LumbermanSVO
New member
Don't worry, it takes a lot more that that to offend me! 
Little By Little
- Thread starter LumbermanSVO
- Start date
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yo
BATTERY GROUP NUMBERS, AND DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS
Battery tray 1997-07, 6 CYLINDER, dual battery
Online Price $87.12 http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/parts/2003/FORD/E-450%20ECONOLINE/?siteid=214771&vehicleid=1420298&section=ELECTRICAL&group=ELECTRICAL&subgroup=BATTERY&component=Battery%20tray
call for dimensions
or this may fit if you use Group 27 (according to Interstate Battery site);
Interstate Batteries MTP-27 - Interstate Mega-Tron Plus Automotive Batteries
Battery, 12 V, 750 Cold Cranking Amps, Top Post, 12 in. Length, 6.875 in. Width, 8.625 in. Height, Each
T-H MARINE Dual Battery Tray W/Polystrap $22.97
•Holds two Series 27 deep cycle batteries side by side. Patented poly strap with quick release buckle. Meets all NMMA specs for battery retention. 14-1/2" L x 13-1/8"W x 1" H.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM7590316010P?ci_src=184425893&ci_sku=SPM7590316010&sid=IDx20130125xMPTLSx025#desc
BATTERY GROUP NUMBERS, AND DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS
Battery tray 1997-07, 6 CYLINDER, dual battery
Online Price $87.12 http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/parts/2003/FORD/E-450%20ECONOLINE/?siteid=214771&vehicleid=1420298&section=ELECTRICAL&group=ELECTRICAL&subgroup=BATTERY&component=Battery%20tray
call for dimensions
or this may fit if you use Group 27 (according to Interstate Battery site);
Interstate Batteries MTP-27 - Interstate Mega-Tron Plus Automotive Batteries
Battery, 12 V, 750 Cold Cranking Amps, Top Post, 12 in. Length, 6.875 in. Width, 8.625 in. Height, Each
T-H MARINE Dual Battery Tray W/Polystrap $22.97
•Holds two Series 27 deep cycle batteries side by side. Patented poly strap with quick release buckle. Meets all NMMA specs for battery retention. 14-1/2" L x 13-1/8"W x 1" H.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM7590316010P?ci_src=184425893&ci_sku=SPM7590316010&sid=IDx20130125xMPTLSx025#desc
LumbermanSVO
New member
Thanks! Those are cheap enough for me to just order them and try it out.
LumbermanSVO
New member
A couple weeks ago I put a SoftTopper top on the Bronco. The install went smoothly and it fits well, I like it!
94stockbronco
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2012
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 3
The soft top looks great, I think I'd like to put one on mine.
LumbermanSVO
New member
I haven't done too much except add an amp and some subs I had sitting around. I need to build a new box for the subs as my cheapie prefab box is showing it's age.
In a couple weeks I'm having the ball joints replaced and a tie rid end, that should fix the weirdness in the front end. The rear has a noticeable amount of lateral movement when going over large bumps while cornering, I'm hoping some new bushings will fix that.
I've purchased some new 17" wheels (pic later) to replace the current ones that are corroding. The current tires are 10 years old and starting to crack, so soon I'll be replacing them with something's little more street friendly, and quieter!
A couple of the shocks are starting to leak, so I need to replace them. The general consensus online seems to be that Bilsteins or Rancho 9000's are the way to go. I like the adjustability of the 9000's but can't seem to find the part numbers for the fronts at stock height, can anyone help with that?
Thanks folks!
In a couple weeks I'm having the ball joints replaced and a tie rid end, that should fix the weirdness in the front end. The rear has a noticeable amount of lateral movement when going over large bumps while cornering, I'm hoping some new bushings will fix that.
I've purchased some new 17" wheels (pic later) to replace the current ones that are corroding. The current tires are 10 years old and starting to crack, so soon I'll be replacing them with something's little more street friendly, and quieter!
A couple of the shocks are starting to leak, so I need to replace them. The general consensus online seems to be that Bilsteins or Rancho 9000's are the way to go. I like the adjustability of the 9000's but can't seem to find the part numbers for the fronts at stock height, can anyone help with that?
Thanks folks!
LumbermanSVO
New member
I forgot to mention, it's an '86 with quad shocks.
Seabronc
New member
Looks great! For the sake of your rear passengers, you might want to consider adding a roll bar.
>-
>-LumbermanSVO
New member
It's pretty rare that I have rear passengers, I've only had two so far. Heck, I don't even drive it much due to my job, I've put 6k on it since I got it, and that was with an abnormally large amount of vacation time.
LumbermanSVO
New member
Well, I'm between jobs and deciced to spend some quality time with 'Ol Smokey. I started by removing all the rear interior parts, sub and amp I previously installed, I then cleaned it all and reinstalled it, but not before some other stuff too. I ran a 1/0 guage wire from the battery to the rear. I put a distro block on each side just behind the seatbelt mount. I then put an older MTX RT2400 amp behind the left rear speaker opening and a JL 300/4 v1 behind the right side speaker opening. The MTX is powering the subs and the JL is powering the front speakers. I also installed a 300w PowerBright pure sine wave inverter under the drivers seat. I also installed a modded Cobra 29 CB, dual plug 12v power outlets and a Viper alarm/remote start, bluetooth audio input, real cupholer, and phone mount. Most of what I installed I already had laying around.
