Assistance needed with post engine swap mess
- Thread starter smptx
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
yo,
THat CanP is an issue for sure; hopefully someone else here can chime in, esp if they have same yr and the 5.0
I have found pics though!
Engine Bay pic, Center from Front in an 89 5.0
Source: by Albatross1 at SuperMotors.net
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for
==
1989 5.0 by jason moore
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for...
==
89 5.0 by Waltman
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for...
==
I'll post this for now; will look for more pics asap
THat CanP is an issue for sure; hopefully someone else here can chime in, esp if they have same yr and the 5.0
I have found pics though!
Engine Bay pic, Center from Front in an 89 5.0
Source: by Albatross1 at SuperMotors.net
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for
==
1989 5.0 by jason moore
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for...
==
89 5.0 by Waltman
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for...
==
I'll post this for now; will look for more pics asap
yo, One more;
1989 5.0 by Mavman
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for
1989 5.0 by Brahma502
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for
1989 5.8
Has CanPpic by Brian S
1989 5.8
Has CanP VACUUM PORT & Hose
pic by Damon Garn
note that CanP is not in place
1989 5.0 by Mavman
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for
1989 5.0 by Brahma502
I DO NOT see a CANP, nor wiring for; Nor a Port for
1989 5.8
Has CanPpic by Brian S
1989 5.8
Has CanP VACUUM PORT & Hose
pic by Damon Garn
note that CanP is not in place
M5:
Thanks for all your efforts. I will continue to research. I am also looking on AutoTrader.co to see if anyone has similar vehicle for sale to go by in person and look at. I am beginning to believe that the 89 5.0 does not have a CANP electrically actiuacted solenoid. I pulled the calibration parts list and googled each engineering/part number and could not come up with an electrically actuated CANP valve. I guess for now I will extend the charcoal canister line to the throttle body, "T" off and hook up to the two male ports on driver's side of TB.
Update:
Thanks to M5, I will be relocating the PCV in the recommended position on my new upper intake. I found a ground # 49 (orange) not hooked up. It is ground for the HEGO. As a recap, so far we have found lower intake bolts "hand tight, the wrong lower and upper intake for the current SD setup, a very dirty/rusty coolant system, sludge in the vanished covered engine, an ACT sensor hooked up to the coolant system, foul smelling and rusty fuel in the system, and other "southern engineered" (I am from the South and can get away with that), findings.
The following continues to be a mstery withot further tearing the engine down and/or seeing pics of a similar factory setup:
1. The plumbing from the charcoal canister - after the single line routes toward the front of engine, it stops. Where does it goe from there? As a 89 5.0L with automatic OD trans., should it have an electrically acuated cannister purge valve? If so, where is the harness? If not, does it "T" off and hook to the top and bottom throttle body male ports on driver's side? Any other valves get hooked up in between? Its hard to believe that a continuous "uncontrolled" air source from canister to throttle body is delivering a constant non regulated air source to throttle body ports. Seems like would affect the idle when cold and warmed up . . .
2. Unable to identify exactly which 5.0 block is in this frankenstein bronco. Do I have a roller cam (steel vs. cast iron). After lookin at the uality of workmanship from this inherited mess and finding upper and lower intake off a 95 model, who knows . . .
BTW, my Ford Calibration # found near driver's door is 7-54E-Rll
Thanks for all your efforts. I will continue to research. I am also looking on AutoTrader.co to see if anyone has similar vehicle for sale to go by in person and look at. I am beginning to believe that the 89 5.0 does not have a CANP electrically actiuacted solenoid. I pulled the calibration parts list and googled each engineering/part number and could not come up with an electrically actuated CANP valve. I guess for now I will extend the charcoal canister line to the throttle body, "T" off and hook up to the two male ports on driver's side of TB.
Update:
Thanks to M5, I will be relocating the PCV in the recommended position on my new upper intake. I found a ground # 49 (orange) not hooked up. It is ground for the HEGO. As a recap, so far we have found lower intake bolts "hand tight, the wrong lower and upper intake for the current SD setup, a very dirty/rusty coolant system, sludge in the vanished covered engine, an ACT sensor hooked up to the coolant system, foul smelling and rusty fuel in the system, and other "southern engineered" (I am from the South and can get away with that), findings.
