Rear End Clunk

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brad6920

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I have another problem I need to address, and I don't want to go mess with anything without asking everyone here first.

I have an 8.8 limited slip rear end that does a slight "clunk clunk" when starting from a stop and another one when I stop. I have had the truck for almost 10 years and it has always done this, but I am wondering if the clutches are going bad. Do you think this is the problem or could it be something else?

Thanks

 

Seabronc

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Check for slop in your drive shaft. It could be U-joints, slop in the differential, transmission slop, etc. It could also be that the hole in the radius arm bracket is getting ovaled around the radius arm. Clunks can be hard to locate since the sound travels through the frame. It doesn't sound too serious if you have had it for 10 years. Do you have any feel for where it is coming from? Has it been getting worse lately? I once had sticking brake shoes doing that when starting to move but not when stopping.

Good luck,

peace.gif


 

Bully Bob

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Yep.., like Seabronc said, it could be any number of things, or more than one thing. Those radius arm "donuts" rot & cause a thump.

A few others to check.., the leaf springs & U-bolts for tightness.

Another is the "slip" joint on the dr. shaft. It needs to be clean, lubed, & not worn out so as not to "stick" as it telescopes in-n-out during stop-n-go.

"I am wondering if the clutches are going bad."

Check me on this but when the clutches go.., the traction adding limited slip no longer helps. Not likely there would be any noise. (diff would still function under normal use)

However, if you've never changed the diff. gear oil. That wouldn't hurt.

It's a "special" oil -- OR -- Standard oil with Posi/limited slip additive.

 
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brad6920

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Thanks for the info, I have always felt like the noise was coming from the rear end, so I could probably start by replacing the U-joints and maybe even the brake shoes. The transmission and rear end have been rebuilt, but I guess they could still be the problem. Another wierd thing is, after the truck has been put on a lift to be worked on, the clunk disappears for 3-4 starts and stops. Strange, huh? I am really not too worried about it, since it has never gotten worse. It has just always been there.

 
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Rons beast

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Hey Brad,

Ditto on what Bully and Seabronc said, with this to add. I had the "clunk" and found it to be comming mainly from my transmission mount. A new mount was 3/4" higher than the old one. That's how much it had worn and dropped.

Not weird about the clunk going away after being on a lift. That would extend the driveshaft slip to it's fullest, as the rear suspention was hanging. It probably got a little "free" and the noise went away for awhile. All the better reason to get it cleaned and lubed.

On the rear limited slip clutches...when these get dry from low gear ***** or are getting worn out, they will make a clunking noise on turns. Not on a start or stop unless you had some real problems in the diff.

Good advice to change the gearoil though. Valvoline makes a gearlube with the limited slip additive already in it.

Good Luck

 

Bully Bob

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Ahhhh..,

I can't imagine someone re-building trannie & rear end & putting back in a dr. shaft with sloppy u-joints. And, thumping for ten yrs. W/O exploding...?

A test would be to just remove the rear dr. shaft, drive around in 4x4 hi & see if there's a difference.

BTW.., do you have some brand of lift...?

---- fill in your info. pages so we will know what's what here..... >:D< <'>

 
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brad6920

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I don't think the U-joints have ever been replaced, at least not since I have had it, so they must have looked okay when the trans and diff were rebuilt. They were not rebuilt at the same time. I will take the drive shaft out and see if it goes away. That will be a good test. Thanks for all the great ideas!

 

Hammerhead12

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I don't think the U-joints have ever been replaced, at least not since I have had it, so they must have looked okay when the trans and diff were rebuilt. They were not rebuilt at the same time. I will take the drive shaft out and see if it goes away. That will be a good test. Thanks for all the great ideas!

I'd put my money on the Slip Yoke on the Driveshaft. I had the same double clunk noise. Guy I bought it from said it had done it for years. Take the spline out of the rear yoke and grease it and pack the yoke with as much grease as you can. Presto - no more clunk.

 

miesk5

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yo,

I'm w/Bob & Hammerhead12 on this; I have had same rear clunk from Drive Shaft Slip Joint since I bought it new

could be a few things..

Rear Clunk:

slip shaft needs greasing

Worn and/or loose driveshaft U-joints/rear axle universal joint ******; Remove driveshaft and place on a suitable workbench. Check U-joints for seized bearing cups. Check U-joints for smooth rotation operation

Loose suspension components; Loose rear spring U-bolts

Excessive ring and pinion gear backlash

EXHAUST SYSTEM; Raise vehicle on hoist. Check for broken or loose clamps or brackets

Inspect running boards, grounding body to frame, antennas, visors, bug deflectors, etc. (if equipped).

