Its just not my day...unfortunately the top bolt which had cracked broke off shorter(pretty rusted). I used an extractor bit, which I had never used before. Well after about two hours of trying I finally got it to bite. And as I was turning it counter clockwise I felt a snap. The top bracket of the cover cracked! Ouch. Looks like I will be replacing the timing chain cover. That is all connected correct? I guess a lesson was learned today. I guess this is all part of the fun though, one day she will ride again!
Oil Leak
- Thread starter pj31704
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I am about to buy new timing cover as well as a new water pump. I noticed it recommended buying a new fan clutch when replacing the water pump. When I looked this part up however I do not see it in any of the parts I have taken apart. Is it in a different location? Do all of these trucks have a fan clutch? My rig doesn't have A/C by the way, don't know if that matters.
To my Knowledge.., EB's never had a fan clutch.
You likely had a "spacer" between the fan & pulley.
In later years, the clutch was placed there, with no spacer.
You likely had a "spacer" between the fan & pulley.
In later years, the clutch was placed there, with no spacer.
I removed the oil pan yesterday, getting ready for all my parts to come in and start rebuilding. The gasket on the oil pan unfortunately stayed on the bottom of the engine. It is very aged and basically cracks off small pieces at a time. Any tricks to removing this without getting debris in the engine or scratching up the surface of the body?
There is a "spray on gasket remover" (Permatex). I have some but never used it.
I suppose it softens the gasket up for easier removal.
There's no real tricks.., just a lot of "elbo grease" ..!!
There-in lies the reason I only glue the gaskets to the pan..
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
A flat putty knife works good for scraping.., as does the razorblade in a handle.
A Dremmel tool with a mini DREMMEL wire wheel works good for final & tough spots.
The cheap wire wheels start coming appart real soon.. <_<
I suppose it softens the gasket up for easier removal.
There's no real tricks.., just a lot of "elbo grease" ..!!
There-in lies the reason I only glue the gaskets to the pan..
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />A flat putty knife works good for scraping.., as does the razorblade in a handle.
A Dremmel tool with a mini DREMMEL wire wheel works good for final & tough spots.
The cheap wire wheels start coming appart real soon.. <_<
Last edited by a moderator:
That's something I've not heard of..?
To my knowledge, there's 4 bolts holding the pully onto the balancer. it should just come right off...??
The balancer has a large center nut. It's pretty tight. You may have to put truck in gear & put emergency brake
on tight. Same for re-installing.
What exactly is "spinning"...???
To my knowledge, there's 4 bolts holding the pully onto the balancer. it should just come right off...??
The balancer has a large center nut. It's pretty tight. You may have to put truck in gear & put emergency brake
on tight. Same for re-installing.
What exactly is "spinning"...???
Yep.., those three. I was thinking four.
Still unclear what is spinning..? Do you mean when you turn the wrench to remove those bolts, the
whole works turns..?
If so.., you need to have someone hold the pulley or do the in gear brake on thing.
(this may not work with auto trannie)
A block of wood between the eng. block & one of the rods (pan is off ?) will stop the eng. from turning.
Still unclear what is spinning..? Do you mean when you turn the wrench to remove those bolts, the
whole works turns..?
If so.., you need to have someone hold the pulley or do the in gear brake on thing.
(this may not work with auto trannie)
A block of wood between the eng. block & one of the rods (pan is off ?) will stop the eng. from turning.
It has a lot of torque on it. Blocking the crank from turning will help. Also, it may take a breaker bar
to get it loose. (and.., likely need the puller to pull the balancer off.)
I think it's 70-90 ft. pounds torque on re-assemble but check your book.
The pan & T-chain cover have specific torque settings as well..., i.e. don't over tighten.
to get it loose. (and.., likely need the puller to pull the balancer off.)
I think it's 70-90 ft. pounds torque on re-assemble but check your book.
The pan & T-chain cover have specific torque settings as well..., i.e. don't over tighten.
Last edited by a moderator:
Got the harmonic balancer removed, timing cover off. I inspected the chain, it does have some slack so I'm thinking now is a good time to replace. Is there much go it? I've ordered new gears and chain. I know they must line up with the dots at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Doesn't seem to difficult... I hope. How can I tell if the harmonic balancer should be replaced?
You're doing great..., as I said, the gears & chain go on as a unit. Yep., it's pretty straight forward.
How can I tell if the harmonic balancer should be replaced?
The balancer is two piece.., the outer ring is vulcanized to the center piece with a rubber membrane.
Inspect the rubber for rot out, or any kind of shifting of the two parts, large chunks missing, etc.
In rare cases, the two pieces shift, causing eng. vibration.
BTW.., the auto parts stores can give you the torque settings on the items you've removed.
How can I tell if the harmonic balancer should be replaced?
The balancer is two piece.., the outer ring is vulcanized to the center piece with a rubber membrane.
Inspect the rubber for rot out, or any kind of shifting of the two parts, large chunks missing, etc.
In rare cases, the two pieces shift, causing eng. vibration.
BTW.., the auto parts stores can give you the torque settings on the items you've removed.
I am looking for the replacement bolts for the two which broke off. They held the water pump to the timing cover. Nowhere seems to have these, even the dealership said to keep looking. Has anyone had this happen? Were you able to find replacements?
Most quality hardware stores will have them.
BTW.., don't use "anti-sieze" on the threads as it causes incorrect torque readings.
BTW.., don't use "anti-sieze" on the threads as it causes incorrect torque readings.
So I used a handle of a hammer to stop the crank from rotating while removing the harmonic balancer, which worked great. However how do I safely rotate the crank the opposite direction now in order to remove the hammer? I don't want to do anything that might mess up the crank or threads. I returned the puller but I do have the installer kit with me.
It's not that hard to turn.., all your fighting is the eng. compression.
You only need to move it back to where it was so the timing dots will line up when removing & installing the timing
chain & gears.
Another piece of wood to push or wedge in to pull on. Worst case, if you pull the spark plugs, you could turn it by hand.
Are we having fun yet..? ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
You only need to move it back to where it was so the timing dots will line up when removing & installing the timing
chain & gears.
Another piece of wood to push or wedge in to pull on. Worst case, if you pull the spark plugs, you could turn it by hand.
Are we having fun yet..? ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
Well I took the rig out for a long test drive to test all the new parts. Everything seems to be fine except one thing. There is a good amount of oil sleeping out of the front of the oil pan. Right where the pan gasket meets the bottom of the timing cover. My guess is the gasket isn't sitting right against the timing cover. (As I had issues with getting gasket in place here before) The rear seal is great however with engine running I can see oil dripping from the front of the pan, and after the drive there was a good amount which had leaked out. I guess I'll need to remove oil pan and fix the gasket. Any way to adjust this part without full removal of pan? And draining everything again?
Pan gaskets were designed to be placed while the eng. is on a stand or factory assy. line.
Doing it bottom up while laying in a pool of oil makes it a bit difficult. Gravity is your enemy..!
You're not alone having to do it more than once.
Doing it bottom up while laying in a pool of oil makes it a bit difficult. Gravity is your enemy..!
You're not alone having to do it more than once.