The following continues to be a mstery withot further tearing the engine down and/or seeing pics of a similar factory setup:
1. The plumbing from the charcoal canister - after the single line routes toward the front of engine, it stops. Where does it goe from there? As a 89 5.0L with automatic OD trans., should it have an electrically acuated cannister purge valve? If so, where is the harness? If not, does it "T" off and hook to the top and bottom throttle body male ports on driver's side? Any other valves get hooked up in between? Its hard to believe that a continuous "uncontrolled" air source from canister to throttle body is delivering a constant non regulated air source to throttle body ports. Seems like would affect the idle when cold and warmed up . . .
2. Unable to identify exactly which 5.0 block is in this frankenstein bronco. Do I have a roller cam (steel vs. cast iron). After lookin at the uality of workmanship from this inherited mess and finding upper and lower intake off a 95 model, who knows . . .
BTW, my Ford Calibration # found near driver's door is 7-54E-Rll
Last edited by a moderator:
Krafty
New member
sounds like for you it may be easier to convert to carb. or buy a parts f150 or bronco that is all original and merge the best of the two.
yo
RE; "1. The plumbing from the charcoal canister - after the single line routes toward the front of engine, it stops. Where does it go from there;
"
Fuel vapors from the fuel tank are stored in the charcoal canister until the engine is started @ which time the vapors will purge from the canister into the engine via TB for consumption
One line (It is a fuel resistant rubber vapor line) from fuel tank
and other fuel resistant rubber line (flows vapors) to Throttle Body as shown in your VECI Label w/Calibration #7-54E-Rll
Electr OP CANP Valve is not shown in diagram,
but go nack to VECI Label Site @ Ford and look at 89 5.8 diagrams; they do show the Canister Purge Regulator Valve (CPRV) bewtween cannister & TB
Here it is;
I believe this also answers your other Q related to the TB port
=========
2. Physical ID of roller vs "regular" notes from notebook; I have never found any official Ford info on this other than Ford saying to use Firing Order
I would go by what the distr gear is in there; if you believe that the distr is original to the block.
take a valve cover off & look down the push rod hole with a flash light & look at the top of the lifter, if you see a dog bone its a roller cam
pull one pushrod - Roller push rod in a 5.0 is 6.25" long, flat tappet rods are a half inch longer.
==========
I'll post now in case I lose Comcast again or the Zone freezes up
RE; "1. The plumbing from the charcoal canister - after the single line routes toward the front of engine, it stops. Where does it go from there;
"
Fuel vapors from the fuel tank are stored in the charcoal canister until the engine is started @ which time the vapors will purge from the canister into the engine via TB for consumption
One line (It is a fuel resistant rubber vapor line) from fuel tank
and other fuel resistant rubber line (flows vapors) to Throttle Body as shown in your VECI Label w/Calibration #7-54E-Rll
Electr OP CANP Valve is not shown in diagram,
but go nack to VECI Label Site @ Ford and look at 89 5.8 diagrams; they do show the Canister Purge Regulator Valve (CPRV) bewtween cannister & TB
Here it is;
I believe this also answers your other Q related to the TB port
=========
2. Physical ID of roller vs "regular" notes from notebook; I have never found any official Ford info on this other than Ford saying to use Firing Order
I would go by what the distr gear is in there; if you believe that the distr is original to the block.
take a valve cover off & look down the push rod hole with a flash light & look at the top of the lifter, if you see a dog bone its a roller cam
pull one pushrod - Roller push rod in a 5.0 is 6.25" long, flat tappet rods are a half inch longer.
==========
I'll post now in case I lose Comcast again or the Zone freezes up
Update:
Have the engine/emissions and everything else back together and thanks for all your help.
