my bronco is giving a code of 33 and 172. i replaced the evp sensor. the old one did have an open signal when i depressed it only in one spot. this did not fix the prob. i have had the valve off and cleand it and cheked to see if it was sealing of. it did fine. the check engine light only comes on at a good traveling speed 40+ in 3rd or 4th gear with agood load. it starts stumbling. the light does go out but it comes back on. i think it could be the evr valve. i have alredy read alot on some other post you all have put up.anny help would be appreciated.
egr prob 95 bronco
- Thread starter 1coolhall
- Start date
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yo!
Welcome to da ZONE!!
In your 95, you should be getting only 3 digit codes;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
for now:
172
(R,M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
Ck wiring/connector...
DTC 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S Failure Or Fuse "E" Inoperative, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, DRLs Inoperative, MIL On, Inadvertent Self-Test, Speedometer Inoperative & Trailer Battery Charge Relay Inoperative in TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; "...the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions....Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes. CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND. If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault: ..." READ MORE.Source: by Ford via Chilton
If you have mass-airflow (MAF);
DTC 172 lean Heated O2; "...Backprobe the MAF (+) and MAF-RTN (-) lines with a DVOM. You should see ~1.0V or slightly less at warm idle. If not, check the +12V and GND lines to make sure there's battery voltage between those terminals with the ignition key turned ON. You also may want to try using the proper spray cleaner on the MAF wires, especially if you have a K&N oily filter (in which case I can almost guarantee there's oily junk on your MAF's wires). Also make certain that the tube(s) leading from the MAF to the throttle body are 100% intact. The red wire (on the right in the first above picture) is supposed to have battery voltage with the key on. Measure between that wire and the one right next to it. You measure the MAF voltage at idle, because the MAF voltage is what's interpreted by the PCM..."
Source: by SigEpBlue
---------------------
Let me guess on the 33 Code;
,,, if the EGR valve is Clean (re, your "have had the valve off and cleand it and checked to see if it was sealing of. it did fine...") & functioning/moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first.
\&
Operation & Testing; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose uncoded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling. First, remember that EGR valves are designed to reduce harmful NOx emissions that may occur when cylinder peak combustion temperatures reach 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature, Nitrogen (N), which makes up 78% of the intake air, will combine with Oxygen (O), which makes up 21% of the intake air, in various ratios. The letter "x" represents these various combinations. When NOx enters the atmosphere it unites with hydrocarbons with the help of the sun and smog forms. Whenever the EGR valve allows exhaust to re-enter the intake manifold it displaces good burnable air/fuel. This cools the combustion but also reduces the power that the cylinders produce. Therefore, we must make sure that this doesn't happen at the wrong time. The wrong times are: ) During cold engine operation. 2) During engine idle. 3) During high power demands. EGR operation during any of these conditions will cause hesitations, rough idle or engine stalling. Today, EGR activity is better controlled by computer operated solenoids and backpressure sensing valves. This greatly overcame the driveability problems of the early EGR systems of the 70's. The EEC IV system uses the EVP sensor to advance timing and, therefore, help burn the mixture better during EGR flow. The EVP sensor measures the EGR valve position in the same way that the Throttle Position Sensor measures throttle position. As a matter of fact, these electrical circuits work in very much the same way. They both use three wires; 1) 5 volt reference 2) ground and 3) sensor output to the computer. They both send a low voltage at closed position and a high voltage at maximum opening. The EVP's closed voltage depends on the EGR's closed position and the EVP's maximum voltage depends on the EGR's