22 august 2009 The Nigthmare begins.

Hi guys.

this will be my project tread/worklogg for my 1980 ford bronco.

i will in advance appologice for spelling mistakes. im no native english speaker.

actualy i live in Norway B)

Car info:

- Car name: The Nigthmare

- 1980 bronco fullsice

- Engine 302 EFI

- Transmission: C6 with a axle drive ratio of 3,50:1

- rear axle: ford 9" with a minispool installed.

- Suspention: Stock

- 2,5" exhaust wit a single simons blowtrogh Muffler

- Interior : gray leather

Plans for the car:

No big plans for now, but i know i wont do a lift and that il be doing some offroading in it.

Day one : 22 august 2009

Me and a good friend of mine grabbed his chevy and went to pick up my new toy.

and man do i look forward to getting this bad boy on the road agean...



First day of work on the car: 23 August 2009

So today i set out w a few goals.

1 figure out what engine it has

2 figure out what transmission it has

3 figure out whats wrong w the rear axle.

4 get a general idea on how bad the rust problem is.

so what did i figure out?

Engine:

well i dint even bother too look at it....

Transmission:

what i know now is that the options on the gear shift lever is: P - R-N-D-2-1 so no 3rd gear to choose.

il look more into the transmision later.

Rear axle.

well Both of the drive shafts are fine so i pulled out the third member.

and this is what i found when i opned it:



Now this cannot be good. :blink:

so i looked more into the gears and what i found was that it has completely shattered atlest one of the internal gears in the differential.

and this is the info i now have on my rear diff: its a open diff and it has 28 splines on the axle shafts.

Il come back w a more detailed description and more pics of the damage once i have opned the diff and have rebuilt it. (maybe il make a howto)

The rust problem

Well here i have some work to do i see. BUT its not nearly as baad as i feared it whoud be.

Drivers side floor: What floor? i have some work to do here i think.......



Driver side door frame and floor: More holes and even more work to do



Passenger side floor: Now this is not bad at all. no holes and only ligth rust. this will be fixed fast



there is also some baad rust in both of the doors and tailgate. but i think il just buy new doors and tailgate.

and last i took some pictures of the car.

Not too bad inside



I need to get me a new Grill



Passenger side, (NL sign comes from the previus owner)



Up on stands and waiting for some new parts for the differential

----- Rear Axle -----

24 august 09

Today i stripped down the differential and got a real good loock at the damage.



As you can see there is missing some teeth and the diff gears is faar beyond rescue.



"Bottom part" of the differential housing. Notice the damage too the side walls.

Anyone Know if its possible to rescue the differential housing or if i shoud get me a new one????



Small update. i swapped the broken carrier for a stock carrier w a spool for now, il decide if i want a air locker or a posi unit later

Welcome to the zone!

This has the makings to be one great thread that you've started. Great pictures and details.

Good luck with your project and look forward to your future posts!

Mike

13 september 09

today i got to fire it up for the first time. it has been sitting for about 2 years

BUT remember that when i shot the video it had run for bout 20min on idle speeds.

I also fixed my gas tank last week, il upload some images later when i have the time

to sit down and do the writeup.

17 october 09

just a small update on the car.

i got the rear axle rebuilt now, i got me a good deal on a standard carrier, with a minispool already installed.

im gonna use that carrier untill i can either afford a air locker OR a positrack carrier.

I forgot to bring my camera so no pictures of the prosess, but if you need any info on a ford 9" rear axle rebuild look at this thread:

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18814

I moved the car over to my mothers house to do some major electrical work.

at the moment the electrical system on the car is a huge mess! (il post pictures tomorrow)

also i had some issues w getting the car to idle properly, but i guess since its been sitting for 2 years without

an battery, i guess that the efi system has to "run itself inn" agean.

so i just let it idle helping it along w the throttle, and after a while it ran better and better.

but ofcorce i decided to take a look at the distributer cap, and it looked like awfull..

so i cleaned it. and now i get no spark. DOOH

so a new cap and rotor is ordered and in the mail.

But over to some questions:

i need to figure out exactly what engine is in the car.

This is what i know:

- the car was delivered with a 315 engine w a carb system.

- Now the car has a EFI system. on the engine control unit, it says ford 315 efi 89 ecoline van. (in yellow marking most likely written by a used parts seller)

- on the intake plenum it says 5l ( this indicates a 302 if im not wrong)

- ive been told that the 89 model has a serpentine belt system. my car uses regular fan belts. (so somethings not rigth here)

So is there an easy way of finaly figuring out if my engine is a 302 and the label by the junkyard is wrong,

or if there has been some real mixing on this engine,

(maybe they have used the old 315 block and just rebuilt it to efi)

Il be back with pictures of the wiring and engine tomorrow.

it is either a 302 cause that engine actually exists or someone was dyslexic and meant to say or write 351. which also exists.

the 89 ignition system can be a pain in the but. if the rotor and cap doesn't fix it then there should be a big plug with a bunch of wires that goes straight into the front of the distributor called the Ignition controller. if there isn't one there then there will be one mounted on the fender. check the connection and make sure its plugged in all the way.

if you still have no spark get a HAYNES manual for the 1980 thru 1996 where they will have all the diagnostic procedures for the 89 electrical system.

good luck

I miss my 1981 bronco, Oh fond memories.

