Central TX 91 Bronco

[Bass2Mouth]

Greetings from Central Texas! I've been lurking here for a while and decided I might as well hop on.

About 6 months ago I picked up a 1991 Bronco XL from my father-in-law that used to be a New Mexico Forest Service rig. He bought it back in the early 2000s, and used it on the deer lease and as an extra vehicle for some time.

It got passed around to different people a couple times, until late 2012 when the E4OD finally started having severe tantrums. It got parked at the family feed store at that time, and has sat as a parking lot paper weight until I convinced my father-in-law it was time to get it running again.

It still has a massive problem with the E4OD, it runs excellent in manual 1st gear and Reverse, however there is ZERO manual 2nd gear, and in Drive it slips pretty bad at start off and then just never really performs right, still never getting into or out of 2nd gear it feels like. I'm just running it around the pasture to the shop back and forth for now, so only having 1st gear isnt really an issue for now. I have replaced the MLPS but that didnt change any behavior.

It has a 5.0 with E4OD trans, 4.11 gears and LSD rear end. Hoping to use for a mild trail rig around the various parks here in TX, and a occasional grocery getter/sunday driver.

Pulled codes about a month ago when I finally got the 5.0 stable, spit out the following
126
172
211
543
556

I need to rerun the diagnostics as I have addressed some of those items, I need to clear the current codes first.

Things replaced since I got it:
New battery
New battery cables all around (2ga for battery, 4ga for solenoid out)
New fuel tank
New fuel pump
Repaired fuel sending unit
Replaced rear diff fluid and friction modifier
New tailgate window regulator
New Radio
New speakers
New Ignition Coil
New MAP Sensor
New Water pump
New Fan Clutch
New thermostat
New ECT sensor (to gauge)
New 2 core radiator
New plugs and plug wires
Replaced all plastic vacuum lines with new rubber vacuum lines
Patched all visible wiring that was frayed
6 inch SuperLift with extended radius arms
New drop pitman arm
New MLPS and plug
MileStar Patagonia 33s on original 15X8s

Things to address:
E4OD issues (Planning to buy a built E4OD from Monster Transmission, ~$2500 with 3 year warranty and a shop about 45 minutes away in case it ever detonates)
Service the t-case
3G alternator upgrade
Floor rust, the floor pans and cab corners in the front are gone, not sure how I'm going to handle this yet. May soundproof and rhinoline interior.
Timing adjustment to get a little more power (May need to get new distributor due to PIP sensor code being thrown)
Body panel fun stuff, possibly paint. (I think I may be able to pressure wash some of the old spray paint off, it flakes with a fingernail in a lot of areas)
ALIGNMENT (After the lift its quite visible that my camber is waaay positive)
Brake lines, (have extended stainless lines, just need to install)
Front hubs and rotors
Rear hubs and drums
Entire exhaust system (While running some seafoam the exhaust manifolds started smoking really bad, guess they got cracked from the heat, most likely will run shorty headers to a highflow cat and muffler)
Rock sliders/step rail
Front and rear bumper replacement

Would love any kind of feedback or suggestions, trying to focus on the alignment and transmission right now so I cant get this thing back on the streets and out from the pasture.

Thanks!

 

[Tiha]

Looks like a fun truck. Welcome!

transmission, yeah I am thinking that is a direct clutch failure. Mechanical, gonna need a new trans. When you pull it manually down into 1st gear it doesn't engage the direct clutch. At least I think it is the direct.
Anyway when you put in drive or OD it uses that clutch.
That is why manual 1 and 2 still exsist. To take the stress off the direct clutch when working the truck.

Monster Transmission has some really bad reviews. I haven't used them personally and the bad reviews I read were all about Diesel E4OD. So maybe it doesn't apply to you, but be sure to do some google searches before you order.

As far as alignment. There are adjustable caster shims, more of a collar. As much as you have to go, I think you need to find some drop brackets for the pivot arms.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Bass2Mouth,
Welcome!
Manual 2
Selection of this position at start-up provides only 2nd gear operation. Selection at higher vehicle speed results in temporary 3rd gear followed by an automatic downshift to 2nd gear, which provides engine braking.
Shift Concerns: No Manual 2nd Gear