position when it is at maximum travel. Any position in between minimum and maximum depends on vacuum signal strength and the EGR return spring resistance to the vacuum signal. So, different voltages will be produced by different vacuum signals. The chart below shows you the relationship between the vacuum signal strength in inches of mercury ("Hg) and the voltages that result from the EVP sensor. Remember that this chart applies to EGR valves that have good return springs. NOTE: Allow +/- .2 volts for all specifications. Now, the problem with this chart is that it doesn't tell you how to move the valve to the opening percentages. The missing information is that Ford EGR valves will open 100% at 8 "Hg. Therefore, 50% opening will be obtained by creating 4 "Hg, etc. Now that you know this, you can open the EGR valve using a vacuum pump and watch the voltage on your digital voltmeter with the key on engine off. If you find that the voltage rises more than the chart allows, you probably found the cause for the stumble or hesitation. The EGR valve spring has become weak and it responds too quickly. But, because it is still within the allowed voltage range, there is no trouble code stored. Keep in mind that the EVP Sensor could also be out of calibration or stuck. So when you disassemble the EVP Sensor from the EGR valve you must determine which was at fault. Also be careful to reassemble them with a new "O" ring. This will ensure that a vacuum leak doesn't occur..." See Diagram
Source: by KEM Auto Parts kemparts.com™ via web.archive.org
DTC 334 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected; "...Failed sensor, & as by rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary..." read more
Source: by rla2005 (Randy) & miesk5
Testing & Operation in a 94; "...In the case of the EVP sensor, the information is sent in the way of sensing the actual position of the EGR valve. 327 indicates the voltage in the EVP circuit was lower than it should EVER be. However, 337 indicates that the voltage coming back to the PCM is too high. These conflicting codes need to be verified. You may have wiring damage with this situation. EVP sensor should have three wires running to it. BROWN/WHITE (pin1), GREY/RED (pin2), BROWN/LT. GREEN (pin3). The GREY/RED is always the signal return. For two-pin sensors the PCM uses the voltage coming back down this wire for information. For three-pin sensors the PCM uses both this and the third pin (in the case of the EVP sensor, the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire) as a comparison voltage to the signal return voltage in the GREY/RED wire. Pin 46 of the PCM is the signal return terminal. The PCM assumes the necessary voltage drop through the wiring harness and takes the voltage from the third (BROWN/LT. GREEN) pin as a comparison. The difference is calculated and the PCM makes adjustments accordingly. The voltage at pin 46 of the PCM should be very close to the same voltage as found at pin 26 or slightly lower. To check that the VREF (reference voltage) generated by the PCM power supply is good, meter between pin 26 of the PCM and a good frame ground. Double check the wiring harness TO the EVP sensor by checking for the same voltage at the BROWN/WHITE wire in the EVP connector in the wiring harness. If you have a good VREF voltage (5VDC approx.) then jump the BROWN/WHITE wire to the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire and check the voltage at pin 27 of the PCM. If you still have good VREF voltage, the problem does NOT lie in the wiring harness. You can do the "wiggle" test on the harness to make sure there are no weak or loose connections between the sensor connector and the PCM. To test the EVP sensor itself, probe the pins that connect to the aforementioned wires and run the test by applying vacuum as described in my previous post. As mentioned, the resistance should change smoothly as the vacuum is slowly released. If it does not, the EVP is bad. Note: Only run this test with the EVP sensor disconnected from the wiring harness or your readings will be tainted by the electronics in the PCM. One thing to note here is that the VREF feed for the EVP sensor splits off to both the TP (throttle position) sensor and the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor somewhere in the main harness between the firewall and the individual sensors. You might do well the check for damaged wires at all of these sensors just in case the harness is damaged and shorting at one of the other sensors being fed VREF..."