Krafty said:

it is either a 302 cause that engine actually exists or someone was dyslexic and meant to say or write 351. which also exists.

Click to expand...

that was me being dyslexic agean.. i meant 351

But its picture time!

The wireing is a mess.



My daily driver and the bronco side by side



I was stuck so i called inn a bronco mechanic. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

shes my sisters horse, a nice and calm old mare.



More updates will come as i work on the car.

lol wow that is a mess. it looks like just an efi conversion that was horrifically done. how many miles are on the truck? there is a chance that its the original motor with just all the computer parts put on for the conversion. the best thing to do would be to check the computer for codes. being as its not an efi bronco it won't be wired for the check engine light. so if it has codes you won't know it.

22 october 09

a coupple of days ago i cleaned the distributor cap and after that i have gotten No spark. so i ordered a new one

well today my new dirstibuter cap and rotor arrived. so i raced over to the bronco and installed the new shiny parts.

tryed to start the car and guess what. NO spark...

3hrs of going over the wiering later and i was no way closer to figuring out what was wrong.

so i decided to dubblechek what way the rotor spins, just to make shure i havent mixed up the fiering order or anything.

as i was leaning into the engine compartment i accidentally rested my had on the end of the coil lead,

(the one from coil to distributor (it was un hooked))

and had a friend of mine crank the engine. and to my huge suprice i got shoked from the coil wire,

the only problem is that the spark coming from it was so weak that i actually coud hold it in my hand and still be fine.....

I Guess i need a new coil.

it looks like the car lives up to its name: The Nightmare!

But on the good side. i do think the engine is a 302. cause in my Haines manual i just got

the firing order on the 302 and 351w is different and my car had the firing order of the 302.

No new pictures today, since i guess all of you have seen a new dissie cap before.. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

follow the guide in the haynes manual to test the coil you have now, is could be an electrical problem before the coil causing the low voltage. also follow the test for the Ignition control module/ harness on the distributor.

I had the same problem, I changed the ICM and then it worked, then it didn't after a while so i wasted my money with a new coil and wires, and double and triple checked every test and got no right answers.

turned out for me my computer was starting to fry. plugged in a different computer and it has been running ever since.

nice thread i hope to do the same with my 89 in the spring

zintrex said:

22 october 09a coupple of days ago i cleaned the distributor cap and after that i have gotten No spark. so i ordered a new one

well today my new dirstibuter cap and rotor arrived. so i raced over to the bronco and installed the new shiny parts.

tryed to start the car and guess what. NO spark...

3hrs of going over the wiering later and i was no way closer to figuring out what was wrong.

so i decided to dubblechek what way the rotor spins, just to make shure i havent mixed up the fiering order or anything.

as i was leaning into the engine compartment i accidentally rested my had on the end of the coil lead,

(the one from coil to distributor (it was un hooked))

and had a friend of mine crank the engine. and to my huge suprice i got shoked from the coil wire,

the only problem is that the spark coming from it was so weak that i actually coud hold it in my hand and still be fine.....

I Guess i need a new coil.

it looks like the car lives up to its name: The Nightmare!

But on the good side. i do think the engine is a 302. cause in my Haines manual i just got

the firing order on the 302 and 351w is different and my car had the firing order of the 302.

No new pictures today, since i guess all of you have seen a new dissie cap before.. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Click to expand...

Just to confirm it for you, if it has a 5.0L intake it can only be a 302. The 302 intake will not fit on a 351 because the distance between the mounting surfaces is wider for a 351.

Nice posts.

Good luck,

>-

zintrex said:

Hi guys.
this will be my project tread/worklogg for my 1980 ford bronco.

i will in advance appologice for spelling mistakes. im no native english speaker.

actualy i live in Norway B)

Car name: The Nigthmare

- 1980 bronco fullsice

The rust problem

Well here i have some work to do i see. BUT its not nearly as baad as i feared it whoud be.

Drivers side floor: What floor? i have some work to do here i think.......



Driver side door frame and floor: More holes and even more work to do



Passenger side floor: Now this is not bad at all. no holes and only ligth rust. this will be fixed fast



there is also some baad rust in both of the doors and tailgate. but i think il just buy new doors and tailgate.

Also whoud a admin please add Modem warning to the tread description, just to warn the modem users.

Click to expand...

You can get floor panels from The Bronco Graveyard http://www.broncograveyard.com or LMC Truck http://www.lmctruck.com

24 October 09

gotten some nice work done on the bronco today!

i installed the new coil. sparkplugs and the rotor/cap and the car runs pretty fine now.

But i still have some Idle issues :-&

when i let go of the trottle it almost stalls then rews up and just continiuse doing that loop.

and also i think its running pretty rich.

i read about a way of "testing" the MAP sensor By simply unhooking it.

so i stopped the car unhooked it and started it back up. It still loops BUT its way better and more stable.

