94' 5.8L will not start

[BLADE262US]

Being a 94 it should have that little gear reduction starter on it that too has a solenoid so you will have two of them you hear one clicking but the other one may not be pulling in . I have no idea why they did it that way but you have your positive wire coming from the battery hokked to one side of the solenoid on the firewall the other side will go down to the starter solenoid and the other sid eof that actually goes to the motor so if they dont both pull in you will not crank . You can check with a test light to see where the power flow is stopping but having the battery hooked up backwards is by no means good . Good luck /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[widersturbo]

That single click when you turn the key usually means you got a bad connection some where. Check no clean the battery terminals where the wires connect to the terminal and where the terminal connects to the battery follow the ground back to where it connects to the body and to where it connects to the engine clean all these connections and ensuer that they are tight. Follow the red,positive to the starter silinoid ( this is what you are hearing click) clean the connections on both sides continue following this to the starter clean and tighten. in all you probably only have 7 connections that could cause this problem. By clean i mean dis-assemble scrub with wire brush spray with brake cleaner reassemble. while you are doing all this have the battery out sitting on a block of wood with your charger set on med -low setting that way you know that you have a good charge on the battery when you put it back in. re-assemble connections re-install battery get dad to hit the key if it does not spin over (witch it should) you need to check to see if the starter silinoid is making connection useing a test light or Digital volt/ohm meter.should have power/12volts on both post of the silinoid when the key is in the start position also at same time should have power/12volts at the connection on the starter. hope this helps keep us posted

Its not a starter click though...

Battery is brand new, and the cables are new as well.

Im going to swing down again tomorrow, I will make sure the connections are tight down by the starter though.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Also take a look at your little wires they're the ones that would be most likely to get crunchy.

Also once you do get her started, check your charging system. This gal did the same thing and fried her alternator.

http://www.ford-forums.com/electrical-ligh...ew-seconds.html

 

[BLADE262US]

Well Steve83 I beg to differ that starter most certainly is a gear reduction starter maybe it doesnt look the same as the one in the catalogs but notice the area I have circled in the pic you posted . That is called a planetary gear set and it reduces the RPM and increases the torque in exactly the same way as the Transfer case does when its shifted into 4 LO . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

STARTER.bmp

 

[widersturbo]

Okay just got down to check out the van today. Same thing, just a click and not even turning over.

So, checked and have battery positive voltage to the starter, and the little yellow wire that runs to it, whem my dad would attempt to crank the engine, it would have voltage as well, so my power going to the starter is good.

I turned the motor over by hand at the crank, so I know the motor is not locked up.

And I confirmed it is not the startes that is making this one click, it is some type of solenoid mounted on the body behind the drivers side headlamp. Has a couple wires running to it.

So my question is now, what the heck is that solenoid for?

 

[BLADE262US]

There are 2 relays on these models for who knows why . When they went to that gear reduction starter they left the one on the fender well . When you turn the key to the crank position both relays have to pull in the one on the fender well supplies power to the one on the starter and both activation wires must have 12 volts present for those 2 relays to pull in . You more than likely have one relay with bad contacts when that one on the fender well clicks it should have 12 volts present on both of the big lugs so you need to check that and if it does then check at the relay on the starter . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[widersturbo]

If every terminal on the starter has 12V, then all the relays are working, regardless of how many there are, or where they are. If the starter doesn't spin when all its terminals have 12V, the starter is bad.

Come to think about it, I cant remember if I had power at the smaller wire going to the relay on the firewall. I must have 12v there though since the relay is making the clicking noise. I know for fact I had the constant 12v from the battery at the starter and 12v showing when my pops was trying to crank the motor over. So if I had 12v at the starter when trying to crank, that should mean I had 12v to the relay on the firewall. Looks like I will be pulling that out this weekend and exchanging it for another. That must just be coincidence that the starter went out right when my dad replaced the battery, weird. It must be locked up, cuz it wont even spin the motor over at all.

 

[90windsor]

Dam good work you did not loose the war. You are not the first to reverse the firing order seems almost un natural to go counter clockwise

i have also done the same thing. from an alldata printout i grabbed from my tech school. it would run but it sounded like it had a big cam and backfired like crazy. took a while to figure out exactly what was wrong.

stupid alldata... <_<