What Did you Do With Your Bronco Today???

[Jimbo26]

[QUOTE="johnnyreb, post: 148689, member: 25464"
Called the parts store AGAIN this morning---never came in.
[/QUOTE]
Maybe this time next year?
Treated the plenum to a thorough hose out with the steam cleaner at work.
Entire intake system was coked, took 30 min to clean the TB out.
Also did the 'delete-O' thang today.
TG that part is over with!
Pulled the injectors for a go-over.
Nowhere to go but back up with the mill area now.

 

[Jimbo26]

Finally going back together with the induction. What a hel of a mess this chore has been. I tried to cheap-out and replace just the lower O-rings on the injectors, the rail just Had to cut one of the upper ones on install.
Back to the parts house!

 

[Jimbo26]

Finally all back together and running again.
Still, something just not quite right about it so ran a compression test.
Once I got to tinkering with the thing, I figured there was going to be a 50/50 chance of a needing a refresher on it.

 

[johnnyreb]

Finally all back together and running again.
Still, something just not quite right about it so ran a compression test.
Once I got to tinkering with the thing, I figured there was going to be a 50/50 chance of a needing a refresher on it.

Got the parts in. Now waiting for the rain to stop. So I on get the parts back on.

 

[Jimbo26]

Officially a TX vehicle now.
Fresh rubber for the back top of the shell, then the plunge into the bowels of the tailgate. Another heckuva mess to clean up.
When I first opened up the 'gate, I was in a bit of a quandary- Paper? About the same grade as news print. Did the factory really do this? I've worked on a few relics that had real wooden parts and everything is so much plastic nowadays, but paper??
The parts house struck out on getting a fresh lift motor that would fit, same with the support cables. Might as well have been a Monday. Tomorrow's gotta be better.

 

[johnnyreb]

Yo Bobby,

Welcome!

Previous owners often devise off the wall "fixes".

When you have time, please fill out Profile and Signature with year, engine/tranny/Xfer case/hub type info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.

Try to limit any questions you have to one per post so we don't get confused because I am old and often forget my name.

Click your name in right black panel in upper right;

In pop up,

Click, My Profile

Click, Edit My Profile in right side black panel

In left panel, Click, Edit Signature

Enter info

Click, Save Changes

Looking forward to pics and helping!

Hey Mike,could you change my dob to 1950? Thanks

 

[Jimbo26]

Today, R&R the Ds window motor, remove the door linkage to delouse and what proved to be rather difficult was getting the connector tabs for the rear window heating element re-attatched. (both were dangling in their wire connectors upon removing the access panel) No kind of solder that we had available wanted to stick to the element- resin or acid core. Wth did the factory use for this?? We finally got it to stick ok enough using a-core solder after some intense and tedious artistry to get the solder to actually flow into the voids decent enough. Continuity checked out so Gorilla epoxy for a final coat. After all this I discover there really is conductive silver epoxy available.
The uphill climb continues.

 

[johnnyreb]

Today, R&R the Ds window motor, remove the door linkage to delouse and what proved to be rather difficult was getting the connector tabs for the rear window heating element re-attatched. (both were dangling in their wire connectors upon removing the access panel) No kind of solder that we had available wanted to stick to the element- resin or acid core. Wth did the factory use for this?? We finally got it to stick ok enough using a-core solder after some intense and tedious artistry to get the solder to actually flow into the voids decent enough. Continuity checked out so Gorilla epoxy for a final coat. After all this I discover there really is conductive silver epoxy available.
The uphill climb continues.

They also have SILVER SOLDER---did you try it and you do have to use the rel hot gas fot it--likr in thr yellow bottle or torch gas---from what I heard and read. Good luck.

 

[Jimbo26]

They also have SILVER SOLDER---did you try it and you do have to use the rel hot gas fot it--likr in thr yellow bottle or torch gas---from what I heard and read. Good luck.

No s/s available at that time. We tried a propane torch & the solder used just drew up into a clump. Took a lot of artistry to make the stuff flow back out, but we got it and is now overcoated with the 2 stage epoxy and Ω at 1.0

 

[Jimbo26]

Yesterday was replace the hood/cowl seal, today all the rubber brake drop-lines.
Poor flow out the rear wheel cyls so that's looking like more R&R work.
It's a big adventure.

 

[Jimbo26]

Now that all the doors & windows are working again (minus the electric door lock solenoids) Its time to move on to the brakes. 2 new bleeders on the front after putting everything I had on a pair of vise grips to get one side broke loose, it didn't survive the process very well. Front done and working.
Rear brakes will be more problematic.
Dash is lit up like a Xmas tree for the brakes, just hope I don't end up with Rabs-itis.
Wth did the previous management put the lug nuts on with? My 3/4 drive makita electric couldn't budge some of them, even after treating with WD every few days for weeks. <g> Had to use a 2.5' breaker bar & really bow up on a few of them. Introduction to anti-seize.
Much better.
It would appear these rear brakes have not been functional in a Long time! Can get barely any fluid out of them so next stop, new cyls.
Pic 1- my scribe is pointing to the piece that fell out on the ground when I first removed the drum. Another 'Wth' moment
More previous (mis)management .

 

[Jimbo26]

Service the trans. day and modify the pan for a Permanent gasket.
4 gallons of Atf is Not as cheap as it use to be.
(T-G it wasn't Type V)

 

[johnnyreb]

Now that all the doors & windows are working again (minus the electric door lock solenoids) Its time to move on to the brakes. 2 new bleeders on the front after putting everything I had on a pair of vise grips to get one side broke loose, it didn't survive the process very well. Front done and working.
Rear brakes will be more problematic.
Dash is lit up like a Xmas tree for the brakes, just hope I don't end up with Rabs-itis.
Wth did the previous management put the lug nuts on with? My 3/4 drive makita electric couldn't budge some of them, even after treating with WD every few days for weeks. <g> Had to use a 2.5' breaker bar & really bow up on a few of them. Introduction to anti-seize.
Much better.
It would appear these rear brakes have not been functional in a Long time! Can get barely any fluid out of them so next stop, new cyls.
Pic 1- my scribe is pointing to the piece that fell out on the ground when I first removed the drum. Another 'Wth' moment
More previous (mis)management .