The ACT code 54 (KOEO)continues. Also get 54 and 98 during the KOER test. I replaced the ACT sensor 2 times, same problem, checked continuity of all wires from sensor to the computer and all good (using meter). The engine idles at 900 to 1000 RPMS cold. After thermostat opens, engine revs to 1400-1600 and stays. Coolant system in perfect condition. Outside air temps been averaging 95 F. No other codes. Checked ALL sensors and wiring. May be a bad computer. Opened computer and found a few dark spots (not burnt) on the circuit board. Have another computer on the way. Any other ideas? Why hi rev when thermostat opens?
Mark
Have the engine/emissions and everything else back together and thanks for all your help.
The ACT code 54 (KOEO)continues. Also get 54 and 98 during the KOER test. I replaced the ACT sensor 2 times, same problem, checked continuity of all wires from sensor to the computer and all good (using meter). The engine idles at 900 to 1000 RPMS cold. After thermostat opens, engine revs to 1400-1600 and stays. Coolant system in perfect condition. Outside air temps been averaging 95 F. No other codes. Checked ALL sensors and wiring. May be a bad computer. Opened computer and found a few dark spots (not burnt) on the circuit board. Have another computer on the way. Any other ideas? Why hi rev when thermostat opens?
Mark
Last edited by a moderator:
yo MARK,
DTC 98 Hard fault present; "...Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) FMEM is an alternate system strategy in the PCM designed to maintain vehicle operation should one or more sensor inputs fail. When a sensor input is perceived to be out-of-limits by the PCM, an alternative strategy will be initiated. The PCM will substitute a fixed in-limit sensor value and will continue to monitor the faulty sensor input. If the faulty sensor operates within limits, the PCM will return to the normal engine running strategy. Engine Running DTC 98 or 998 will be displayed when FMEM is in effect. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)/Message will remain on when FMEM is in effect. The MIL will come on while the engine is operating in Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) or Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) modes. The light will stay on for at least 10 seconds, then stay on as long as the fault causing it is present. If the MIL flashes quickly (less than 10 seconds), the MIL circuit should be checked for concerns. Refer to «Quick Test». In FMEM mode, the PCM is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode, the PCM uses an alternate engine control strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The DTC associated with this fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and the vehicle will return to the normal vehicle strategy. The DTC stored when the light was on is kept in Continuous Memory for the next 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) and then erased.
So, DTC 54 will need more attention other than swapping ACTs; try the test by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=29
and check what other items he suggests;
of the following items will affect the ACT:
•Coolant level
•Radiator Fan
•Engine Temperature
•Ambient temperature
•Air Filter
•Air Filter to Throttle Body Duct
•Water pump and Fan Belts
•Thermostat
•EGR System
•Engines general condition
•Harness and wire general condition
DTC 98 Hard fault present; "...Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) FMEM is an alternate system strategy in the PCM designed to maintain vehicle operation should one or more sensor inputs fail. When a sensor input is perceived to be out-of-limits by the PCM, an alternative strategy will be initiated. The PCM will substitute a fixed in-limit sensor value and will continue to monitor the faulty sensor input. If the faulty sensor operates within limits, the PCM will return to the normal engine running strategy. Engine Running DTC 98 or 998 will be displayed when FMEM is in effect. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)/Message will remain on when FMEM is in effect. The MIL will come on while the engine is operating in Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) or Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) modes. The light will stay on for at least 10 seconds, then stay on as long as the fault causing it is present. If the MIL flashes quickly (less than 10 seconds), the MIL circuit should be checked for concerns. Refer to «Quick Test». In FMEM mode, the PCM is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode, the PCM uses an alternate engine control strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The DTC associated with this fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and the vehicle will return to the normal vehicle strategy. The DTC stored when the light was on is kept in Continuous Memory for the next 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) and then erased.