Inspect wheels and tires

CHECK DIFFERENTIAL LUBRICANT:

Check for low lubricant level.

94-bronco-owners-manual-pg-338339--****-.jpg

Lubricant Chart for a 94 by Mikey see Note @ bottom of 2nd chart for Traction-Lok Friction Modifier

Check for wrong or poor grade axle lubricant.

INSPECT AXLE HOUSING; Check for exterior signs of damage

-----------

Bronco driveshaft is two pieces that slide together. slip shaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle like in the diagram below..."; miesk5 note, slip yoke is often referred to as the Slip Shaft Spline

Slip Shaft Spline Lubrication pic in a 95; "...If your bronco suffers from the notorious thunk this is a good time to **** your shaft.."

img_2630.jpg

Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco)

Driveline Clunk as Vehicle Starts to Move Following a Brake Stop (Two-Piece Driveshaft); "...Loose rear spring U-bolts. TIGHTEN U-bolts to specification. Worn or galled output driveshaft and coupling shaft splines. REMOVE the driveshaft from the vehicle. CLEAN the male splines and INSPECT for worn or galled splines. REPLACE if necessary. Worn or galled driveshaft slip yoke splines. CLEAN and INSPECT the female splines of the driveshaft slip yoke for worn or galled condition. REPLACE if necessary. Damaged driveshaft slip yoke seal. REPLACE seal. Insufficient lubrication in driveshaft slip yoke. Using a long handle (stencil type) brush, APPLY grease evenly on all the splines of the driveshaft slip yoke. REINSTALL driveshaft and using a hand grease gun, LUBRICATE the driveshaft slip yoke through the grease fitting. Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. NOTE: Install the driveshaft slip yoke, making sure that the coupling shaft and driveshaft are in phase..."; Miesk5 Note, Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C ESA-M1C75-B is available as Castrol MP Multi-Purpose Chassis Grease is a NLGI #2 lithium based, water resistant grease or ConocoPhillips Moly Poly Grease NLGI No. 2

From Ford, 96 Bronco Workshop Manual; same for your year

The Bronco rear driveshaft is of the double Cardan type which incorporates two universal joints, a driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782), and a driveshaft center yoke (4784) at the transfer case end of each shaft. A single universal joint is used at the axle end of the driveshaft.

Rear Driveshaft and Coupling Shaft, Bronco

96driveshaft.gif


get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the shaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all;

than grease your slip-joint and go from there

by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong); "...When you check the u-joints as Spiked described, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."

Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) & by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)

To grease slip yoke; cut the boot retaining ring clips

slide the boot over the shaft. grease splines & pull boot back over & use zip ties to hold boot in-place.

This is how FORD describes it;

cut the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamps (4K227) with sidecutters. Remove and discard the clamps

Separate the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) from the splined stub shaft on the driveshaft.

Remove the slip yoke boot. Inspect the slip yoke boot for rips or holes and replace if required.

If, during inspection, the driveshaft and coupling shaft boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. Check the lubricant by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip yoke and stub shaft. If driveshaft (4602) is operating satisfactorily and the grease does not appear to be contaminated, add grease as described in the assembly portion of this procedure and replace the slip yoke boot. If the grease appears contaminated, disassemble the driveshaft, clean and inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip yoke for wear. If splines are excessively worn, replace driveshaft.

If required, remove and replace the U-joints.

Assembly

Install the slip yoke boot with the small diameter side facing the splined stub shaft on the stub shaft. Push the slip yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.

Install a small driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp and crimp the clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.

Compress the slip yoke boot and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Fill the slip yoke boot with approximately 10 grams of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Slide the large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip yoke.

Align the blind splines on the splined stub shaft and in the driveshaft slip yoke. Push the driveshaft slip yoke onto the stub shaft.

Remove all excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces. Position the slip yoke boot over the driveshaft slip yoke boot groove.

Move the driveshaft slip yoke in or out in order to obtain the distance of 10 inches between stud shaft weld to the centerline of the driveshaft slip yoke U-joint

Before installing the new large slip yoke boot clamp, make sure that any air pressure which may have built up in the slip yoke boot is relieved. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the slip yoke boot and the driveshaft slip yoke and allow the trapped air to escape ("burp") from the slip yoke boot. THE AIR MUST BE RELEASED ONLY AFTER THE DRIVESHAFT IS SET AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH

Position the new large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp over the slip yoke boot and groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. Crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp with Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A

 

Jeff Ogden

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All the 8.8s I owned seemed to have a little slop in them,I replaced the original rear end in my 88 due to excessive clunk only to have it again with the replacement so I am going with a 9 inch soon.

 

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