new to broncos

[atbfn9]

hey all! well i am thinking bout getting a bronco for the fact they are big kickass trucks. so i was wondering what would be a good mileage bronco vs. too much mileage? (cus of age) what would be considered too much? i'm looking online most are between 3-5grand. and then what should i be looking for like problem areas on the bronco? and thats it for now

lifes good,

Anthony

 

[Justshootme84]

Consider that Ford stopped producing the fullsize Bronco in 1996, and older rigs are going to be 15+ years old. Even at 10K miles per year, you're looking at 150K miles or more likely 200K miles. the odometer rolls over at 100K, so you need to do your best effort to confirm the mileage on whatever Bronco you want to buy. Owner service records, DMV reports, and Carfax are very helpful, too. On page one of the 80-96 Bronco general forum is a pinned topic on year model options that you may want to view. This will help you choose whther you want a carbed motor (80-86/87) or fuel- injected (87-96). While the NADA and KBB values are highly elevated on a mint condition mid 80's to early 90's bronco at about $5000, you can easily find one for under $3000 without any major mods. Service records and general operating condition are more imprtant, as is the absence of rust on the body for higher value, JSM84

 

[wolf83]

jsm is right (he always is!) high miles isnt the issue. how well was it taken care of is the issue. service records and general appearance is all you got to go by.

in my opinion, i would buy this way:

if i feel confident the mechanics (motor, tran, transfer case, diffs etc.)are in good shape but the body (in & out

) is super rough, then i would pay about $1,000 - $1,500 (assuming a stock setup) -- even less if it isn't street legal or has bald tires.

if the body is great but motor is dying, then $1,000 - $2,500 -- assuming stock setup. less if the motor is really shot and/or isn't street legal.

if all is good, then $2,500 - $3,500 -- assuming a stock setup.

any mods (assuming they work) will add to the price.

remember that interior is pretty easy to fix -- just buy the new part and swap out.

rust and dents and stuff are pretty hard to work with -- especially for a novice like me -- i dont even own a welder.

serious mechanical (something deep inside the motor) is also pretty difficult and time consuming -- and may require special tools and knowledge.

i would buy based on exterior body first, then mechanical next, then interior last.

that's just me though. you better get a 2nd opinion. ;-)

 

[AdamDude04]

Yeah I got 317k miles on mine now. Still runnin strong as I just took it on a 5k mile road trip a few months ago. A/C still blows cold, and heater still blows hot.

Oil changes and other fluid changes are key to a good runnin motor.

 

[atbfn9]

very cool guys thanks for all your input i'm going to keep all that in mind. ive found all sorts of broncos on sale. but definitely will take everything you guys said into account. oh yea i came up with another question. what has your guys biggest problem with your broncos have been? like the typical things like tranny, or whatever? i just wanna get a consensus on what usually dies or if its all different.

 

[wolf83]

rust <--- biggest problem

 

[2percent]

yeh I just got my 95 with no rust mint and 86k for 3000 i bought my 89 last fall for 600 with 145k and rotted to ****. Me I prefer the fuel injected models just because of the winter and my old carb cars hated the cold.

 

[miesk5]

yo!

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule.

One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).

Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:

- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight

- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 15k miles and less if used for towing ("...For 1995, Ford Motor Company has reduced the mileage interval of automatic transmission fluid changes to 30,000 miles. This applies to all transmissions except the E40D transmission used in Ford trucks. The E40D change interval is 15,000 miles. Ford engineers stated that the intervals were reduced due to fluid degradation especially in humid climates. As you all know, the above-mentioned service intervals are for "normal driving" conditions, severe duty conditions (fleet, city driving, short trips, dusty conditions, hilly areas, towing, snowplowing) require more frequent service. Always change the transmission filter when you change the fluid...")

- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) ...

check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass

- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings

- ball joints.. costly if not DIY

- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY

- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)

or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

Car Fax is ok, but they did NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our past vehicles; & our ex-92 Van had less mileage listed than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they did nothing after we contacted them.

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.

- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)

- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com

- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace

For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy; For pre 96 do a SELF TEST by my friend here, BroncoJoe19; do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

GL!

 

[AdamDude04]

Yep, rust is the major issue.

Nice thing about the Bronco is the vast parts offerd. Cheap parts as the same part is used in many different vehicles through a wide range of years.