck or car, get it from a private dealer so you can see the background of the vehicle like was it owned by a mechanical person or just another soccer mom. although i dont know the chancesa of a soccer mom driving a bronco.

 

[bigbronc2632]

honestly check on the dealers reputation because lookin for anything some dealers are as bad about hiding shit than private sellers and there better at it. and when you find one i suggest getting it checked out its like 50 bucks to have a mechanic check it out for you give it all the tests and look it over completely even if your gonna work. if the private seller has a problem with getting it checked out first then theres a red flag. also find out why the seller wants to get rid of it. in my case the guy just really didnt have any need for it. he didnt need the money he just didnt want it to sit around and it was in great shape people like that tend to be more honest about it and are better about changing the price. dealers are just sellin it for the money.

 

[Broncoboy07]

honestly check on the dealers reputation because lookin for anything some dealers are as bad about hiding shit than private sellers and there better at it. and when you find one i suggest getting it checked out its like 50 bucks to have a mechanic check it out for you give it all the tests and look it over completely even if your gonna work. if the private seller has a problem with getting it checked out first then theres a red flag. also find out why the seller wants to get rid of it. in my case the guy just really didnt have any need for it. he didnt need the money he just didnt want it to sit around and it was in great shape people like that tend to be more honest about it and are better about changing the price. dealers are just sellin it for the money.

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i agree with you bigbronco, the dude im lookin at buyin from says he needs the money for his wedding and his wife doesnt like the big bronco.

 

[broncorama89]

i got a stock 89 with 210k and still strong. i would not buy from a dealer but thats just me. hey broncoboy, dont i know you?

 

[jfarish]

I would buy the 94 from the dealer it has the lowest miles of the three and it iis older then them. I agree that dealerships go through the vehicles they wouldnt buy it if they didnt think they could sell it.

 

[Broncoboy07]

I would buy the 94 from the dealer it has the lowest miles of the three and it iis older then them. I agree that dealerships go through the vehicles they wouldnt buy it if they didnt think they could sell it.

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yeah but dealers buy lease vehicles and those are the worse kinds, except for soccer mom vehicles.