yo J,
FYI,
Troubleshooting and Testing Electrical Systems with a Multi meter
excerpt;
"VOLTAGE
This test determines voltage available from the battery and should be the first step in any electrical troubleshooting procedure after visual inspection. Many electrical problems, especially on computer controlled systems, can be caused by a low state of charge in the battery. Excessive corrosion at the battery cable terminals can cause poor contact that will prevent proper charging and full battery current flow.
1.Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20V position.
2.Connect the multi meter negative lead to the battery's negative (-) post or terminal and the positive lead to the battery's positive (+) post or terminal.
3.Turn the ignition switch ON to provide a load.
4.A well charged battery should register over 12 volts. If the meter reads below 11.5 volts, the battery power may be insufficient to operate the electrical system properly.
VOLTAGE DROP
When current flows through a load, the voltage beyond the load drops. This voltage drop is due to the resistance created by the load and also by small resistance's created by corrosion at the connectors and damaged insulation on the wires. The maximum allowable voltage drop under load is critical, especially if there is more than one load in the circuit, since all voltage drops are cumulative.
1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20 volt position.
2. Connect the multi meter negative lead to a good ground.
3. Operate the circuit and check the voltage prior to the first component (load).
4. There should be little or no voltage drop in the circuit prior to the first component. If a voltage drop exists, the wire or connectors in the circuit are suspect.
5. While operating the first component in the circuit, probe the ground side of the component with the positive meter lead and observe the voltage readings. A small voltage drop should be noticed. This voltage drop is caused by the resistance of the component.
6. Repeat the test for each component (load) down the circuit.
7. If a large voltage drop is noticed, the preceding component, wire or connector is suspect.
Testing if a diode is OK
A diode is like a one-way valve. It should allow the current to only flow in one direction and prevent the current from flowing in the other direction. A good diode should show continuity in one direction and no continuity (or over range) in the other.
Do not test the diode whilst there is an external voltage (eg solar panel) connected as this will effect the outcome and possibly damage the meter.
Connect the probes to the device you want to check and
note the meter reading. Reverse the probes and note the second reading. If the one reading shows some value and the other is over range, the device is good. If both readings are over range, the device is faulty (open circuit). If both readings are very small or zero, the device is also faulty (short circuit).
Testing for Continuity
In order to measure continuity you need to have a voltage source. If there is a poor connection or a break in the house wiring it can often be located by tracing the wires from the battery bank outwards and using the battery bank as your voltage source.
With the meter on the appropriate voltage scale start by measuring the voltage at the battery. Now move to the next location where you can connect your probes as you head towards the possible location of the fault.
If at any point you measure no voltage then there is a break in the wiring between the previous test point and this one.
If you measure a drastic voltage drop (particularly with a small load turned on) this may indicate a poor connection such as a wire that is almost broken, corrosion in a connector or a wire, or it may be due to undersized wiring."
Measure voltage @ battery POSTS with engine off and all posts and terminals Clean and tight.
- should be over 12 volts DC.
Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the battery should be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)..."
Source: by Gordon via miesk5
PW Master Switch Ground is G752 as shown here;
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=27268
But I can't find a location for it; does the Left hand Poer Lock works? It shares same Ground.
ok so here it is the windows use the same power and ground for both sides, just checking but both sides wont go down, if both sides wont do down you have a problem with the ground after the switch, i have a wiring diagram with the problem area circled, the open is after the switch but before the splice do your self a favor and check the wiring to the switch the splice is supposed to be close to the switch, you may have power you may not have ground, think of electricity as water for water to flow it needs to have a entrance and and exit, does that make sense
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />>-It has been my experince with the Rear window that most of the Problems have been in the Dash switch. I went to the Bone yard and gathered up a used one and took it apart to understand why mine was not always contacting and after close inspection and a small amount of spring adjustment it worked like new...