So, DTC 54 will need more attention other than swapping ACTs; try the test by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=29
and check what other items he suggests;
of the following items will affect the ACT:
•Coolant level
•Radiator Fan
•Engine Temperature
•Ambient temperature
•Air Filter
•Air Filter to Throttle Body Duct
•Water pump and Fan Belts
•Thermostat
•EGR System
•Engines general condition
•Harness and wire general condition
Update:
1989 FSB 5.0L AOD. Everything working properly now. The ACT issue turned out to be a bad computer. Now I have an interesting issue. After the Bronco is warmed up if traveling down the road, come to a stop light with AC on, factory oil pressure (idiot) gage goes to low, engine light goes on and off. No engine noises (chatter, etc) associated with the low oil pressure. If I turn the AC off, oil pressure comes back up to normal and no engine light. Change the oil and filter with no luck - same problem. My idle RPMs with AC off is around 875. With AC on, it drops to 700
When idling in driveway with engine warmed up, with AC on, oil pressure is fine. If i hit the accelerator (again, I am in park at idle in my driveway), the engine revs up , but when it winds down, RPMs temporarily go to 200, engine light temorarilly comes on and then off on its way back back up to 700 with AC on. If I do the same thing with accelerator with AC off, the engine will not bog down to 200 rpm before returning to 875.
Engine has unknown mileage on swap out. Odometer shows 26,000 (probably 126,000). I rev engine to 2000 rpms and it is smooth, no vibrations to indicate bad bearings. Also when I accelerate on roadway, the HVAC temporarily moves airflow to defroster and then eventually switches back to selected vents. Checked vacuum lines, all good.
Any ideas?
1989 FSB 5.0L AOD. Everything working properly now. The ACT issue turned out to be a bad computer. Now I have an interesting issue. After the Bronco is warmed up if traveling down the road, come to a stop light with AC on, factory oil pressure (idiot) gage goes to low, engine light goes on and off. No engine noises (chatter, etc) associated with the low oil pressure. If I turn the AC off, oil pressure comes back up to normal and no engine light. Change the oil and filter with no luck - same problem. My idle RPMs with AC off is around 875. With AC on, it drops to 700
When idling in driveway with engine warmed up, with AC on, oil pressure is fine. If i hit the accelerator (again, I am in park at idle in my driveway), the engine revs up , but when it winds down, RPMs temporarily go to 200, engine light temorarilly comes on and then off on its way back back up to 700 with AC on. If I do the same thing with accelerator with AC off, the engine will not bog down to 200 rpm before returning to 875.
Engine has unknown mileage on swap out. Odometer shows 26,000 (probably 126,000). I rev engine to 2000 rpms and it is smooth, no vibrations to indicate bad bearings. Also when I accelerate on roadway, the HVAC temporarily moves airflow to defroster and then eventually switches back to selected vents. Checked vacuum lines, all good.
Any ideas?
Last edited by a moderator:
yo,
Good!
EEC's rearely are the issue, but in this Bronco...
The oil pressgauge operates through a pressure activated switch. and in not a true gauge unless that prev owner(s) or "mechanic" swapped in a true gauge & sender or did a little mod to the ckt.
When the engine is started engine oil pressure closes the switch, providing a ground circuit for the gauge coil. Current flow through the gauge coil to ground causes the primary magnet and pointer to rotate, providing an oil pressure reading on the dial face
The oil pressure switch controls the magnetic oil pressure gauge's pointer position. The oil pressure switch closes under normal engine operating conditions (oil pressure above 42 kPa [6 lb/sq in]). The oil pressure switch opens with the engine (6007) off and no oil pressure.
&
These vehicles do not really have what we would call a conventional oil pressure gauge. The sending unit that is used is not a variable resistance unit. It is merely an On-Off switch. There is a fixed resistance in the dash gauge that will cause the needle to deflect a certain amount regardless of the actual oil pressure. So, it does not matter how high or low the pressure, in any case, the gauge will read the same, as long as there is sufficient oil pressure to close the switch. Any time there is a question of oil pressure, the first step is to ignore what the gauge reads and verify the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. Once you have eliminated a mechanical problem, then concentrate on the electrical part. On these vehicles, if you have eliminated the mechanical problem, and, have replaced the oil pressure sender with no improvement in the gauge reading, Ford recommends that you use a 20 ohm resistor in line between the sending unit and the gauge. Installation of the resistor will stabilize the gauge reading and eliminate the customer concern..." MIESK5 Note, see how to install the resistor in Link below
Mod to Actual PSI "...short R in PCB..." in 87-88 F series trucks and Broncos
Source: by Mike & Debbie http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/FordOilPressureGaugeFix.htm
OR
Installation, Sunpro Mechanical, w/T for stock gauge Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4970/22156
Source: by Bob R
========
re; "...when I accelerate on roadway, the HVAC temporarily moves airflow to defroster and then eventually switches back to selected vents. Checked vacuum lines, all good..."
most often it is a vacuum leak in line to Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor (originally a White vac hose) or the line to and including the door "vacuum motors"
The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit.
