rear window

[Seth]

I know there's a lot of fuss about the rear window having problems, I did a search but didn't find anything that was directly to my problem.

Problem: Window goes down smooth but not up, almost like little power.

The latch switch was removed (opens when fully closed) because the key operated switch did not work so the drivers switch is my main one.

What can I do to get power? If there's a forum I missed with this info, direct me to it otherwise im open to ideas.

Also this is something I had in mind but didnt know if would work:

Get rid of the wires going from the drivers (master) switch and connected the two (purple in this case) directly to the motor wires.

 

[bobstrat]

might need to fix the motor internals. gravity works to your advantage when the window goes down. lifting it back up is all on the motor. there's a great fix posted here that i can personally recommend.

window motor fix

 

[Seth]

might need to fix the motor internals. gravity works to your advantage when the window goes down. lifting it back up is all on the motor. there's a great fix posted here that i can personally recommend. window motor fix

Thanks, Ill have to replace that motor it looks like.

Noticed the original part was kind of flat, but other are round.

Will that make anything difficult?

 

[Seabronc]

The problem is most likely corroded connections. On top of that the wires going to the rear window a re a little on the small size. I had similar problems with mine, especially when it got cold out. It sounded like a weight lifter going for that last championship press. I resolved the problem by going with 10 gauge from the front to the rear harness in place of the 16 gauge that Ford installed.

Good luck,

>-

PS that circuit will work, but I would still go with a size upgrade in the wore run. Don't forget to eliminate the connection for fuse 12 and tape it off so you don't develop a future short.

 

[Seth]

The problem is most likely corroded connections. On top of that the wires going to the rear window a re a little on the small size. I had similar problems with mine, especially when it got cold out. It sounded like a weight lifter going for that last championship press. I resolved the problem by going with 10 gauge from the front to the rear harness in place of the 16 gauge that Ford installed.
Good luck,

>-

PS that circuit will work, but I would still go with a size upgrade in the wore run. Don't forget to eliminate the connection for fuse 12 and tape it off so you don't develop a future short.

about how much ft did you need? would a wire nut do as far as taping it off?

 

[Seabronc]

about how much ft did you need? would a wire nut do as far as taping it off?

I upgraded the wire from the connector inside the engine compartment to the connector behind the left tail light. You might find that by just doing that you will fix the problem without eliminating the tail gate key switch. That can be done with 3 wires, one to replace the black with white stripe wire, and one for each of the other two. I also used crimp on connectors at both ends and sealed them with dielectric grease. Off hand I don't remember how long the run is but somewhere around 20 ft., I always give myself a little slack when doing something like this. It is easier to make them shorter than to make them longer . The easiest thing is to measure it. Doing the connection under the hood is a little tough but doable, just make sure you cut the right ones to splice the new ones to. The wire from the driver switch and fuse 14 is number 10 and for some reason Ford reduced it at the connector for the run to the rear end, another better idea by Ford :blink: . I ran mine outside along the frame rail after wrapping them with the black split sheath.

If you are going to eliminate the tail gate key switch then you only need 2 wires. If you don't have power door locks or windows then you can simply remove fuse 12, (see attached diagram). The connector that I am talking about that is under the hood is C124 in the diagram.

Good luck,

>-

Hope that is not too confusing, if it is, I'll try again when I'm not so tired /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

 

[Seth]

I upgraded the wire from the connector inside the engine compartment to the connector behind the left tail light. You might find that by just doing that you will fix the problem without eliminating the tail gate key switch. That can be done with 3 wires, one to replace the black with white stripe wire, and one for each of the other two. I also used crimp on connectors at both ends and sealed them with dielectric grease. Off hand I don't remember how long the run is but somewhere around 20 ft., I always give myself a little slack when doing something like this. It is easier to make them shorter than to make them longer . The easiest thing is to measure it. Doing the connection under the hood is a little tough but doable, just make sure you cut the right ones to splice the new ones to. The wire from the driver switch and fuse 14 is number 10 and for some reason Ford reduced it at the connector for the run to the rear end, another better idea by Ford :blink: . I ran mine outside along the frame rail after wrapping them with the black split sheath.
If you are going to eliminate the tail gate key switch then you only need 2 wires. If you don't have power door locks or windows then you can simply remove fuse 12, (see attached diagram). The connector that I am talking about that is under the hood is C124 in the diagram.

Good luck,

>-

Hope that is not too confusing, if it is, I'll try again when I'm not so tired /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

Yes that helps, thanks.

I dont use the key operated so I was thinking about cutting it out all together and having a straight line to the window. Im not much of an expert on automotives, the electric part mainly to be honest but im learning.