Very hard water here in AZ but I usually use the premixed type of coolant. The last time the mechanic had it and i dont know what they use.From the 'For What It's Worth' Department - sounds like the lower hose... at any rate, always use distilled water when mixing 50% with coolant. I've read that when mixing with hard water (high mineral content tap water) it can combine with the coolant and form a cement like substance on the water jackets inside the engine block and severely reduce heat transfer, causing the engine to run hot. I just put new hoses on my '93 and didn't check for the spring. Doh!
1996 5.8l Bronco Overheating
- Thread starter Bronco MC
- Start date
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Motech
Well-known member
Confessional here:
In 40 years working in and owning auto repair shops, all in large urban areas with municipal water supplies, straight coolant has always been cut 50/50 with tap water.
I've only seen a shift avoiding tap water since Y2K. With all the different formulas demanded from different manufacturers, and the incompatibility between blends, many shops are stocking pre-mix to avoid any questions of tap vs distilled.
Also, basic flushing has been banned here in California (I'm sure many other places too) unless expensive, recirculating systems are used. Not many shops make that investment.
Thankfully, the advancements made in coolant technology have really limited corrosive effects, and most coolant will truly last 120,000 miles.
In the instances where a flush is necessary, like when coolant types have been mixed, pneumatic coolant exchangers do an excellent job of extracting all the fluid in one smooth operation via vacuum. It also pulls the empty system into a vacuum for refill in a manner that completely eliminates any burping needed for air pockets, both below AND above the coolant fill level.
AirLift is the most popular brand, more durable than most competitors. At $200.00 retail and requiring an air compressor, it's not really sensible for many home mechanics. But if you have a compressor, and you find yourself draining and refilling coolant more than a couple times a year, it's a worthy investment that can be found for about $150.00 online.
I went and had the bottom radiator hose changed with a new oem hose. It did have a spring inside and was a heavy duty hose. The temps went up gradually, not like they did before when they jumped up to the l on normal on the guage. They didn’t get to the L this time but just a bit above the center. I’m hoping this is the ticket.
wyo58
Member
When it is supposedly running hot, does the temp gauge climb up and go back down? Or does it just stay up high? I have seen the gauge go up and down and even turn the heater on to see if it was really happening and sure enough the heater would go cold when the gauge went down. Bad news is it was a leaking head gasket putting exhaust gasses in the cooling system. If the gauge is correct I have seen problems similar to this with a malfunctioning fan clutch. Good luck, keep at it you will find the answer!
goodO1boydws
Active member
IF you have automatic trans. and IF it still runs hot sporatically, and especally if it never happens when running at idle or in park or neutral you might want to check the transmission fluid condition-color/smell for evidence of the trans overheating. Its possible that the trans is slipping under certain conditions and if so it could be dumping a lot of extra heat into the cooling system-ONLY when that happens.
johnnyreb
Well-known member
Welcome to the club. Have you felt the heater hoses . When it gets hot? Try switching the hoses around on the heater core. You might have a stopped up heater core. Have you checked the timing? Both can cause one to get hot. You have checked alot and shouldn,t be far from finding the answer. Good luck and keep us posted.
