22 august 2009 The Nigthmare begins.

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zintrex

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IM BACK!!!

no im not dead.

but due to some rlf shit ive been to buizy to do anything.

Im gonna go over the thread and renew the old img links, since my server died.

BUT the last few months ive gotten some work done on the bronc.

ive cut out the old rusty floorpan and welded inn a new one,

2lnhm5j.jpg

ive had the car trough a "eu control" simular to britans MOT test.

its a test EVERY car in norway has to go trogh every 2 years to make shure their safe and legal.

it dint go too well..

here are the "scale"

lvl 1 fault = its a error but its not something to serius and you will pass the test

lvl 2 fault = its a safety error, and you will fail the test

lvl 3 fault = now its a WERY serius securety hazard and sometimes you arnt allowed to use the wehicle with a lvl 3 fault.

so how did my bronc do?

12 lvl 2 faults!!! and 1 lvl 1 fault...

My lvl 2 faults:

- brake pedal to much travel wo any brake response

- dangerus cracks in brake hose left front

- break power under referance values for the car

- different brake power between 2 weels on 1 axle (rear) above 30% difference

- park brake not strong enogh.

- badly worn left outer tie rod

- badly worn rigth tie rod

- door mirrors missing, both sides

- direction ligth not working left side front

- signal switch not staying on to left.

- defect left side axle joint front axle.

- to much play both front wheel bearings.

so it looks like i have some work left before the car is road legal..

also i have a nuubish question..

the previus owner insists i have a tilt steering collum, but i cant seem to find the lever,button or whatnot to change the tilt...

so can ya by looking at this pic tell me if i have one or not?

11kv4fp.jpg

 
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Krafty

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yes that is a tilt steering wheel, I don't know where the release will be but every fixed steering coloum I have from ford since 1969 has been 100% straight.

 
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zintrex

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push the blinker lever forward and you should be able to tilt it, you may need to use a reasonable amount of presure being it has say for so long
Thanks, that did the trick!

also i feel like a TOTAL idiot on so many levels.

i was at the car wrecking yard today,

so id thougth id ask if they had a trailer hitch taht fits my bronc, and with bronco's beeing so rare as they are here in norway,

i asked if they had hitches for all the other models that whoud fit my lovely bronc, BUT not for the bronc itself.

just rigth now i logged on the national "car wrecker parts database" to see if anyone have a viper motor for me, since my own is busted.

Guess what i see, the same yard i was on today has a class IV hitch for a 95 bronc AND a viper motor....

so tomorrow mornin its jump into the car and go over to them and pick up the parts, and my baby is closer to getting back to the road.

Also over some time the gas tank in the car is leaking but not much.

but if theres one thing my experience have togth me is that minute cracks like that ALWAYS grows big and, ALWAYS does it at the worst thinkable time.

so i did the smart thing and ordered a new plasitc tank from broncograveyard. il try to make a "gas tank replacement writeup" when it comes, and a small review of the tank.

il be back later with more updates from my little bronco's life

small edit:

the wiper motor they had at my local wrecking yard was busted and in the same way as my own, so il order a new one

 
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small update.

My wallet is hurting badly.

i had a small shopping bonanza on the bronco graveyard today. My shopping list:

80-86 Manual Mirror Stainless Steel, L

80-86 Manual Mirror Stainless Steel, R

80-86 Front Brake Pads Raybestos

Rear Brake Shoes, 11" x 2 ¼"

1980-1/88 F150 4wd Rear Axle Brake Hose Stock

1980-89 RH front axle hose

1980-89 LH outer axle hose

D44 TIMKEN Wheel Bearings,Races & Seals,BOTH SIDES

Signal Switch, OEM (With Tilt) 1980-83

D44 Dana Spicer Axle Joint

Rebuilt Electric Wiper Motor, 80-86

Bronoc/F150 Right Outer Tie Rod, 1980-96

Bronco/F150 Left Inner Rod, 1980-96

Bronco/F150 Left Outer Tie Rod, 1980-96 1

Spindle Nut Socket, Dana 44

a total of 468 usd for it all + shipping.

i also bought a used radiator from a 89 bronc,from my local wrecking yard. cause mine leaks a little when the engine is hot. that cost me aprox 80 usd.

seems like my bronc is getting closer and closer to getting road legal agean.

I will be back wwith more updates when my parts arrive and i get them on the car.

 
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The gas tank has arrived!

So here's my thougths about it:

- Its ligth, when i picked it up at the post office i actualy opned it and looked inside cause i was worried it was nuthing inside!

- Its Very well built, the top and bottom of the steel tank, flexs if i put weigth on it, the plastic tank does not. the joint in the middle of the tank looks like its well done and the sending unit hole and the breather walve hole are all the correct size, so the install went smooth.

- The only downside i can find is that the walls in the tank is so thick, that the hole inside diameeter for the filler hole is a bit smaller than the steel tank, so Maybe there may take me a little bit longer to fill the tank since the hole is smaller.

