During my commute to work yesterday morning, my turn signals quit working after I ran over a set of bumpy railroad tracks. They worked fine before the tracks and after the tracks they quit working. However, the 4-ways still worked, they just wouldn't blink when I was trying to activate the turn signal. Then on my way home, I hit the same set of railroad tracks and they began to work again. This morning the same thing happened, turn signals quit working after the bump of the railroad tracks, then they began to work again after I hit another big bump on the road. I haven't had the time to check it out, but I'm thinking that something somewhere might be loose, I just have no clue what it could be. I am no expert in electrical systems, so beyond the fusebox I really don't know where to start. :wacko:
Something else is going wrong!
- Thread starter walnuts75
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Jersey
New member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2008
- Messages
- 110
- Reaction score
- 1
Next time they stop working, try flipping the high beams on and off a few times. I cant even count how many times I have replaced those combo wiper/signal switches. If they work on hi beam, or come back on after flipping them on, thats probably the problem. Real easy to change too.
I tried flipping the high beams on/off and they worked for a few seconds and quit again. Now the signals won't work at all and it doesn't matter if the high beams are on or off. I think you're right, the switch might be going bad. Do you know how much a new switch is?
Broncobill78
New member
Oh man, that $hit will drive you crazy. I've HAD these problems before and not to harsh your buzz but more than once I've wound up yanking every freaking wire I could find out of the truck and completely rewiring it. Now I've only done this on trucks I had an investment in already (time, money, parts or both) and had already decided I was going to either keep long-term or rebuild completely to flip for a profit. Don't know where you stand with yours. Obviously the place to start is with the fuse panel and everything there. Now, fact is that even with an almost-end-of-the-line model like a 95' you're 13yrs old and being an Ohio truck it's entirely possible it's seen snow & salt it's entire life. Now understand that this is just MY paranoia but I've seen it 3x now with 78/79's and an 80-96 but sometimes the main harness connector gets the salt/snow/water slurrey into the connections and over the years it has a tendency to make the connectors get all green & crusty. If you look under the brake boster on the firewall (engine side) you'll see a big round doohickey bolted to the firewall. This is the main harness connector. If the problem *isn't* in the fuse panel then you may want to inspect the main harness connector to see what kind of shape it's in. Since I've had 3 failures there it's kind of a hot-button thing for me, yours may be fine but I'd at least look at it. Chances are the problem is in the main panel but if not you'll need to spread out & look everywhere. Wish I had more precise words of wisdom but that's all I've got.
Last edited by a moderator:
I'll check it out tonight. I finally got off work at a decent time and I now have time to check things out. Whatever it is I hope its a cheap fix because I still have to buy those new fenders. If its just a wiring issue, hopefully I can handle it. And yeah my Bronco has been in snow and salt all of its life. It was a Michigan truck for the first 9 years of its life which is even worse than Ohio. I hate salt, but I love snow.
Jersey
New member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2008
- Messages
- 110
- Reaction score
- 1
the switch I think is around 90 bucks from ford. They do make them after market now, but I think the price is higher. They are a snap to change, dont even need to take the wheel off. just the covers, 2 plugs and 2 screws.
BroncoJoe19
Active member
I just took a look at the wiring diagrams for your truck, and they have different grounds, but the one thing they definitely have in common is that multi function switch.
A cheapo fix, may be to try a few shots of CRC electronic contact cleaner.
Roadkill
New member
From you descriptions, I too suspect you have a bad multi-function-switch. I had to replace mine twice within a year. I got it at Advance Auto Parts (may be called Kragen or Checker in your area) cost $55. The replacement went bad on me and they replaced it free under warenty. They are easy to change, took me about 15 minutes. I'm sure you could also find one in another Ford truck at a junkyard, but I have no idea how much they would charge for it.
Those switches are doomed from the start. Too many circuits in a crappy platic component with lots of moveing parts inside.
Those switches are doomed from the start. Too many circuits in a crappy platic component with lots of moveing parts inside.
Last edited by a moderator:
bidibronco
New member
I had this problem and replaced the blinker thingy in the fuse box (forgive me for the lack of termanology usage) and also there is one behind it. One is for the 4-ways and the other is for the turns. They're like $2.50 a piece if I'm not completely dumb (it's still early and I'm only half done with my coffee).
Jersey
New member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2008
- Messages
- 110
- Reaction score
- 1
It turns out that it was the flashers in the fusebox. I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got a new flasher thingy and the signals worked perfectly. In addition to the flashers working, an unexpected outcome also came from replacing the flashers. Get ready b/c this is weird! I dont know if you guys remeber a post I made a few months ago about my Bronco not being able to idle correctly and I have to have my foot on the gas for it to stay running (I drove it with one foot always on the gas while the other brakes). Anyway, I was convinced that this was due to a bad TPS, but after I intalled the new flasher unit, my Bronco ran perfectly fine for the first time in four months. It idled all by itself at the correct RPM range and I no longer have to drive with two feet. I was not expecting this outcome at all. I guess that the circuts for the TPS and the flashers run together somewhere. I'm just so amazed that a $2.58 part fixed two big problems.
Similar threads
