89 351W Problems

[Mudslinger91]

The truck is a 3/4 ton, I'm thinking it's a Dana 50/60, judging by the site, it seems to point me in that direction. Is there a site where I can look this up to be 100% sure what my truck specs are?

 

[Seabronc]

If your truck configuration is original un altered, you should be able to tell that from the axle code that is on the tag on the B-Post.

>-

 

[Mudslinger91]

Seabronc, where is that at on my truck?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I looked up the specs; TTB Dana 50 axles - read more @ http://www.ford-f250.com/

Confirm @

Cover Gasket Depiction

http://web.archive.org/web/20100327194021/http://www.usgear.com/tl/dana2.htm

10 Bolt Cover

Pinion Diameter 1.376" 26 Spline

4.10 & Numerically Lower

Vehicle Model Year

F250 & F350 FRONT

78-97

Identification & pic, IFS



; "...can be differentiated from D44IFSs by the "50" cast into the third member, and the leaf spring suspension. Some D44IFS-HDs were leaf-sprung..."

Source: by Steve http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/71645

also see the Parts Break-Out Diagram

 

[Seabronc]

There should be a tag on the B-post as you open the driver side door which gives stuff like color code, axle code, etc.  It is possible that someone painted over it if the truck has been repainted.

http://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech/ford_axle_codes.shtml

 

[miesk5]

yo,

"Door Jamb Label (Certification Label, also referred to as the Patent Plate, Data Plate & the Warranty Plate) pic on Driver Side Door Jamb;

Bronco rear from 85 & 90 Owner's Manuals; Note, I'll add that the axle code for some years (Maybe all ) adds a 2 after the limited slip code if the front is also limited slip. So the code "H9" is a 3.55:1 limited slip rear axle only. "H92" would be a 3.55:1 limited slip on both axles. by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)

If you have 3 digits on your axle code the first two digits are the rear axle code. Thus, looking at my pics above and cross-referencing the chart above my '90 came from the factory w/3.55's and Ford's sorry excuse for a limited slip differential, the Crap-Lok, er I mean Trak-Lok.

Now, to know if the front diff is open or limited slip I'm ass-uming you have to look for a tag on the diff, as there is no "front axle code" on the door jamb sticker..."

Source: by Ford & Helm via Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) at

http://web.archive.org/web/20020220012159/http://90bronco.homestead.com/axlecode.html

OPEN this URL to see the Codes and Label Pic

 

[Seabronc]

If you are considering an electric fan, look through this thread: http://broncozone.com/topic/24407-gradually-rising-temperature

 

[Mudslinger91]

Ok, so I have a Dana 50, cool, that's a really good, reliable, strong front end. So, I got my new water pump, fan clutch, fan in, and got everything back on, new belt on. Next is to a salvage yard for some of the hoses to the heater core and throttle body from the water pump (old ones fused to things, got something for that now /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />) and to get a rad, and starter solenoid, and then to pick up a few feet of vac line at our parts store and replace a few of them things. Keep yall posted on that

 

[Mudslinger91]

Crap-Lok®© trademarked by miesk5

 

[Mudslinger91]

And seabronc, I am more than considering an E fan, just need to get my B24 prop working again first, went to AZ and got a duralast severe duty water pump, and a Torqflo severe duty fan clutch, waiting for my truck to sound like a flight of B24 liberators taking off at 100% military power when it kicks on

 

[Mudslinger91]

Got some rad flush, prestone concentrate coolant, BAR rad repair 2 in 1, and the next thing is a junk yard rad, starter solenoid, and a heater core to WP hose and Intake to WP hose, then about 5 feet of vac line to replace some of those *******

 

[Mudslinger91]

Ok, truck ran good for about 15 mins, drove for five mins, and the thing stutters and shuts off. Tried Turing her over, no go, starter goes, turns engine, but no fire. CEL started bugging out like mad. Please help me, I need ideas asap

 

[miesk5]

yo Mud,

For 89, Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

see my post on page 1 for the RL and general instructions;

post any Code(s) found here by KOEO;

if you get it running long enuf to reach normal operating temperature, KOER

 

[Mudslinger91]

Got it fixed, only code I'm getting now is 134 (O2 sensor on exhaust is disconnected due to it going bad and causing issues) now to get hood pins for the hood cause I am not putting that thing back on. It was **** enough to take off, lol. Thanks yall. Oh, fiance is about to be the proud owner of a 1990 Bronco 5.8, black paint, tan interior, clean as a whistle, taken care of, not pushed (until she gets it) she's excited, I'm excited, Broncos are amazing 4x4s, so is my big ol F250, but I feel cheated cause shes getting a better truck /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[miesk5]

yo Mud, Great!

Ford does not show 134 for your 90; redo Self Test again or do this as shown by Steve

"..This is a cheap & easy upgrade to any EEC-IV vehicle: a simple jumper wire twisted into the harness behind the DLC makes pulling codes or triggering the fuel pump relay quick & convenient. Scratch the terminal identifications into the plastic connector shells..."

@

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/862996

Have your GF register and post here in Intro section along w/ all the 1990 Bronco 5.8 specs.

 

[Mudslinger91]

Ok, now I am having a crank no start problem.not getting spark from the coil, going to be testing the distributor mounted ICM, and checking voltage on everything. I should be getting 10-12 volts DC to those two parts, if push comes to shove, I will hot wire the coil so I can work atleast delivering auto parts from warehouse to shops with $100+ daily pay which means I can then afford to replace my ignition system completely hopefully. What are the best ignition parts to get for power?

