Replace knock sensor 89 Bronco

[imnojedi]

Hi,

I apologize if this has been covered before. Found a Knock Sensor for my Bronco but didn't realize quite what replacement involved. Am thinking the intake manifold has to be removed & I will need a Torx T-40 socket to do it.

Is this correct & if so can someone please point me to a thread that may assist?

Pulling code 25 – knock sensor not detected. I purchased the Bronco new & am 98% sure the KS has never been replaced.

This I think is the tool on Amazon required:



Just replaced the EGR valve, position sensor. Anything else I should check or replace while I have the intake off = MAF, TPS?

Any help greatly appreciated. My BKO 89 Bronco EFI 302,Auto

thanks

 

[miesk5]

yo Richie;

DTC 25 Knock Sensor not tested (KOER); ignore if not pinging

You may not need to replace the KS;

25 comes up bec. the highlighted stuff wasn't done (or done in time) while checking for codes (by BroncoJoe19);

You preheat the engine and turn her off.

Shut off all electrical accessories or disconnect them (radio, CB's, lighting, etc.).

set your jumper wire and start her up.

After you get four flashes, or sweeps (three flashes or sweeps for a 6 cyl).

you depress and release the brake pedal, turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn, push the OD on off switch, THEN after a single flash... snap the throttle (push it all the way to the floor once) See Edit Below.

Then get ready to read your codes

EDIT... prior to doing the throttle test, one should wait for the signal to do so. The signal is a single quick flash. Aparrantly some trucks do not require it, and it should not be performed without being prompted to do so.

,,,

I would check ignition timing to be sure its set correctely at 10 degrees before TDC with the SPOUT connector removed.

TIMING Article by Ryan M (fireguy50);

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=71--

=========

This is from my 96 Bronco Workshop Manual;

Removal

Disconnect knock sensor electrical connector.

Remove knock sensor (KS) (12A699) from cylinder block.

Installation

Follow removal procedures in reverse order.

Tighten knock sensor to 20-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft).

--

This is by Chilton;

Removal & Installation

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2.Disconnect the wiring from the sensor.

3.Remove the sensor from the cylinder block.

To install:

4.Attach the KS to the cylinder block.

5.Attach the electrical connector to the sensor.

6.Connect the negative battery cable

===

I haven't done the KS R&R on an engine that is in the Bronco; some say intake manifold needs to be removed; see if you can use a step ladder to get better access if needed.

====

Inspect Vacuum hoses

Broncojoe has a Vacuum Leak Test in his Self Test for Codes @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

and I have one here @ http://broncozone.com/topic/22770-low-idle/

here is neat Vacuum Gauge http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/part_detail.jsp?PART_HDR_ID=87069

Gas Saver Vacuum Gauge

 

[imnojedi]

Hi miesk5,

Bronco is not pinging. I did follow pretty much to a tee the steps above with the exception of "wait for the signal to do so. The signal is a single quick flash. Apparently some trucks do not require it". Have an Equus code reader & don't remember reading that in the instructions. perhaps my Bronco is one that doesn't require it.

Timing is set 10 degrees before TDC with spout disconnected.

I am also getting a Continuous Memory code of 33 which indicates EGR Valve Fault/ Not Closing & have so far eliminated the EGR valve (took it off & tested it), the position sensor (had a spare - replaced a perfectly good position sensor few years back), EVR (if I'm using the multi-meter correctly & testing it correctly with instr found @ FSB - maybe yours), vacuum lines going from EGR to EVR (green) & EVR to vacuum canister (red) are also good. Not sure if I need to do anything with the black vacuum line going go the gas tank? Have not checked the canister itself tho.

Am kinda stuck & getting nowhere with code 33, that's why I was tackling the KS. I have mucked about with enough stuff it's probably a good idea to run all tests again.

Thanks for the vacuum leak test from Broncojoe as well as your own.

 

[miesk5]

yo RICHIE;

ok.

You can try BroncoJoes's DIY Code test and see if you get that snap throttle signal

I have an Actron OBII reader and it LACKS a few fundamentl instruction; I

EGR Vacuum Reservoir Can (Tank) (VRESER) - see if it is rusted esp if it is made of metal; if so, grab a plastic tank for 92-96 Yard Queens or build one yourself; see my archived site @ http://web.archive.org/web/20110704111812/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=924

see LINK most of the time the archives will not go to the Link; but will show the URL; so iggie the prefix such as

http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/egr/dn12.gif'>http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/egr/dn12.gif'>http://web.archive.org/liveweb/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/egr/dn12.gif

copy http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/egr/dn12.gif

into a new browser window;

Fabrication in a 95

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)

and if you mean the Evaporative System - Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister

http://web.archive.org/web/20110704090258/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1002

Location & Vacuum Hose Routing Video in an 86 5.0

Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/742200

DTC 31, 32. 33. 34. 35. 38 or 84 - EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor & EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid (EVR) Testing

Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at ylobronc.users.superford.org http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/egr/

DTC 33 & 34 "...DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing.... To prevent the EGR valve from opening when the engine is cold, the vacuum line to the EGR valve may be connected to a parted vacuum switch or a computer-controlled solenoid. Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. Any of these codes could indicate a faulty EGR valve as well. as well as a problem in the ...vacuum solenoids' Miesk5 note; TAB & TAD; so repair those vac lines 1st..."

Source: by Larry C

DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace repair any bad vac lines. for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; includes EVP testing & Links

Source: by miesk5

 

[imnojedi]

Hi miesk5,

I double posted, didn't get the response was expecting over at FSB last night so I posted here to.

Have now found several threads where you have given great instructions on testing the EVR etc.

Thanks for the assist. And all the info.