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rogmit

92 Ford Bronco fuel Issue

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I've got a 92 ford bronco with a 408 stroked engine. A couple of weeks ago I was going around the corner close to my house and my truck just died. I thought it was an ignition problem but it is a fuel problem evidently because it will try to start if I spray it with starting fluid but won't start. It sounds like the fuel pump comes on when the ignition is turned on, I hear the pump for a few minutes but then I don't hear anything. Anybody got any ideas or is it just the fuel pump that is in the tank and does anyone have any suggestions to put a fuel pump on it out of the tank if there is such a thing and what kind because it is a bit of a hassle drop the tank completely out and I've got about 20 gallons of gas in it right now.

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Yo Rog,

Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning

If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Was CEL ON when after starting and while driving?

 

Same for:

E4OD, If equipped, Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) , it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Was it flashing while driving?

 

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded

Some basics;

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test if you can get it running.

 

If you can, run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:

KOEO

& if it can run, KOER.

....

 

When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the fuel pump will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position, the PCM will shut the fuel pump off after approximately one second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump when the ignition is in the START position to provide fuel while cranking.

...

 

Instead of dropping that tank, consider a Cut-out Panel in rear cargo area for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement.

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at http://broncozone.com/topic/12329-gas-sender-unit-access-panel/

 

BTW, our Sponsor, Jeff's has the panel;

Rear Bed Patch Panel 48 x 16

Item Number: 34094

Unit Price: $35.00; New; 1980-96 Ford Bronco; 1980-96 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350

Part # 1981-098

See image @ http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Rear-Bed-Patch-Panel-48-x-16/productinfo/34094/

 

Also get a new lock ring & seal @ http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Fuel-Tanks/products/95/

..

 

Motorcraft PFB4 Fuel Pump and Hanger Assembly

Price: $305.78 & FREE Shipping on eligible orders. Details

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-PFB4-Fuel-Hanger-Assembly/dp/compatibility-chart/B000C5DR2G

 

List Price: $357.03

Only 2 left in stock (more on the way).

Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.

Want it Thursday, Jan. 12? Order within 17 hrs 51 mins and choose One-Day Shipping at checkout. Details

...

WARNING: FUEL IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE!! LOTS OF CAUTION NEEDS TO BE USED WHEN DOING THIS AND A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEEDS TO BE WITHIN A ARMS REACH.

 

Lessons Learned Source: by digitalbill (Bill Crozier);

".,,Please keep in mind that this was all done to a 1992 Bronco

1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed. Motorcraft is considered to be best pump. Check Amazon for best price.

 

2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation.

 

3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).

I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.

 

4: Speaking of cutting... I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.

 

5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...

 

6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy. Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy. *** miesk5 note, use a brass punch or chisel to break that ring off.. no sparks! ***

 

7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.

 

8: Also, the edges are sharp. let me clairify.

YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself..."

One more tip by crOsh, "To remove the ring, use something that won't spark. I used a foot-long piece of brass all-thread that I picked up at Ace Hardware. Aluminium rod might work as well (I decided on brass because it's a harder metal, and since the lock-ring is steel, it might dig into aluminium - but use what you can."

 

Cut-out Panel Fabrication pics for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in a 91

Source: by California Monkey (Richard, Mama Cass) at

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/16287/70344-4

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Yep did mine(94 Windsor) like seabronc works great used one one of the new wiggle saws but otherwise same same.

 

Whoabegone.

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Miesk5, the check engine light was on and still comes on when the ignition is turned to the on position and the overdrive light went out about a month ago and the check engine light would periodically come on an then go out I guess I can see what codes were in there previously because at this point it cranks but won't start. It had the wrong computer in it that Oreilyl's Auto parts sold me and it was causing transmission shift issues but it has the right one now but if it is bad it will take about 3 days to get it replaced. The Ford dealer matched the Vin number with correct ECM number and Oreilly's had sold me a computer for a standard automatic transmission and not one for an E4OD transmission so I don't know if that is screwed up either at this point until I get it running again.

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Yo Rog,

Incorrect ECM's happen too often from chain parts stores.

Look at Calibration Label Sticker on your driver's door jamb and compare;

calibration-code.jpg

pic by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB)

Supermotors is slow to open

Check the Calibration Code & Ford Part Number on the ECM

Location pic; on ECM in a 95 5.8; with Ford Part Number;

eecsticker2.jpg

His Calbration Code is B100

by marnefist

...

Cranks, but engine does not run

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1

by Abraham Torres-Arredondo

Ask local mom & pop parts stores if they will lend you a high energy spark tester, fuel pressure tester, an LED Light & multimeter. Abe writes about some of these in his narrative.

 

Abe begins with the ignition system and advises; "Spark was present in all of the cylinders A spark result, if you're using a dedicated spark tester, tells you that:

 

That the ignition control module is OK.

That the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor is OK.

That the ignition coil is doing dandy.

You don't have to spend any time testing them or any money replacing them."

...

 

The difference in ECMs between E4OD and an AOD is that the E4OD ECM is programmed for;

Brake on/off switch

BW 1356 Transfer Case's 4LOW input

Shift Solenoids: Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2, Coast Clutch Solenoid & Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid.

OD light, aka Transmission Control Switch (TCS) and Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL):

Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor

...

 

Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded

 

Some basics;

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

If you can get it running, drive it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

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