 

[miesk5]

yo Mud,

I still prefer Motorcraft, including the coil;
Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes
Source: by SeattleFSB
"Many Bronco owners shop for an ignition coil by looking for the highest voltage available. But I venture to say that there is much more to look for in achieving both a quality ignition system and saving money in the long run.

For clarification, it takes approximately 10-14,000 volts to initiate the spark across the OEM spark plug gap. After the initial arc, the voltage required to sustain the arc is much less and drops off significantly. So while you may have a 48,000v coil you can't actually get that across the plug. The extra power becomes reserve voltage which compensates for worn plugs, increasing resistance in wires and carbon fouling. This increased stress can require an additional 1-5000 volts.
Fact is a higher voltage coil does not work any better, it just lasts longer due to having a higher reserve reducing heat. You cannot push more than 20,000 volts across a spark plug without bad things happening. If you were to try you would see arcing down the side of the plug, across carbon buildups at the electrode end and out any weak points in the wire insulation and connections.

The bottom line is the ideal coil output required for normal applications is about 30,000 volts. So no, your coil does not need to be 48,000v for proper ignition. The benefit would be in having enough reserve to compensate for high resistance due to a worn or altered ignition system.

This is why the Sixlitre Tune recommends a 48,000v coil and larger spark plug wires – to compensate for a substantial increase in resistance from larger than specified spark plug gaps. You are adding resistance as the spark attempts to reach ground. This in turn causes the plug wires to break down and decreases the service life of the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and increases the chance of spark scatter within the Distributor Cap.

Think about it, you are setting your spark plugs at a maximum gap even before wear. The higher voltage coil does not reduce stress and wear on your ignition system; it only compensates within a larger margin and then ultimately becomes dependent upon the quality of construction for survival. When opening up your spark plug gap from factory specifications you must be prepared to check your secondary ignition system annually, as opposed to about 40,000 miles with a stock vehicle, or risk performance decreases down the road.

With that being said, IMHO the Motorcraft DG470 TFI Coil is one of the most dependable 48,000v TFI Coils on the market. This is largely due to the quality in design, testing and construction. I have personally had many dependability issues with other imported TFI Coils, such as MSD. Where a Motorcraft Coil has lasted 15 years, I have went through three MSD coils in five years. Your purchase of a TFI Coil should not be totally dependent upon the voltage, but strong consideration should also be made regarding the contruction attributes listed below:

Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes
Insulation - Multiple coats on the primary and secondary windings to ensure no internal arcing
Radio-Frequency Interference (RFI) Suppression - Minimize electronic noise
Magnets - Hold strength for the coil to maintain proper energy output
Steel - Used in the lamination stack to ensure a consistent magnetic field needed to develop the required voltage
Coil Housing - Engineered to withstand extremes in temperature without cracking"
==========

Sixlitre Tune-Up Info, "...=stock timing is 10 degrees, I find optimum timing to be almost exactly 13.5 but you can play around until you notice ping and then back off 2 degrees if you want to, and/or tune by vacuum if you care to. Cheapest Autolites money can buy, nuthin' platinum, nuthin' fancy, just set out to .055 gap...";
you should open up the plug gap to .055 when slapping on the new wires, cap & rotor and MSD coil.
I found the FMS wires were a direct, easy fit on my 1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0 litre.
Spend the big bucks on the best plug wires you can afford.

A control box does add "some" improvements, maybe 10-15% of the overall improvement from these mods and smooths things out a bit.

Truth is the coil, wires, wider plug gaps, cap & rotor are responsible for 85-90% of the improvement IMHO. So bearing that in mind, if you want to spend all that extra money for a possible 10-15% improvement, then go right ahead.

I did have an MSD-6 on mine, that's what I'm basing these unscientific estimate on. The F#@*Ing thing spent more time in the mail back and forth to Texas so I just said enough and left it on the bench.

I've heard encouraging things about the Crane unit, but remember the box is not where the majority of the improvements came from.

Do the timing bump as soon as you can after adding the parts



miesk5 Note, info is for vacuum advance distributors
If your vacuum canister isn't adjustable, get one aftermarket, your mileage jump will pay for it. Better have good plug wires and gap plugs to Ford or MSD specs.
==================


How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1

 

[Mudslinger91]

Ok, bought and installed a new ICM, still no start, PIP is good, getting gas to all 8 cylinders, only other thing I can think of is the damn coil

 

[miesk5]

yo,

How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1

Difference Between a No Start and a No Crank

Since a lot of folks confuse a no crank condition with a no start condition... I'll clear it up right now:

In a no start condition (also known as a cranks but does not start)... your vehicle's starter motor is cranking the engine but the engine is not starting. This is usually due to a lack of spark, or fuel, or engine compression and in this article I'm gonna' explain in some detail how to diagnose this type of condition/problem.

In a no crank condition, the engine is not cranking when you turn the key to crank the engine. In other words, you turn the key and nothing happens... since the engine won't turn over. This usually due to a BAD starter motor or a BAD starter motor solenoid.

Remember... this article only deals with a no start condition.

For Coil test; see page 2 No Start 1: Checking for Spark

Spark was NOT present in all of the cylinders A number of things can cause this no spark result... so this what I would suggest:

•Test the ignition coil. ◦Check for spark directly on the ignition coil tower.

◦The distributor cap and rotor can go BAD and not deliver the spark that the ignition coil is delivering to them... so testing for spark directly on the ignition coil is the best way to check this.

◦If you do get spark from the ignition coil's tower, then now you know that the distributor cap and rotor are fried and need to be replaced.

◦You can find the ignition coil test here: Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-test-the-ignition-coil-1

 

[Mudslinger91]

Is there a way I can hot wire the coil to atleast get her running for me to go pick the part up?