Here are a few pics.
Here are a few pics.
LumbermanSVO
New member
A few days after doing the work in the last post I moved from Seattle to Richmond, Va and so far I'm really liking the place. I pulled a 5x8 U-Haul trailer (8350lbs gross weight on an Oregon DOT scale) across the country with it and got anywhere from 11.8-8.2 mpg with it depending on the terrain and weather. Empty I normally get a hair over 15mpg on the highway, I don't track in town. On the first day of my trip it puked the entire contents of the cooling system onto the highway. I topped it off with water and it's been fine since, no sign of any cooling system problems since, it's completely baffling.
On the last 500 miles of the trip I had a few new symptoms pop up, I'm not sure where to start on this:
Today I did a couple of small repairs and such. I replaced both door pin switches(one was dead, so why not replace both) and tied the alarm into the doors. The dome light was missing the lens and bulb so I replaced both of them as well. Tomorrow I will be replacing the door hinge pins and will setup the alarm to turn on the dome light for 60 seconds when I disarm the alarm or turn the ignition off.
On the last 500 miles of the trip I had a few new symptoms pop up, I'm not sure where to start on this:
- It clunks when going into reverse or drive, but only when warm.
- It makes a weird clicking noise at low speeds
- There is a severe vibration at around 60 mph when under power, but it goes away when I let off the throttle
Today I did a couple of small repairs and such. I replaced both door pin switches(one was dead, so why not replace both) and tied the alarm into the doors. The dome light was missing the lens and bulb so I replaced both of them as well. Tomorrow I will be replacing the door hinge pins and will setup the alarm to turn on the dome light for 60 seconds when I disarm the alarm or turn the ignition off.
Seabronc
New member
Clunks and vibration could very well be U-joint problems. Check them out for play with the rear wheels off the ground and in neutral.
Good luck,
>-
Good luck,
>-LumbermanSVO
New member
I pulled the driveshaft and the rear u-joint fell apart. Lots of rust and a bunch of missing bearings. I gonna eat lunch then throw it back together. I had no noise driving without the rear shaft.
LumbermanSVO
New member
Today I replaced all four door striker bushings and the top two hinge pins, the bottom two were fine. What a total PITA the hinge pins turned out to be. The factory ones were pretty much fused to the body side of the hinges. It took a lot of dremeling, drilling, chiseling, prying and hammering, but I eventually got them out. The doors now open and close MUCH better. With the new striker bushings in the rear the tailgate no longer wiggles when closed, hopefully that means it wont rattle anymore either.
I also did my dome light mods today.
So things left on my summer To Do List:
• Replace choke with 12v unit (Preping for future 3G alt upgrade)
• Upgrade ignition system do i can bump the timing and hopefully improve fuel milage
• Add power door lock switch tot he dash.
• Get horn working
• Get cruise control working
• Convert to power windows
• Replace weather seals in the doors
• Add sound deadener to the doors
• Rebuild door panels to fit 8" midbass drivers
• Rebuild headliner and sound deaden the roof
I also did my dome light mods today.
So things left on my summer To Do List:
• Replace choke with 12v unit (Preping for future 3G alt upgrade)
• Upgrade ignition system do i can bump the timing and hopefully improve fuel milage
• Add power door lock switch tot he dash.
• Get horn working
• Get cruise control working
• Convert to power windows
• Replace weather seals in the doors
• Add sound deadener to the doors
• Rebuild door panels to fit 8" midbass drivers
• Rebuild headliner and sound deaden the roof
Seabronc
New member
I see you have some sound deadening items. I used sound deadening pads on the inside of the door skin and on the rear wheel wells from bronco graveyard http://broncograveyard.com/bronco?search=sound+deadening and the Sound deadener and heat shield kits from LMC Truck http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=102 . You could also use the pads on the roof inner skin.
The heat shield kit made a big difference in the amount of heat in the cab caused by the exhaust pipes running right under the floor. Also in the winter it keep the heat loss caused by the cold floor metal. On top of that I put a new rug on from LMC http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=103 .
Good Luck with your project.
>-
The heat shield kit made a big difference in the amount of heat in the cab caused by the exhaust pipes running right under the floor. Also in the winter it keep the heat loss caused by the cold floor metal. On top of that I put a new rug on from LMC http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=103 .
Good Luck with your project.
>-LumbermanSVO
New member
I spent several years installing high end car stereo systems and have made many cars much quieter than when they rolled off the assembly line. I will document everything I do for ya guys though.
My approach will be a BUNCH of dynamat-like products, a layer of something soft like foam, then a layer of a firmer sound barrier material, then the typical under carpet padding/insulation and some new carpet. This approach is normally good for a 5+DB cut if road noise in a modern car, I'm sure it'll be much more effective on a mid-80's truck. The soft top doesn't help, but I did a ******* fiberglass '33 Ford once and when I was done you could easily have a conversation inside it at 60 mph, before you nearly needed ear plugs.
