Window switch help

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ZacEwbank

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I have a 88 bronco and the tailgate window won't go down I'm sure the switch is bad bc it doesn't click when you press it up but does when you press it down. None of my local auto parts stores can get the switch does anyone know of a reliable and affordable place to order the switch? Please help

 

Skitter302

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34577A.jpg

I had the same problem trying to acquire my switch for the rear window. I found mine on ebay as NOS stock for $40 and it arrives tomorrow in the mail.

the Bco Gave has one for $60 ... http://shop.broncograveyard.com/1987-1991-Ford-Bronco-Rear-Window-Switch-On-Dash/productinfo/34577/

A simple google search pulled up this part for $20 http://www.partsgeek.com/zn57hrm-ford-bronco-window-switch.html but people complain about slow shipping an poor customer service if you have any issues.

If you don't mind used parts, there are a few on ebay still.

To change the switch remove the knobs on the wiper fluid and headlights. then pop off the panel. It will look like you just removed the complete bottom left corner of your dash. The switch is only held in by 2 screws.

 
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Skitter302

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Got My new switch in and took some photos for those wondering how much work is involved.

IMG_0269.JPG

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IMG_0271.JPG

 

miesk5

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Yo Zac,

Here is a switch contact cleaning by Phil;

"I removed the switch from the dash harness and again removed the rocker switch cover from the body of the switch. I noticed there are (4) contact points for each copper tab within the switch (1 copper tab for "up" and 1 copper tab for "down). (2) contact points for up, (2) are for down. These contact points really resemble a "points" ignition system on an old car, where there is a small metal disc attached to a flimsy piece of flat metal (in this instance, copper) and the two discs make contact to generate a spark or electricty. If any of you know about a points ignition system, the contact points eventually get "burnt" or worn due to the constant electrical pulses when the system is operational (or in this case, when the switch is depressed up or down). To remedy this, I took a small jeweler's flat head ***** driver and carefully scratched the surfaces of all (4) contact points. This in turn removed the corroded or burnt surfaces and revealed "new metal" from under the worn surfaces. After cleaning the contact points, I then squirted the electrical contact cleaner all over the switch front & back again, popped the rocker switch cover back onto the main switch body and reinstalled into the dash.

Now I was able to get the rear tailgate window to go UP and DOWN smoothly!!! I tested this multiple times, over and over - with KOEO and KOEO, the switch worked flawlessly like new again!"

 

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