- The "fins" on the side of the steel tank, is not there so as a added pro the axsess to bolts and stuff, in the frame in the gas tank area is a lot better, it actualy helped me when i was bolting back on the trailer hitch.

But enogh text i guess you all want to see pictures, so here they are:

The old and the new tank ready for the parts to be swapped:

6g8xmx.jpg

Side wiev of the tank

2gwxt6o.jpg

Sending unit hole, interesting way of sealing it.

2colx5l.jpg

Fuel filler side

148ow0l.jpg

I found a interesting thing when i opned the old tank,

seems like a previus ovner has swapped from a smaller tank to a 33gallon tank, but was too cheap to buy a new sending unit.

35nd4xc.jpg

Tank fitted in the car.

no visual difference between the stock and the plastic tank.

9hmefo.jpg

On the tank there is a sticker that says that Exhast pipes has to be a minimum of 3" away from the tank.

soo since my exhaust is a little close to the tank, i will make a heat shield just to be shure.

Lastly a pic of my bronc trying to stare down my friends suburban, looks like it dont like the idea of a newer and different brand truck in the driveway.

35daxj6.jpg

 
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zintrex

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Is that sthe same size tank(gallons)? Do you think the weight difference of the tank improves gas milage?
Yes it is the same size tank,

about gas mileage, i dont think its light enough to make a real difference, the weigth difference isnt that great.

i who'd say that even something simple as removing a spare tire or only filling the tank halfway is gonna have a better/same effect.

also, i haven't gotten to use the car much yet since its not road legal yet,

so i haven't got a proper idea of how much gas it drinks yet.

but i know that it drinks enogh to make it profitable to do a LPG conversion so i can drive it A LOT cheaper.

considering that regular gas here is 7,42 usd a gallon (12.50 Norwegian kroner pr LITER today). YES its that pricy over here,

and a gallon of LPG gas is about 2,7 usd here so theres a HUUGE difference.

I will be posting a real post about the lpg convertion as soon as i get the money to do it. (its probably gonna be mid summer or something)

 
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Swapped the radiator today.

The Old radiator, Notice how bad the old one was.

9ifk2v.jpg

The radiator i bougth from the wrecking yard,

sitting there ready to serve a long life in my bronc. Its from a 1989 5L bronco.

nxumu.jpg

The mounting hardware for the oil cooler lines:

A HUUUGE tip to all ppl working on the oil cooler, be realy carefull when you remove theese

becouse if you use brute force you can break the oil cooler and not even know you have broken it,

resulting in oil in your cooling system or cooling liquid in your gearbox.

nprupv.jpg

The new radiator mounted in the car,

Notice taht the radiator dont fit perfect in my car due to my car beeing a 1980 model.

radiator is mounted with self tapping screws, BUT i will be making new brackets for it.

e7o6dj.jpg

Lastly a question for ya all.

when i look for parts for my aircondition system i have 2 options.

is it possible from the pic¨s in my tread to determine if i have a stock system or a dealer installed one.

becouse i dont know how to see the difference.

Edit:

i forgot to mention that yesterday, i got a phonecall from a dude taht has been driving

past my mothers house, where the car is sitting while i work on it.

and was wanting to buy my bronk from me.

was maybe the easiest thing ive ever decided, took me about 0,2seconds to make the decition.

NO not for sale, the bronc is gonna live a long and nice life with me.

 
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Whoooops i think i may have fuckked up badly.

was doing the last electrical work on my lpg convertion today,

and it required me to pull the intake/plenum off to get axsess to the fuel injectors.

so while working i was realy carefull not droping anything into the intake and so on.

when i finished i bolted everything back up. and fired mah baby back up, she fires on first try and runns great.

BOOM 40 second later i get a wallet busting ticking / ratteling sound from the drivers side,shut her down and called it the day.

my guess: ive probably dropped something and messed up the head on that side.... lol.

so first thing tomorrow im gonna go over to where i work on it and start diagnosis.

i will remove all the spark plugs and turn the engine around to feel and listen for any mecahnical shit.

but i ahve a fear il end up tearing the heads off..

almost all the times ive heard a noice like that it has resulted in a fukked up head.

but im used to euro engines, so its gonna be fun to see how this american steel has responded.

so lastly,

since im most likely looking at some head dmg, i most likely have to end up gettin new ones,

so how is theese heads:?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6049-X306/

il be back tomorrow with pics of whatever happened

 
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well now i have stripped down the engine, and its engine rebuild time.

now im gonna go outside and inspect for cylinder wall dmg to determine if its rebuild time or just tiome to get a new engine.

CIMG2711.JPG

 
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Engin update:

so i ripped the engine out today, and took some pictures during the job.

Engine on its way out.

acwgtf.jpg

The bronc putside missing its engine, sitting a bit high in front.

qzlo4j.jpg

Engine up on the stand rdy to work on.

a5i238.jpg

The piston that got damaged

i also removed an another piston and cleaned it to see if there was any identifying marks on it.

all i found was .030 stamped into the top, so i know the block has a .030 overbore, but since i cant identify a

maker of the piston im forced to get 8 new ones.

