Won't shut off

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ColoradoBroncoman

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Hi, I have an 94 Bronco, that will not shut off. I can turn the truck on with the key but when I go to turn it off, the key ignition switch just keeps turning in a circle, it does not have the "OFF" position on the switch. I have changed the actual key ignition switch, and it is still the same. What other areas can I change to get the "OFF" position at the key? I would hate to spend 60-85 dollars for diagnostic and find out it was some little spring or cable that I can do myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS,

Rob

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Hi, I have an 94 Bronco, that will not shut off. I can turn the truck on with the key but when I go to turn it off, the key ignition switch just keeps turning in a circle, it does not have the "OFF" position on the switch. I have changed the actual key ignition switch, and it is still the same. What other areas can I change to get the "OFF" position at the key? I would hate to spend 60-85 dollars for diagnostic and find out it was some little spring or cable that I can do myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS,

Rob
Rob,

If I understand this (am trying to finish some work now and am dizzy from the volume of work) you replaced the electrical part?

If so;

Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement; "Disonnect battery negative cable...turn the key to ACC, use a paper clip and push through the small hole in the steering column under the lock cylinder till you feel the pin inside sink a bit, then turn the key to RUN (try the "off but unlocked" position if "run" don't work out), and pull the whole cylinder out. Install the new one in a reverse manner, it may not wanna slide in all the way the first time, and may take a bit of wiggling the key front-back till everything lines up. New lock cylinder with keys is like $12 from AutoZone..."

and by Steve; "...Install ignition switch. Align pin from ignition switch with slot in lock/column assembly. Position slot in lock/column assembly with index mark on casting. Ignition switch should be in RUN position..."

 
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ColoradoBroncoman

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Rob,If I understand this (am trying to finish some work now and am dizzy from the volume of work) you replaced the electrical part?

If so;

Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement; "Disonnect battery negative cable...turn the key to ACC, use a paper clip and push through the small hole in the steering column under the lock cylinder till you feel the pin inside sink a bit, then turn the key to RUN (try the "off but unlocked" position if "run" don't work out), and pull the whole cylinder out. Install the new one in a reverse manner, it may not wanna slide in all the way the first time, and may take a bit of wiggling the key front-back till everything lines up. New lock cylinder with keys is like $12 from AutoZone..."

and by Steve; "...Install ignition switch. Align pin from ignition switch with slot in lock/column assembly. Position slot in lock/column assembly with index mark on casting. Ignition switch should be in RUN position..."

I have replaced the "KEY" switch already, but it does not stop the key from turning freely in the ignition. I did not change anything else. What else can change to see if the Key will shut it off.

THANKS,

Rob

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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I have replaced the "KEY" switch already, but it does not stop the key from turning freely in the ignition. I did not change anything else. What else can change to see if the Key will shut it off.
THANKS,

Rob
ok,

If you have tilt; Could be a problem w/plastic "gear rack" that connects lock cylinder to the ignition switch

You'll prob. have to replace da two shift lock actuator rods

and/or the plastic rack - it's pin that may have come out/or bearing retainer ;

They all often break due to heavy key rings or abuse by thieves

they all are in in the steering column - there are a lot of parts in there and you have to remove strg wheel (and you have the air bag issue with it)

See some of the process here w/diagrams;

For 92-96 Source: by Steve83 it's a Crown Vic but = to our Broncos

Suggest you purchase the Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), Service, PC/ED CD if you want to give it a shot.

Try ebay; for less than $10.00

Dealer will charge ~ $150.00 for parts & labor for this.

Sorry, my PC is freezing on some web sites in other windows, so I lost a lot of other info for you just now.

I'll post this before I lose all this info too

EDIT; glad this great Forum has a reply "Save" feature! When I posted this reply, it poped-out a Server Busy Error message!

 
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