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B)
DTC 332, P1407 and P1408 or detonation ;"...We have run into many situations where a code for insufficient flow has been set and the system is functioning correctly. Then it is time to check the EGR passages. There is a Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 96-23-4) that addresses this for some vehicles. This TSB includes: 1992-1995 Crown Victoria 1994-1995 Thunderbird 1991-1995 Town Car 1992-1995 Grand Marquis 1994-1995 Cougar The concerns have to do with intermittent MILs; DTCs 332, P1407 and P1408; or detonation. If exercising the EGR valve does not result in a change in rpm, then the passages may be clogged. There are “U” shaped passages (Fig. 6) under the throttle body adapter that get clogged with carbon. Remove the adapter, clean the passages and reinstall with a new gasket. Just because the vehicle you are working on is not listed in the TSB doesn’t mean you may not have a clogging problem. Make sure you check the passages and be sure they are clean. Just a slight restriction can cause a flow code to be set, and you may still have an rpm drop that can mislead you..." Source: by tomco-inc.com
Ck vac lines
Welcome to da ZONE!!
In your 95, you should be getting only 3 digit codes;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
for now:
172
(R,M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
Ck wiring/connector...
DTC 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S Failure Or Fuse "E" Inoperative, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, DRLs Inoperative, MIL On, Inadvertent Self-Test, Speedometer Inoperative & Trailer Battery Charge Relay Inoperative in TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; "...the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions....Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes. CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND. If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault: ..." READ MORE.Source: by Ford via Chilton
If you have mass-airflow (MAF);
DTC 172 lean Heated O2; "...Backprobe the MAF (+) and MAF-RTN (-) lines with a DVOM. You should see ~1.0V or slightly less at warm idle. If not, check the +12V and GND lines to make sure there's battery voltage between those terminals with the ignition key turned ON. You also may want to try using the proper spray cleaner on the MAF wires, especially if you have a K&N oily filter (in which case I can almost guarantee there's oily junk on your MAF's wires). Also make certain that the tube(s) leading from the MAF to the throttle body are 100% intact. The red wire (on the right in the first above picture) is supposed to have battery voltage with the key on. Measure between that wire and the one right next to it. You measure the MAF voltage at idle, because the MAF voltage is what's interpreted by the PCM..."
Source: by SigEpBlue
---------------------
Let me guess on the 33 Code;
,,, if the EGR valve is Clean (re, your "have had the valve off and cleand it and checked to see if it was sealing of. it did fine...") & functioning/moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first.
\&
Operation & Testing; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose uncoded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling. First, remember that EGR valves are designed to reduce harmful NOx emissions that may occur when cylinder peak combustion temperatures reach 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature, Nitrogen (N), which makes up 78% of the intake air, will combine with Oxygen (O), which makes up 21% of the intake air, in various ratios. The letter "x" represents these various combinations. When NOx enters the atmosphere it unites with hydrocarbons with the help of the sun and smog forms. Whenever the EGR valve allows exhaust to re-enter the intake manifold it displaces good burnable air/fuel. This cools the combustion but also reduces the power that the cylinders produce. Therefore, we must make sure that this doesn't happen at the wrong time. The wrong times are: ) During cold engine operation. 