Or could be @ other vac controlled / operated components such as PCV line, emission ckt, cruise control if equipped
see more @ http://broncozone.com/topic/22770-low-idle/
Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor pic in an 89; Shiny piece in upper left
Source: by Booba5185 (Matt) at http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb57/irpancake1/bronco/cid_642.jpg
Floor/Defrost, Panel, Temperature Blend (cable controlled), Outside Recirculate Air Doors & Vacuum Motors Location Diagram & Overview in an 86; from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Partial, Bronco for 86; see Pages 141, 142 & 143 should be = to your year
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/Misc/
Good!
EEC's rearely are the issue, but in this Bronco...
The oil pressgauge operates through a pressure activated switch. and in not a true gauge unless that prev owner(s) or "mechanic" swapped in a true gauge & sender or did a little mod to the ckt.
When the engine is started engine oil pressure closes the switch, providing a ground circuit for the gauge coil. Current flow through the gauge coil to ground causes the primary magnet and pointer to rotate, providing an oil pressure reading on the dial face
The oil pressure switch controls the magnetic oil pressure gauge's pointer position. The oil pressure switch closes under normal engine operating conditions (oil pressure above 42 kPa [6 lb/sq in]). The oil pressure switch opens with the engine (6007) off and no oil pressure.
&
These vehicles do not really have what we would call a conventional oil pressure gauge. The sending unit that is used is not a variable resistance unit. It is merely an On-Off switch. There is a fixed resistance in the dash gauge that will cause the needle to deflect a certain amount regardless of the actual oil pressure. So, it does not matter how high or low the pressure, in any case, the gauge will read the same, as long as there is sufficient oil pressure to close the switch. Any time there is a question of oil pressure, the first step is to ignore what the gauge reads and verify the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. Once you have eliminated a mechanical problem, then concentrate on the electrical part. On these vehicles, if you have eliminated the mechanical problem, and, have replaced the oil pressure sender with no improvement in the gauge reading, Ford recommends that you use a 20 ohm resistor in line between the sending unit and the gauge. Installation of the resistor will stabilize the gauge reading and eliminate the customer concern..." MIESK5 Note, see how to install the resistor in Link below
Mod to Actual PSI "...short R in PCB..." in 87-88 F series trucks and Broncos
Source: by Mike & Debbie http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/FordOilPressureGaugeFix.htm
OR
Installation, Sunpro Mechanical, w/T for stock gauge Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4970/22156
Source: by Bob R
========
re; "...when I accelerate on roadway, the HVAC temporarily moves airflow to defroster and then eventually switches back to selected vents. Checked vacuum lines, all good..."
most often it is a vacuum leak in line to Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor (originally a White vac hose) or the line to and including the door "vacuum motors"
The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit.
Or could be @ other vac controlled / operated components such as PCV line, emission ckt, cruise control if equipped
see more @ http://broncozone.com/topic/22770-low-idle/
Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor pic in an 89; Shiny piece in upper left
Source: by Booba5185 (Matt) at http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb57/irpancake1/bronco/cid_642.jpg
Floor/Defrost, Panel, Temperature Blend (cable controlled), Outside Recirculate Air Doors & Vacuum Motors Location Diagram & Overview in an 86; from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Partial, Bronco for 86; see Pages 141, 142 & 143 should be = to your year
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/Misc/
yo,
Is gauge connected to intake manifold tree?
---------
could be misfire or internal (valve) issue
Compare to;
by realfixesrealfast
======
and..
Is gauge connected to intake manifold tree?
---------
could be misfire or internal (valve) issue
Compare to;
======
and..