So before i go and get me a new map sensor

im gonna go over my entire vacuum system, to make shure i dont have a leak anywhere.

zintrex said:

24 October 09
gotten some nice work done on the bronco today!

i installed the new coil. sparkplugs and the rotor/cap and the car runs pretty fine now.

But i still have some Idle issues :-&

when i let go of the trottle it almost stalls then rews up and just continiuse doing that loop.

and also i think its running pretty rich.

i read about a way of "testing" the MAP sensor By simply unhooking it.

so i stopped the car unhooked it and started it back up. It still loops BUT its way better and more stable.

So before i go and get me a new map sensor

im gonna go over my entire vacuum system, to make shure i dont have a leak anywhere.

Click to expand...

Z ;

MAP Sensor Operational Description, pic & Parameters; MAP sensors are only used in Speed Density systems

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=27

MAP Sensor Testing w/DVOM & Overview :...The most accurate way to test this sensor is to measure output using a DVOM (digital volt-ohm meter). In this case the meter must have a frequency measuring ability..."

Source: by kemparts.com via web.archive.org @ http://web.archive.org/web/20070309172250/...chTalk/tt11.asp

MAP Sensor Testing, Symptoms & Overview; "...a multimeter that can read frequency is normally required to check the sensor

25 October 2009

I got a lot of work done on the car today and had my first real drive in it.

the MAP sensor.

i dont have a multimeter w the possibility to measure the needed specs.

so i focused on the vacuum system.

I found no leaks and i still have the idle issue with the MAP sensor connected. also when im driving it with the MAP sensor plugged in

it feels underpowered and hesitating. With the MAP sensor unplugged it feels way better and idles just fine.

Im actually quite impressed with the performance of the car.

So for now im gonna assume that the MAP sensor is the cause of the issues, and order me a new one when i get the moneys for it.

Exhaust system:

I have replaced the old round blowtrogh muffler with a large oval simons blowtrogh i got on the salvage yard for a coupple of bucks.

What i started with:



after some welding and a shedload of test fitting i ended up with this:



Notice the sice difference of the old part and the new one i made.

I decided to NOT use the smaller muffler since i think it works a little to good.. I like my v8s LOUD

But stupid me forgot to take a picture of the system assembled in the car..

but its now a full 2,5" system from the Y pipe and it sounds GREAT

I think the 89 model engine is supposed to have a catalytic converter. But my car dont have one installed.

Last a pic of me playing around on my moms driveway:

zintrex said:

But stupid me forgot to take a picture of the system assembled in the car..

Click to expand...

The underside, showing the new muffler.



i dint have any exhaust mountings that fitted to the bracket that was there.

so i made my own using a generic exhaust mounting i had and some crappy welding.

(this was done at my moms house using my stepdads crappy welder.

18 november 09

so ive had a shedload of problems w the car lately.

it just dint want to run good.

i have tested ALL switches, injectors, sensors ++++ and still nothing giving me a clue to whats wrong.

ive drawn codes from the car.

and i got a ton of codes. but most where trans codes for a ao4 box ,

(i have a c6 and my car is a efi swapped one) so i expected to get some codes.

i finaly worked it down to be something w the ignition on it.

and in the progress ive swapped plug wires, cap/rotor, coil. and done a full diagnostic of the ignition system.

still the car runns like crap.

Then i remember that the first thing i did when i got the car was to swap the ignition plugs.

so i call up my mechanic to weryfi that he had sold me the correct spark plugs.

and he confirmed that i had the correct plugs,

so an another round of diagnostics starts,

still everything points towards either the wrong plugs or something wrong with the plugs.

so i call my mechanic agean, and gets him to send me a new set of plugs.

installed the new plugs , AND GUESS WHAT its still CRAP......

so im getting closer and closer to just giving up for now. when my stepdad insists on me calling the manufacturer of the plugs

to dubblechek that i have the correct plugs.

so i call ACDelco in the us (i live in norway so that call is pretty expensive)

and guess what they tell me.

My damm idiot of a mechanic has sent me 2 sets of the wrong plug.....

he sent me the plugs named R45TS

ACDelco tells me that i need a plug named CR43TS

the r45ts plug is apperantly way to hot for my engine. 5L efi out of a 89mod.

Lesson learnt:

my mechanic dont know what hes doing, and he lost a customer.

i called up a another shop specializing in us cars and got them to send me a set of the correct plugs..

so now im just waiting for the new plugs to arrive and maaaybe i get to concentrate on something other

than getting the car to run.

25 Novemnber.

The race starts.

yesterday my daily driver (the audi) got a very unplesant meeting w the front end of a chevy suburban..

i was driving and boom out of a side road comes a chevy.

so as soon as i get the insurance money on it in gonna use them to fix up the bronco. >-

and it will be upgraded from side project to a rolling project car / daily driver.

il be updating as soon as ive heard from the insurance company,

but it looks like my bronco will be getting a whole ton of attention the comming month.