Won't sart using Keys
- Thread starter stevel15
- Start date
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Hi Steve, welcome...!
Your description is a bit vague but assuming you mean the LARGE posts on the solenoid.....& the key is in the run position, then yes, the solenoid is likely the culprit.
If you're jumping the small plug-on posts, then it's another issue.
Your description is a bit vague but assuming you mean the LARGE posts on the solenoid.....& the key is in the run position, then yes, the solenoid is likely the culprit.
If you're jumping the small plug-on posts, then it's another issue.
Sorry yes, I'm jumping the large posts on the slenoid with the key in the on position.
You can "wack" on the solenoid with a wood dowel or screwdriver handle while someone else turns the key. If it trys to catch., you'll know for sure it's the solenoid.
If $$$ is an issue., you can drill out the rivets & flip over the "contact" or file it clean for a quick fix. Although, they're not very expensive.
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If $$$ is an issue., you can drill out the rivets & flip over the "contact" or file it clean for a quick fix. Although, they're not very expensive.
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
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yo,
As Bully Bob Advised;
Internal Relay Terminal (contact) Corrosion;
by Steve
Starter Wiring Diagram in a 96 from EVTM ; from Ignition Switch to Starter; Note that Ford often confuses us by labelling the Manual Lever Position as a "Transmission Range (TR) Sensor; or as Steve describes below as the "neutral switch".
Try this:
If the starter works as it did when you bridged the relay's Large Posts, but doesn't work using the key, bridge from the rear post (the one with the LARGER cable) to the small (S) post. If the starter works, the relay is good and the fault is between the ignition switch & the relay (clutch switch or MLPS (in automatic tranny (E4OD)). If not, the fault is at the relay. If the relay didn't click, either it's not grounded (check to see if it is secure to inner fender or there is rust or grime between inner fender and relay body), or its coil is burned out. If it did, its contacts are corroded as the top R pic shows.
The relay trigger wire (R/LB) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N.
By Steve
No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relayshould be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the MLPS, Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit.
Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.
Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the MLPS
You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground).
If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the MLPS Or clutch safety switch.
There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay.
Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper;
As Bully Bob Advised;
Internal Relay Terminal (contact) Corrosion;
by Steve
Starter Wiring Diagram in a 96 from EVTM ; from Ignition Switch to Starter; Note that Ford often confuses us by labelling the Manual Lever Position as a "Transmission Range (TR) Sensor; or as Steve describes below as the "neutral switch".
Try this:
If the starter works as it did when you bridged the relay's Large Posts, but doesn't work using the key, bridge from the rear post (the one with the LARGER cable) to the small (S) post. If the starter works, the relay is good and the fault is between the ignition switch & the relay (clutch switch or MLPS (in automatic tranny (E4OD)). If not, the fault is at the relay. If the relay didn't click, either it's not grounded (check to see if it is secure to inner fender or there is rust or grime between inner fender and relay body), or its coil is burned out. If it did, its contacts are corroded as the top R pic shows.
The relay trigger wire (R/LB) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N.
By Steve
No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relayshould be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the MLPS, Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit.
Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.
Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the MLPS
You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground).
If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the MLPS Or clutch safety switch.
There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay.
Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper;
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