2) During engine idle. 3) During high power demands. EGR operation during any of these conditions will cause hesitations, rough idle or engine stalling. Today, EGR activity is better controlled by computer operated solenoids and backpressure sensing valves. This greatly overcame the driveability problems of the early EGR systems of the 70's. The EEC IV system uses the EVP sensor to advance timing and, therefore, help burn the mixture better during EGR flow. The EVP sensor measures the EGR valve position in the same way that the Throttle Position Sensor measures throttle position. As a matter of fact, these electrical circuits work in very much the same way. They both use three wires; 1) 5 volt reference 2) ground and 3) sensor output to the computer. They both send a low voltage at closed position and a high voltage at maximum opening. The EVP's closed voltage depends on the EGR's closed position and the EVP's maximum voltage depends on the EGR's position when it is at maximum travel. Any position in between minimum and maximum depends on vacuum signal strength and the EGR return spring resistance to the vacuum signal. So, different voltages will be produced by different vacuum signals. The chart below shows you the relationship between the vacuum signal strength in inches of mercury ("Hg) and the voltages that result from the EVP sensor. Remember that this chart applies to EGR valves that have good return springs. NOTE: Allow +/- .2 volts for all specifications. Now, the problem with this chart is that it doesn't tell you how to move the valve to the opening percentages. The missing information is that Ford EGR valves will open 100% at 8 "Hg. Therefore, 50% opening will be obtained by creating 4 "Hg, etc. Now that you know this, you can open the EGR valve using a vacuum pump and watch the voltage on your digital voltmeter with the key on engine off. If you find that the voltage rises more than the chart allows, you probably found the cause for the stumble or hesitation. The EGR valve spring has become weak and it responds too quickly. But, because it is still within the allowed voltage range, there is no trouble code stored. Keep in mind that the EVP Sensor could also be out of calibration or stuck. So when you disassemble the EVP Sensor from the EGR valve you must determine which was at fault. Also be careful to reassemble them with a new "O" ring. This will ensure that a vacuum leak doesn't occur..." See Diagram
Source: by KEM Auto Parts kemparts.com™ via web.archive.org
DTC 334 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected; "...Failed sensor, & as by rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary..." read more
Source: by rla2005 (Randy) & miesk5
Testing & Operation in a 94; "...In the case of the EVP sensor, the information is sent in the way of sensing the actual position of the EGR valve. 327 indicates the voltage in the EVP circuit was lower than it should EVER be. However, 337 indicates that the voltage coming back to the PCM is too high. These conflicting codes need to be verified. You may have wiring damage with this situation. EVP sensor should have three wires running to it. BROWN/WHITE (pin1), GREY/RED (pin2), BROWN/LT. GREEN (pin3). The GREY/RED is always the signal return. For two-pin sensors the PCM uses the voltage coming back down this wire for information. For three-pin sensors the PCM uses both this and the third pin (in the case of the EVP sensor, the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire) as a comparison voltage to the signal return voltage in the GREY/RED wire. Pin 46 of the PCM is the signal return terminal. The PCM assumes the necessary voltage drop through the wiring harness and takes the voltage from the third (BROWN/LT. GREEN) pin as a comparison. The difference is calculated and the PCM makes adjustments accordingly. The voltage at pin 46 of the PCM should be very close to the same voltage as found at pin 26 or slightly lower. To check that the VREF (reference voltage) generated by the PCM power supply is good, meter between pin 26 of the PCM and a good frame ground. Double check the wiring harness TO the EVP sensor by checking for the same voltage at the BROWN/WHITE wire in the EVP connector in the wiring harness. If you have a good VREF voltage (5VDC approx.) then jump the BROWN/WHITE wire to the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire and check the voltage at pin 27 of the PCM. If you still have good VREF voltage, the problem does NOT lie in the wiring harness. You can do the "wiggle" test on the harness to make sure there are no weak or loose connections between the sensor connector and the PCM. To test the EVP sensor itself, probe the pins that connect to the aforementioned wires and run the test by applying vacuum as described in my previous post. As mentioned, the resistance should change smoothly as the vacuum is slowly released. If it does not, the EVP is bad. Note: Only run this test with the EVP sensor disconnected from the wiring harness or your readings will be tainted by the electronics in the PCM. One thing to note here is that the VREF feed for the EVP sensor splits off to both the TP (throttle position) sensor and the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor somewhere in the main harness between the firewall and the individual sensors. You might do well the check for damaged wires at all of these sensors just in case the harness is damaged and shorting at one of the other sensors being fed VREF..."
