wrecked repair need help

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joshmccln

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well body is pretty much finished got a whole new front clip on and fan raditor trans cooler and motor mounts replaced but motor will not even try to turn over new bat also was wondering if there would be somthing in the computer that needed to be reset because of it being wrecked thanks for any help

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo Josh

Do you mean starter won't turn over?

If so;

First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans) that turns the starter over. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit.

Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.

Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily.

& If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch.

You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box.

StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG


If image is Not Allowed to be posted here, see it in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG

If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground).

If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS) Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS with an E4OD. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms such as changing solenoid to starter relay and deleting jumping large terminals on the relay.

Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)

Or starter will turn but engine does Not Start?

Check da Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch

Location pic in 92-96; as Steve83 pointed-out, "...The module I MIS-labelled as "Airbag" is actually the Wiper Control Module (WCM). The Airbag Diagnostic Module (ADM) is light blue, wrapped in black foam, above the gas pedal..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/inertia_switch_87-96.jpg

inertia_switch_87-96.jpg


Behind Passenger Side Kick Panel

"...An inertia switch is used as a safety device in the fuel system. The inertia switch is located in the cab, generally under the dashboard on the right side. It is designed to open the fuel pump power circuit in the event of a collision. The switch is reset by pushing each of 2 buttons on the switch simultaneously (some models use switches with only one reset button). The inertia switch should not be reset until the fuel system has been inspected for damage or leaks. When the ignition switch is ON, it turns the EEC power relay ON. The EEC power relay provides power to the powertrain control module (PCM) and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump(s) is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse, current flows through the fuel pump relay and inertia switch to the fuel pump(s). The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the fuel pump(s) will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position the PCM will shut the fuel pump(s) OFF after 1 second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump(s) operate the fuel pump(s) when the ignition switch is turn to START position to provide fuel while cranking. After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump(s) unless the engine stops, drops below 120 rpm or the inertia switch is tripped..." (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section

Source: by Chilton via AutoZone

 

AdamDude04

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Yeah I'd suspect the inertia switch if everything else was installed. Really the last thing people look for.

Also great for when replacing the fuel filter ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Other tests coming if I can get home soon & Comcast decides to install the new cables... someday

Check Grounds;

Locations in 92-96; "...Haynes manual. They list 10 separate grounds... A-J. A. Starter mounting bolt B. Right front of Engine compartment near the battery C. Lower left front of engine D. Right front of engine compartment on upper radiator support. E. Left front of engine compartment Upper radiator support F. Bottom of cowl panel G. Rear of left fender apron H. Behind bottom of right cowl panel I. Left rear corner of cargo area near rear lamp assembly J. Under center rear of vehicle on rear cross member..."

Source: by Haynes via BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

=========

awhile ago, I went thru my 1996 Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), Service, etc. Tech publication CD and saved this on Grounds:

10-2 Grounds

LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support (F7) G100

G101 RH front of engine compartment, front of fender apron (D1) - RH = Passenger side mine has 2 small black wirres near starter relay, One is for the PCM

G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine (C1)

Component

4WABS Pump Motor

Battery

Data Link Connector (DLC)

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L

Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.8L

Right Front Park/Turn Lamp

Right Front Side Marker Lamp

Right Headlamp

G104 Rear of LH fender apron (A9)

G200 Behind bottom of RH cowl panel (F7)

G201 Behind bottom of LH cowl panel (E1)

G400 Rear Window Defroster 56-1

LH rear corner of cargo area, near rear lamp assembly (F8)

G401 Trailer/Camper Adapter 95-3

LH rear corner of cargo area, near rear lamp assembly (F9)

10-3 Grounds

Component

A/C Clutch Diode

A/C Clutch Field Coil

Fuel Pump Module SPLICED Rear lamps harness, near T/O to fuel pump module

Left Backup Lamp

Left License Lamp

Left Rear Park/Stop/Turn Lamp

Right Backup Lamp

Right License Lamp

Right Rear Park/Stop/Turn Lamp

Transmission Range (TR) Sensor, with 4R70W Transmission

Transmission Range (TR) Sensor, with E4OD Transmission

Lower RH front of engine (C1)

Grounds 10-5

Behind bottom of RH cowl panel (F7)

Component

Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor

Electronic Shift Control Module

Instrument Cluster

Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM)

Remote/Keyless Entry Module

Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly

Grounds 10-6

Behind bottom of LH cowl panel (E1)

Component

Compass/Outside Temperature Module

Day/Night Mirror

Inside Cargo Lamp

Left Power Lumbar Compressor Motor

Outside Cargo/High Mount Stop Lamps

Right Power Lumbar Compressor Motor

Seat Belt Switch

G100 & G104 (tied together in diagram) Grounds 10-11

LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support (F7)

Grounds 10-11

Rear of LH fender apron (A9)

Grounds 10-11

Rear of LH fender apron (A9)

Component

4WABS Control Module

4WABS Data Link Connector

4WABS Relay #1

Instrument Cluster

Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L

Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.8L

Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM)

Trailer Relay Box

G100 LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support (F7)

Component

Fuel Pump Module

Inertia Fuel ShutoffMisfire Sensor

Misfire Sensor Shield

Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor

Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L

Grounds 10-6

Behind bottom of LH cowl panel (E1)

as you can see, some are repetitive because I haven't lined all these up yet. And the CD didn't show the battery ground yet... still need to look at it again when things slow down here.

I think I need a full session on the PC to coordinate all grounds to individual components, as well as linking them to every connector.

& on my 96, the RH Engine Ground also branches to RH firewall near heater box & down to frame

===========

If you can, get someone with an OBDII Scan tool to check it for KOEO Codes.

The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.

Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function

=========

More Tests will be for Spark, Fuel etc., such as:

No Spark Troubleshooting, General; "...Secondary ignition voltage can shock you. Do NOT hold or touch a spark plug wire while cranking the engine. disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. You can insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem..."

 

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