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, I had it hooked to the intake tree. I may do the "Seafoam" through the brake booster vac and see if I can free up the possible sticking vales.
Last edited by a moderator:
Rons beast
Active member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2007
- Messages
- 1,537
- Reaction score
- 14
Hey SMPTX,
I have to hand it to you. You don't give up on this stuff....like a pitbull you latch on and stay.
anywho...it looks like you are using a mityvac vacuum pump gauge, and the line has a little kink.
Don't trust this...go get a regular vacuum gauge. and be sure you are reading manifold vacuum.
That bouncing is too bad to rely on a mityvac guage.
I have to hand it to you. You don't give up on this stuff....like a pitbull you latch on and stay.
anywho...it looks like you are using a mityvac vacuum pump gauge, and the line has a little kink.
Don't trust this...go get a regular vacuum gauge. and be sure you are reading manifold vacuum.
That bouncing is too bad to rely on a mityvac guage.
RB, excellent idea! I rented that one from AZ. Will go to Harbor Freight and buy a real vac guage. I am overhauling entire cooling system (rusted up badly). Not sure how ANY water made it through the radiator cooling jackets. Found bottom bolt of water pump missing. Why am I not surpised! Thinking of installing a 160 degree fail safe thermostat.
Last edited by a moderator:
yo
GOOD EYE RON!
yo smptx;
Ford calls for a 190 F thermostat in the 89 5.0
RT-1139
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1989&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search
Gasket Ford pn is RG-605
I'd hook a vac gauge to dash and keep in-place; can use clutch blank w'grommet for hose
GOOD EYE RON!
yo smptx;
Ford calls for a 190 F thermostat in the 89 5.0
RT-1139
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1989&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search
Gasket Ford pn is RG-605
I'd hook a vac gauge to dash and keep in-place; can use clutch blank w'grommet for hose
Miesk5:
Sorry for the delay, good ole Comcast acting up again. I want the 160 for the hot azzed Texas summer, will reinstall the 190 this winter. Great idea on the vac location. Bronco in hospital at Brakecheck after one of their techs beat the shi* out of the right spindle with hammer and screwdriver. Will update later.
yo,
Best bet is from a Yard Queen
or wire it up
here is the 89 Wiring Diagram
http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1989_41.gif
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
One side to
Pin 6 VSS (-)
& common ground G801
G801 is located on the LH inner fender behind the headlamp
other to EEC Pin 3
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
EEC PIN Legend
http://oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
PIN 3 VSS (+)
Pin 6 VSS (-)
All summarized @
http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/EFI_harness3.gif
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
Ryan also has the connector & pigtail for $10.00
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/pigtails-connectors/products/vss-con
--
For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.mypartshop.com/
Select All Parts
year, etc, then FORD TRUCK
or
http://www.copartfinder.com
Has Vehicle Pics!
http://www.picknpull.com
http://www.car-parts.com/
Also for obsolete parts;
Our Sponsor here has been adding some to inventory; Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
http://broncograveyard.com
and: by Ford pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
http://www.greensalescompany.com
Best bet is from a Yard Queen
or wire it up
here is the 89 Wiring Diagram
http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1989_41.gif
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
One side to
Pin 6 VSS (-)
& common ground G801
G801 is located on the LH inner fender behind the headlamp
other to EEC Pin 3
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
EEC PIN Legend
http://oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
PIN 3 VSS (+)
Pin 6 VSS (-)
All summarized @
http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/EFI_harness3.gif
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
Ryan also has the connector & pigtail for $10.00
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/pigtails-connectors/products/vss-con
--
For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.mypartshop.com/
Select All Parts
year, etc, then FORD TRUCK
or
http://www.copartfinder.com
Has Vehicle Pics!
http://www.picknpull.com
http://www.car-parts.com/
Also for obsolete parts;
Our Sponsor here has been adding some to inventory; Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
http://broncograveyard.com
and: by Ford pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
http://www.greensalescompany.com
Similar threads
Members online
No members online now.
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
3 dangers I found out working on my 78 bronco--and maybe yours too
- Latest: 79' Buckin Bronco