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B)
DTC 332, P1407 and P1408 or detonation ;"...We have run into many situations where a code for insufficient flow has been set and the system is functioning correctly. Then it is time to check the EGR passages. There is a Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 96-23-4) that addresses this for some vehicles. This TSB includes: 1992-1995 Crown Victoria 1994-1995 Thunderbird 1991-1995 Town Car 1992-1995 Grand Marquis 1994-1995 Cougar The concerns have to do with intermittent MILs; DTCs 332, P1407 and P1408; or detonation. If exercising the EGR valve does not result in a change in rpm, then the passages may be clogged. There are “U” shaped passages (Fig. 6) under the throttle body adapter that get clogged with carbon. Remove the adapter, clean the passages and reinstall with a new gasket. Just because the vehicle you are working on is not listed in the TSB doesn’t mean you may not have a clogging problem. Make sure you check the passages and be sure they are clean. Just a slight restriction can cause a flow code to be set, and you may still have an rpm drop that can mislead you..." Source: by tomco-inc.com
Ck vac lines
thanks for the help. thats some good info. i do have an exghuast leak very close to the o2. would this have an effect on it. i also have a code of 313 with engine running. but i dont think i have any cats anymore. this bronco has 236,000 miles on it. it appears to be original. the spring in my egr could be worn. i like this forum. its good to see other bronco owners.
yo,
Fix that exhaust leak; it may affect that code that didn't come out in 3 digit format; try to re-run the KOEO & KOER tests again
DTC 313 from Ford PCED/EVTM - indicates that Secondary Air is not being bypassed when requested
o, since the Cats are gone, that is the reason for this code
if cats are in there (look under passenger side...)
Possible causes:
Vacuum hoses damaged.
AIRB/AIRD valve inoperative. Air pump inoperative.
AIRB/AIRD solenoids damaged.
Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system.
Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. R
efer to VECI decal. Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt.
Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement.
Were any problems found? YES, SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO, to KC2
KC4 ATTEMPT TO ELIMINATE DTC 313
Disconnect vacuum line on AIRB valve (or right AIRB1 valve on 7.0L) and cap vacuum line.
Key off.
Repeat Engine Running Self-Test and record DTCs.
Is DTC 313 present?
Yes No
EEC-IV system OK. RECONNECT vacuum line. REFER to Section 13A to Diagnosis index . GO to KC5 .
KC5 CHECK AIRB AND AIRD SOLENOIDS ELECTRICAL OPERATION
DVOM on 20 volt scale.
Enter Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). Refer to Section 5A , Quick Test Appendix.
Disconnect AIRB solenoid.
Connect DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to AIRB circuit of AIRB vehicle harness connector.
While observing DVOM, depress and release the throttle several times (to cycle output On and Off).
Repeat for the AIRD solenoid.
Does each solenoid circuit cycle 0.5 volt or greater?
Yes No
GO to KC6 . REMOVE jumper. GO to KC10 .
KC6 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR INTERNAL VACUUM LEAKS
Remain in output state DTM.
Reconnect AIRD/AIRB harness connector.
Vacuum pump connected to the supply port and vacuum gauge connected to the output port of one solenoid.
Apply 15 in-Hg (51 kPa) vacuum and observe gauge.
Repeat steps above for the other solenoid.
Does vacuum gauge reading hold for each solenoid?
Yes No
GO to KC7 . REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.
KC7 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR VACUUM CYCLING
Continue in output state DTM.
Install vacuum pump to the AIRB solenoid vacuum supply port and install a vacuum gauge to the AIRB output port.
Apply 15 in-Hg vacuum.
While cycling outputs On and Off (by depressing and releasing throttle), observe the vacuum gauge at the output.
Note: Re-apply vacuum between cycles.
Repeat for AIRD solenoid. Connect vacuum pump to the AIRD solenoid vacuum supply port and connect a vacuum gauge to the AIRD output port.
Cycle output on and off.
Does each solenoid cycle vacuum output on and off?
Yes No
EXIT Output State DTM, RECONNECT vacuum hoses. REFER to Diagnosis Index in Section 13A. REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.
Fix that exhaust leak; it may affect that code that didn't come out in 3 digit format; try to re-run the KOEO & KOER tests again
DTC 313 from Ford PCED/EVTM - indicates that Secondary Air is not being bypassed when requested
o, since the Cats are gone, that is the reason for this code
if cats are in there (look under passenger side...)