Possible Component​	Reference/Action​
217 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE​
Powertrain Control System​	​
Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2, Transmission Range (TR) sensor	Includes the DiagnosticTrouble Codes.test. Perform Service Manual Pinpoint Tests A and D using Rotunda Transmission Tester 007-00085, Cable and Overlay 007-00107 and the Transmission Range (TR) Sensor Cable "B" (MLPS Manual Lever Position Sensor Cable) 007-00086 or equivalents as outlined in this section.. Clear codes, road test and rerun On-Board Diagnostics.
317 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE​
Shift Linkage (Internal/External) or Cable​	​
Damaged, misadjusted	Inspect for damage. Service as required. Verify linkage/cable adjustment as outlined. After servicing linkage/cable, verify that the Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor is properly adjusted; see test below.
Main Controls​	​
Bolts not tightened to specification	Retighten bolts to specification.
Gaskets damaged	Inspect for damage and replace.
2-3 shift valve, 3-4 shift valve, manual 1-2 transition valve, spring — stuck, damaged, missing, misassembled	Inspect for damage. Service as required.
BS6, BS1 — missing, leaks or seats damaged	Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Improper parts used in rebuild	Verify that proper parts were used.
Intermediate Clutch Assembly​	​
Assembly	Air check clutch assembly as outlined in this section.
Seals or piston damaged	Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Friction elements worn, missing, damaged, misassembled	Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Ball check stuck/missing	Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Feedbolt torque incorrect, leaks, missing	Inspect and retighten bolts as required.
Cylinder assembly outer diameter/case bore damaged, leaking	Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Intermediate One-Way Clutch Assembly​	​
Case/sprags damaged, improperly assembled on inner race	Inspect for damage. Service as required.

●
Here are the 1990 F Series/Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals (EVTM), Partial by member Kingfish999 in Google Drive (similar to your 91) @ 1990 Ford Truck service manuals - Google Drive
Slow scrolling for my slow Comcast Highest Cost Blast Internet..
Suggest you download the docs for faster scrolling and to use the page index.

1991 Bronco Dealer Brochure by Ford via via Dezo's Garage @

https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/1991-Ford-Bronco.pdf

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom
Be Well!
Al

 

[johnnyreb]

Greetings from Central Texas! I've been lurking here for a while and decided I might as well hop on.

About 6 months ago I picked up a 1991 Bronco XL from my father-in-law that used to be a New Mexico Forest Service rig. He bought it back in the early 2000s, and used it on the deer lease and as an extra vehicle for some time.

It got passed around to different people a couple times, until late 2012 when the E4OD finally started having severe tantrums. It got parked at the family feed store at that time, and has sat as a parking lot paper weight until I convinced my father-in-law it was time to get it running again.

It still has a massive problem with the E4OD, it runs excellent in manual 1st gear and Reverse, however there is ZERO manual 2nd gear, and in Drive it slips pretty bad at start off and then just never really performs right, still never getting into or out of 2nd gear it feels like. I'm just running it around the pasture to the shop back and forth for now, so only having 1st gear isnt really an issue for now. I have replaced the MLPS but that didnt change any behavior.

It has a 5.0 with E4OD trans, 4.11 gears and LSD rear end. Hoping to use for a mild trail rig around the various parks here in TX, and a occasional grocery getter/sunday driver.

Pulled codes about a month ago when I finally got the 5.0 stable, spit out the following
126
172
211
543
556

I need to rerun the diagnostics as I have addressed some of those items, I need to clear the current codes first.

Things replaced since I got it:
New battery
New battery cables all around (2ga for battery, 4ga for solenoid out)
New fuel tank
New fuel pump
Repaired fuel sending unit
Replaced rear diff fluid and friction modifier
New tailgate window regulator
New Radio
New speakers
New Ignition Coil
New MAP Sensor
New Water pump
New Fan Clutch
New thermostat
New ECT sensor (to gauge)
New 2 core radiator
New plugs and plug wires
Replaced all plastic vacuum lines with new rubber vacuum lines
Patched all visible wiring that was frayed
6 inch SuperLift with extended radius arms
New drop pitman arm
New MLPS and plug
MileStar Patagonia 33s on original 15X8s

Things to address:
E4OD issues (Planning to buy a built E4OD from Monster Transmission, ~$2500 with 3 year warranty and a shop about 45 minutes away in case it ever detonates)
Service the t-case
3G alternator upgrade
Floor rust, the floor pans and cab corners in the front are gone, not sure how I'm going to handle this yet. May soundproof and rhinoline interior.
Timing adjustment to get a little more power (May need to get new distributor due to PIP sensor code being thrown)
Body panel fun stuff, possibly paint. (I think I may be able to pressure wash some of the old spray paint off, it flakes with a fingernail in a lot of areas)
ALIGNMENT (After the lift its quite visible that my camber is waaay positive)
Brake lines, (have extended stainless lines, just need to install)
Front hubs and rotors
Rear hubs and drums
Entire exhaust system (While running some seafoam the exhaust manifolds started smoking really bad, guess they got cracked from the heat, most likely will run shorty headers to a highflow cat and muffler)
Rock sliders/step rail
Front and rear bumper replacement

Would love any kind of feedback or suggestions, trying to focus on the alignment and transmission right now so I cant get this thing back on the streets and out from the pasture.

Thanks!


View attachment 29358View attachment 29357View attachment 29356View attachment 29355

You might want to check the vent area their and clean out all the mud and leaves. That plugged up the bottom drain holes---where water travels down the side--and especially during hard rains---comes into the floor. Their is a bulg in behind the fenders. What I done was cut bigger holes and now all the junk washs out. In behind the emergency brake---were the vent is--you can see water path.

 

[Motech]

That is a really fun looking project. I'm envious!