-----
I'm curious though, I installed a remote start and the only problem I have is resetting the choke before each attempt to start the engine. I'm thinking there might be a way I use the cruise control to do this for me. Is there a wire I can send power to that will cause the cruise to pull the throttle? If so, will it release(close) the throttle when I cut power? I can use an output on the alarm to trip a relay each time it tries to start the engine. I'm not really familiar with the cruise system so I'm not sure if this is possible. If I have tell it to close the throttle, I can use a second output on the alarm to do that too.
If I can't use the cruise, then I'll just have to figure out how to mount a physical solenoid to give the throttle a tug. But I'd rather use a factory part that is made to live in the rough environment found under the hood.
My approach will be a BUNCH of dynamat-like products, a layer of something soft like foam, then a layer of a firmer sound barrier material, then the typical under carpet padding/insulation and some new carpet. This approach is normally good for a 5+DB cut if road noise in a modern car, I'm sure it'll be much more effective on a mid-80's truck. The soft top doesn't help, but I did a ******* fiberglass '33 Ford once and when I was done you could easily have a conversation inside it at 60 mph, before you nearly needed ear plugs.
-----
I'm curious though, I installed a remote start and the only problem I have is resetting the choke before each attempt to start the engine. I'm thinking there might be a way I use the cruise control to do this for me. Is there a wire I can send power to that will cause the cruise to pull the throttle? If so, will it release(close) the throttle when I cut power? I can use an output on the alarm to trip a relay each time it tries to start the engine. I'm not really familiar with the cruise system so I'm not sure if this is possible. If I have tell it to close the throttle, I can use a second output on the alarm to do that too.
If I can't use the cruise, then I'll just have to figure out how to mount a physical solenoid to give the throttle a tug. But I'd rather use a factory part that is made to live in the rough environment found under the hood.
yo,
So far Chilton On-Line and ARRC do not show the wiring diagrams for your 86 CC system;
But see,
Speed Control - "Tricks Of The Trade" by Ford
1986-91 Aerostar, Bronco, Econoline, Explorer, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger
1988-91 F Super Duty, ETC.
http://www.performanceprobe.com/index2.php?redirect=http://www.performanceprobe.com/misc/tsb.php?article=90-25-12
If a concern cannot be found with a visual inspection, it can usually be found with an inspection. It can usually be isolated by making voltage and resistance measurements at the amplifier connectors (Stand-Alone System) or at the EEC-IV connector (Integrated System). The connectors must be unplugged for the resistance checks.
The following tables summarize the circuits and wire color codes used for the speed control system. The proper voltage/resistance readings at the amplifier or EEC-IV connectors are also given. Typical circuit numbers apply to both car and truck applications. Refer to the appropriate Shop Manuals, Section 37-05, or to the Electrical/Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manuals for the exact circuit number or color code.
EXCERPTS:
So far Chilton On-Line and ARRC do not show the wiring diagrams for your 86 CC system;
But see,
Speed Control - "Tricks Of The Trade" by Ford
1986-91 Aerostar, Bronco, Econoline, Explorer, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger
1988-91 F Super Duty, ETC.
http://www.performanceprobe.com/index2.php?redirect=http://www.performanceprobe.com/misc/tsb.php?article=90-25-12
If a concern cannot be found with a visual inspection, it can usually be found with an inspection. It can usually be isolated by making voltage and resistance measurements at the amplifier connectors (Stand-Alone System) or at the EEC-IV connector (Integrated System). The connectors must be unplugged for the resistance checks.
The following tables summarize the circuits and wire color codes used for the speed control system. The proper voltage/resistance readings at the amplifier or EEC-IV connectors are also given. Typical circuit numbers apply to both car and truck applications. Refer to the appropriate Shop Manuals, Section 37-05, or to the Electrical/Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manuals for the exact circuit number or color code.
EXCERPTS:
LumbermanSVO
New member
Thanks, I think the servo wires are what I'm looking for. My new choke showed up on my door step today and I'll begin work on this project tomorrow.
LumbermanSVO
New member
I played around with the cruise today and couldn't get it to do anything. More playing is in order.
LumbermanSVO
New member
I took Ol Smokey to the NC Outer Banks this weekend and it handled the deep sand in the beaches like a champ. Top down driving on the beach was awesome!
I found a '93 F-150 truck to grab so e parts from. For $300 I got the AOD (so I can gain an overdrive) and all the little parts my heart desires.
Last week I ordered up some sound deadening material and this week I'll start installing it. I'll also be doing before and after DB readings inside to show/prove the "gains" from that mod.
I found a '93 F-150 truck to grab so e parts from. For $300 I got the AOD (so I can gain an overdrive) and all the little parts my heart desires.
Last week I ordered up some sound deadening material and this week I'll start installing it. I'll also be doing before and after DB readings inside to show/prove the "gains" from that mod.