Possible causes:
Vacuum hoses damaged.
AIRB/AIRD valve inoperative. Air pump inoperative.
AIRB/AIRD solenoids damaged.
Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system.
Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. R
efer to VECI decal. Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt.
Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement.
Were any problems found? YES, SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO, to KC2
KC4 ATTEMPT TO ELIMINATE DTC 313
Disconnect vacuum line on AIRB valve (or right AIRB1 valve on 7.0L) and cap vacuum line.
Key off.
Repeat Engine Running Self-Test and record DTCs.
Is DTC 313 present?
Yes No
EEC-IV system OK. RECONNECT vacuum line. REFER to Section 13A to Diagnosis index . GO to KC5 .
KC5 CHECK AIRB AND AIRD SOLENOIDS ELECTRICAL OPERATION
DVOM on 20 volt scale.
Enter Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). Refer to Section 5A , Quick Test Appendix.
Disconnect AIRB solenoid.
Connect DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to AIRB circuit of AIRB vehicle harness connector.
While observing DVOM, depress and release the throttle several times (to cycle output On and Off).
Repeat for the AIRD solenoid.
Does each solenoid circuit cycle 0.5 volt or greater?
Yes No
GO to KC6 . REMOVE jumper. GO to KC10 .
KC6 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR INTERNAL VACUUM LEAKS
Remain in output state DTM.
Reconnect AIRD/AIRB harness connector.
Vacuum pump connected to the supply port and vacuum gauge connected to the output port of one solenoid.
Apply 15 in-Hg (51 kPa) vacuum and observe gauge.
Repeat steps above for the other solenoid.
Does vacuum gauge reading hold for each solenoid?
Yes No
GO to KC7 . REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.
KC7 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR VACUUM CYCLING
Continue in output state DTM.
Install vacuum pump to the AIRB solenoid vacuum supply port and install a vacuum gauge to the AIRB output port.
Apply 15 in-Hg vacuum.
While cycling outputs On and Off (by depressing and releasing throttle), observe the vacuum gauge at the output.
Note: Re-apply vacuum between cycles.
Repeat for AIRD solenoid. Connect vacuum pump to the AIRD solenoid vacuum supply port and connect a vacuum gauge to the AIRD output port.
Cycle output on and off.
Does each solenoid cycle vacuum output on and off?
Yes No
EXIT Output State DTM, RECONNECT vacuum hoses. REFER to Diagnosis Index in Section 13A. REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.
thanks. it is showing a 334. i grounded the regulator and it made the idle very rough. this caused a 332 i believe. i thik my regulator is putting vaccume to the egr even after the computer is not calling for it, or the spring is bad in the egr. i will have to wait untill i can muster up some money. thanks for the help.
yo, YW
Try a yard that has a friendly owner who will let you pull & test new EVr's, etc. W/ a $ back guarantee.
If you want to go new;
Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com
Get Ford pn and google; I know that our Sponsor Jeff's Bronco Graveyard does nor stok the EGR valve or EVR...
Amazon has Ford dealers that offer great prices;
they are VG at delvy and esp pricing; I bought a $150.00 Motorcraft DPFE Sensor for $50.00 with free shipping and no sales tax; Local dealers wanted 150.0 + sales tax
same price & discount for an Idle Air Control (IAC)
GL
Try a yard that has a friendly owner who will let you pull & test new EVr's, etc. W/ a $ back guarantee.
If you want to go new;
Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com
Get Ford pn and google; I know that our Sponsor Jeff's Bronco Graveyard does nor stok the EGR valve or EVR...
Amazon has Ford dealers that offer great prices;
they are VG at delvy and esp pricing; I bought a $150.00 Motorcraft DPFE Sensor for $50.00 with free shipping and no sales tax; Local dealers wanted 150.0 + sales tax
same price & discount for an Idle Air Control (IAC)
GL
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