Rear Axle stuck, any ideas?

[[email protected]]

I am in the middle of doing an all round Disc conversion and have started removing the old drums. I removed the passenger rear drums and the rest of the brake parts and was able to remove the axle no problem. The driver's side was more of the same until I got to removing the axle. It is not bugging. It turns perfectly smoothly but it seems to be held in by something. One thought was maybe the bearing is binding?

I am right to think it should just slide out like the passenger side, correct? Didn't want to start whacking on things if there was something else I was supposed to undo.

Any suggestions or info will be greatly appreciated...

k.

 

[miesk5]

yo sevilnatas1,

WELCOME!

Assuming a previous owner or shop did not swap the rear diff (9 inc) for a Dana, etc.

9 inch Identification

visually:


From rear of car look for a large center **** in middle of backside center section (post 66 models), in general a round appearance, it is a 9”.See photo above.
Read more by Kevin @ http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

 and more at http://www.maliburacing.com/ford_9_inch/ford_nine_inch.htm

Ford 9 Inch Rebuild/Gear Setup  By James Oxley

To Perform This Rebuild, You Should Have A Shop Manual That Lists Torque Specs, A Full Size Floor Jack , Two (3 Ton Min) Jack Stands, A Dial Indicator With Magnetic/Static Base, A Vierner Caliper, Gear Pattern Grease, &Quot;Red&Quot; Grade Thread Locker. Inch-lb Torque Wrench, And 150+ Ft-lb Torque Wrench

1. Remove Wheels And Place Rear Axle On Jackstands. I Like Jacking Between Shock Mount And Center Section. Jack Stands Should Be Placed Between Sets Of U-bolts, Directly Under Leaf Springs.

2. Release Emergency Brake. Remove Brake Drums.

 Note:​

    Backing Off On Internal Shoe Adjusting Star Wheel (Accessed Through Hole In Backing Plate) And/Or Hitting Brake Drum With Hammer Between 2 Studs In Axial Direction May Be Needed To Remove Stubborn Drums. When Hammering Drum, Keep Wheel Nuts On Studs To Avoid Thread Damage.

3. Rotate Axle To Line Up Hole In Axle ****** With One Axle Retaining Bolt. Remove Axle Retaining Bolt. Repeat This 3 More Times To Remove A Total Of 4 Axle Retaining Bolts. Remove Axle By Pulling Straight Out. Axle May Require Substantial Force To Be Removed. Ensure Small Pan Is Under End Of Axle Assy To Catch Any Leaking Rear End Fluid. Use Masking Tape To Mark Axle As To Driver Or Passenger Side.

                      

Read More...

Some tips;

To a stuck axle shaft use a slide hammer, or turn the drums around backwards and start 3 lugnuts, and use the drum as a poor mans slidehammer. by Tim

Another method to remove the axles is to use a length of chain. Take one link and place it over a lug bolt and secure it with a large washer and lug nut. Now take the free end of the chain and make a whipping motion with it. The axle will come right out after about four or five whips. by Vince 

...

When installing;

I just went thru the same thing last weekend. After sanding any rust on the axle bearing race and the end of the axle tube of the rear end I just picked up, I found that if I pushed the axle in with one hand and wiggled the splined end with the other hand it would go almost all the way in. Then a couple of taps with a rubber mallet and it was in. by Joe

 

[Bully Bob]

Yep.., any outward force will do it. (no side force)

Axles are diff. lengths so you can't mix them up. I believe it's the pass. side that's longest.

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks guys, I will give it a yank, now that I know it is supposed to come out, and let you know how it goes. 

k.

 

[mikeiam82]

When I pulled mine apart one of the axles was stuck also. Long story short, the previous owner abused it a bit as a snowplow and didnt maintain it so the seal went and all the oil came out then filled up a bit with water. The bearing then blew, fused itself to the axle tube by heat and rust. I work at a bodyshop so i was able to chain the housing down and pull it with the tower. I think it took 2000 lbs of pressure to get mine out and the outer part of the bearing stayed in the housing. It wasnt that big of a deal because i had the equipment but if i didnt it would have been a nightmare. If it is really stuck try a propane torch, heat it up and spray penetrating **** in then let it cool. Sometimes getting it hot and letting it cool breaks the fusion of metal and rust apart. Try a slide hammer to pound it out. I know up here in BC Canada people can go rent an axle puller from Canadian Tire.

 

[mikeiam82]

...

When installing;

I just went thru the same thing last weekend. After sanding any rust on the axle bearing race and the end of the axle tube of the rear end I just picked up, I found that if I pushed the axle in with one hand and wiggled the splined end with the other hand it would go almost all the way in. Then a couple of taps with a rubber mallet and it was in. by Joe

Try not to use a very coarse grit. Regular sandpapers when you hit metal with them they become almost useless, even autobody paper. Try to get some fine grit emery cloth like 220 or finer, it lasts a bit longer and is a better shape for the job.