yo Broncohulk11,
Welcome!
Shifter won't move;
1st simple check is to see if brake lights (not dash light) are working; if not (from Owner's Guide)"
"Your vehicle is equipped with a brake-shift interlock feature. This feature prevents you from shifting from P (Park) unless you have the brake pedal depressed. (The ignition must be in the ON position.) If you cannot shift from P (Park) with the brake pedal depressed:
1. Apply the parking brake.
2. Remove the key.
3. Insert the key and rotate one position clockwise (ignition in the OFF position).
4. Apply the brake pedal and shift to N (Neutral). (If the vehicle is shifted to P
(Park), you must repeat the previous steps.)
5. Start the vehicle.
If you need to shift out of P (Park) by using the alternate procedure described above, it is possible that a fuse has blown and that your
brake lamps may also not be functional. "
==
Shift Cable Adjustment & Indicator Cable Adjustment in 92-96
Source: by Steve
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/434182_1
Also see
Shift Lever Stuck in Park (pic is gone); "...These (and many other) vehicles are equipped with a Brake/Shifter interlock for safety. This system requires the driver to hold the brake depressed before the shift lever can be moved from the Park position. There is an actuator (solenoid) on the left side of the steering column under the dash that disengages the shifter lock when the brake is depressed. In the event this system malfunctions, the shift lever may be stuck in the Park position. One cause of this complaint may be due to a faulty brake switch circuit. If you experience this complaint always check for blown fuses and brake light switch operation before proceeding with other work.
Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org
and
Section 07-05: Transmission, Automatic, External Controls
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Symptom Charts
Use the symptom chart as an aid in determining possible conditions, sources and necessary service actions for shift control linkage.
SHIFT CONTROL LINKAGE
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj75006.htm
read;
•Shift Control Linkage Binding, Out of Proper Gear Relationship
•Cannot Shift from Park with Brake Depressed
and
•Can Shift from Park Without Depressing Brake
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Here is the 93 Bronco wiring diagram for Start Circuit;
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8647
Shift Tube, Lever Plunger, Tube Clamp, & Lever 7210 (Automatic Only) may include TCS & TCIL (Electronic Automatic Only) Depictions & Locations in Steering Column Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96 w/Nomenclature; "...This is actually a CV diagram, but similar; Items #26 & 34 are known to get loose; #28 is known to wear. Items #19 & 25 are known to break, and Ford offers upgraded versions..." To align the shifter, shift lever, & shift indicator; by Ford via Steve @
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/701936
Check Shift Cable, may be damaged;
Right behind where the shift cable meets up with the E4OD shift linkage, there is a small bracket. It's down PAST the bottom of this pic.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/149883/fullsize/IMG_2808.JPG
There, the cable has a tab on either side of it. All you do is squeaze the tabs and pull the cable through the bracket. Piece of cake.
by Ian
For Diagram AND ADJUSTMENTS, See Transmission Shift Control Cable and Bracket
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj75018.htm
============
So, the engine is not turning over and starter is Not spinning?
If so;
see 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual,
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm
Same as most earlier years exc. for OBD II, 4WABS (93-96) ABS 87-92), Air Bag (94-96) and a few other items
Section 03-06: Starting System
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Symptom Chart — Starting System
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj36005.htm
btw, ignore "push-button switch"
=========
No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS), to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator.
Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.
check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily.
try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the NSS.
You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground or a bad starter. Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the neutral safety switch
. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is...";
MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96
Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper; MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}. Hopefully it could be a dead cell in da battery.
Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)