33yrvo7.jpg

removing the scratches in the cyl wall after the piston shattering.

i alwasy try honing before sending the block away, and yet agean the honing tool have saved me money!

2w3dys4.jpg

Pile of parts gathering up.

33ff5o5.jpg

So tomorrows plan is to finish stripping the block and look at the bearings to make shure thay are stock sice

so i can order a engine rebuild kit from summit racing.

 
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small update.

I finaly got all the parts i need yesterday, and started workin today.

removed all the old bearings, removed the old freeze plugs and started assembling,

when it was time for pistons i picked up one of the olds ones and imideately started cursing.

Guess what, the frikken pistons use semi floating pins, IE i need a press and heat to remove and assemble,

and of course I dont have that,

so Pictures of the progress so far:

The block nice and repainted, and with the crank in it.

ajo02u.jpg

Pic of one of the new pistons:

22dqgo.jpg

 
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So, when things go shit it usually dont stop.

well. today i was supposed to pick up my pistons and connecting rods from the shop, (since i dont have the equipment to do it myself.)

well when i came to the shop they first say they havent been able to do it! due to not having the tools to do it.. took them frikken 2 days to realize taht!!

and as a added bonus they give me some ******** about only receiving 7 piston/rod's to disassemble, even togh i counted them at the reception of the shop.

so i answer well have ya misplaced one or something? and they just answer: NO

So ive gone from a "simple" piston swap, to missing a rod.

and i have always been told that i shoud NEVER swap rods wo proper balancing. worst case scenario never use rods w different casting numbers.

soooo due to the shop fukking up i now have to get me a new matched set of rods, OR try to source a rod with the same casting number as mine.

YAY for incompetent shops!!!

and yeah they have lost a customer..

so most likely i will be waiting till the 31st, YAY for payday!!

and then order me a set of new FULL floating rods, so i dont have to mess about with shops to loose my parts.

until then my bronc is gonna be sitting without an engine.

GOOOD i miss driving it.

 
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5 September, ITS ALIIIVEEE

After several days of work and a load of money spent, the engine is now back in the car and running sooooo sweeeet

But sadly between taking the picture of the pistons assembled on rods, and the block getting assembled my "oily" camera died..

so i dont have any real photos from the assembly and reinstall prosess.

i bougth myself a shiny new 5tonn shop press, i just got fed up having to beat on shit to install and shit...

I also ended up buying 1 reconditioned rod and then Balanced the rods.

I dint take any pictures of this, but i will give ya a link to an another site describing how to do it.

http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/RodBalance.html

But picture time:

Pressing out the pin of the old pistons:

2r5su2t.jpg

Heating up the small end of the rods before assembly.

Note to anyone taht are gonna do it them selfs, Be patient and let the rod heat up real good,

if not the pin rod is gonna "bite" the pin to early, and you have to press it out or further inn.

35bieev.jpg

Pistons and rod's all assembled:

142yp9s.jpg

This is when my camera died.

but i took some pictures with my dslr when i had cleaned my hands and shit.

The finished result AND showing the plumbing for the LPG Kit that are installed in the car.

"Frontend" or engine components of the lpg kit.

Notice the Lpg vaporizer and hoses coming from it.

2 hoses coming from the vaporizer to a y piece to the regulator then y piece then to the intake, carrying vaporised lpg fuel,

then the 2 coolant hoses. WO coolant and heat the vaporizer whoud freeze up from the proses of taking liquid lpg and vaporizing it.

1ik3zp.jpg

The selector switch in the dash:

afbwns.jpg

Thats it for today,

 
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zintrex

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And shit strikes agean..

rigth before the engine breakdown i c hanged the starter in my bronco..

was going to the store today, and tried to start the engine when i heard a realy horrible sound...

well heres why:

4hfeqs.jpg

Why must my bronco keep breaking down,

this is beginning to become expensive. lol.

 
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Krafty

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it seems you and I have the same gift, we can find any weakness in a vehicle or tool, it just means when the fixing is finally over our stuff is bullet proof.

 
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small update 9-30-2010

WHHEEEEE finally got the new starter,

took a while because i had to send inn the broken one to the seller that had to verify it not a user caused issue.

i didnt take any photo's, nothing interesting with swapping a starter anyways.

and next friday im going to oslo to get the lpg kit inspected and approved, once its all legal and working i will post a more detailed

post about the convertion and how the car is to drive on lpg.

 

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Push forward or backward on the turn signal handle!
Push it towards the dash. I would grab down more to the middle of the shaft to push it though. I over explained myself with my old 80 model turn signal and snapped it of at the switch! Sometimes it helps to take your right hand and gently wiggle the steerin' wheel up and down a little while you push the rod back. "Remember,if you break it, you pushed too hard"! I'm soooo glad my '78 Bronco doesn't have tilt steerin' wheel!

 
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