Service the trans. day and modify the pan for a Permanent gasket.
4 gallons of Atf is Not as cheap as it use to be.
(T-G it wasn't Type V)

It took 4 GALLON?

 

[johnnyreb]

I got the oil pump, screen and pan back on mine today. Hoping to have it all back tomorrow. If the weather holds out.

 

[johnnyreb]

I got the oil pump, screen and pan back on mine today. Hoping to have it all back tomorrow. If the weather holds out.

Well we tried the MELLINGS OIL PUMP TODAY -------AND NOTHING. A person does all that work and a person buys junk to work with. . This is TWO ---MELLINGS PUMPS I HAVE HAD BAD LUCK WITH. NO MORE MELLINGS FOR ME.

 

[johnnyreb]

Well we tried the MELLINGS OIL PUMP TODAY -------AND NOTHING. A person does all that work and a person buys junk to work with. . This is TWO ---MELLINGS PUMPS I HAVE HAD BAD LUCK WITH. NO MORE MELLINGS FOR ME.

I also checked for complaints about MELLINGS OIL PUMPS and they have alot of complaints.. I must have gotten 2 bad pumps.

 

[goodO1boydws]

Did the Dome light mod on my Bco.

View attachment 26842

Too this,

View attachment 26843

~Light is out of a 1999 Expedition

I can't really call it a mod because putting in the new light required no wire switching or nothing just plug and play.

The chrome dome light with the 2 map light switches looks exactly like the ones that were in my 1982, 1987, and 1989 Country Squires and LTD Crown Vic.

 

[goodO1boydws]

I also checked for complaints about MELLINGS OIL PUMPS and they have alot of complaints.. I must have gotten 2 bad pumps.

Not necessarily the pump.
(You didn't indicate what was wrong about them.)

A few things to consider.

2 brand new Melling pumps in a row being bad would be highly suspect-in my experience. But being given the wrong pump for your APPLICATION is quite possible.

You did try priming the pumps by hand before installing-to see if they worked then, right? And also checked the SIZE of the hex recess in each pump, against the OLD rod size, right?

Ford used 2 drive rod diameters in the older cars, 1/4" and 5/16".

The 1/4" rod is used mostly on the 302 and smaller engines, while the 5/16" is mostly used on 351's and and above.

Its not unheard of for a "substitute" pump to be in a factory engine when parts shortages are going on. If, FOR EXAMPLE you were sent a 5/16" drive pump but your particular engine uses a 1/4" drive rod, that would be the simplest explanation. Whether it came that way from the factory or someone put the wrong pump in for the application, or someone swapped DISTRIBUTORS at some point.

(And sometimes aftermarket suppliers will not stock pumps for every year/engine application or show a pump mating with parts where it shouldn't, or have a typo creep in for the pump number.)

Barring that.

Mehanical rotor oil pumps are very simple, they either work or they don't-but the reasons for one no longer working can be one of several.

RARELY, the hex drive ROD right at the pump or distributor end will get rounded off enough to not drive the pump, but if lubrication at both ends of the drive rod is good, if the pump jams, usually the drive rod will snap before then.
MANY PEOPLE NEVER LOOK CLOSELY AT OR **** THE TOP END OF THE DRIVE ROD because if the original thin push nut/clinching washer is still there, it stays up in the engine.

The problems with the drive rod usually stem from hard crud or gasket material making it through the screen, which then puts a LOT OF BACK PRESSURE on the pump and eventually jams the pump rotor. Its also possible from a large accumulation of varnish or metal shavings to do the same thing.

Its not unknown for the hex recess in the distributor or that end of teh rod to wear just enough for the rod to not be turning when the distributor is. Or for the roll pin that holds the distributor DRIVE GEAR onto the distributor shaft to shear. If THAT happens the gear is no longer locked onto the shaft and the drive rod won't be turning.

And then there's the bugaboo of a stuck OPEN oil pressure relief valve not allowing oil pressure to build sufficiently.....
If you have one of those, and it went on for some time with the engine running, there may have been be a lot of engine damage happening to bearings.

 

[johnnyreb]

Not necessarily the pump.
(You didn't indicate what was wrong about them.)

A few things to consider.

2 brand new Melling pumps in a row being bad would be highly suspect-in my experience. But being given the wrong pump for your APPLICATION is quite possible.

You did try priming the pumps by hand before installing-to see if they worked then, right? And also checked the SIZE of the hex recess in each pump, against the OLD rod size, right?

Ford used 2 drive rod diameters in the older cars, 1/4" and 5/16".

The 1/4" rod is used mostly on the 302 and smaller engines, while the 5/16" is mostly used on 351's and and above.

Its not unheard of for a "substitute" pump to be in a factory engine when parts shortages are going on. If, FOR EXAMPLE you were sent a 5/16" drive pump but your particular engine uses a 1/4" drive rod, that would be the simplest explanation. Whether it came that way from the factory or someone put the wrong pump in for the application, or someone swapped DISTRIBUTORS at some point.

(And sometimes aftermarket suppliers will not stock pumps for every year/engine application or show a pump mating with parts where it shouldn't, or have a typo creep in for the pump number.)

Barring that.

Mehanical rotor oil pumps are very simple, they either work or they don't-but the reasons for one no longer working can be one of several.

RARELY, the hex drive ROD right at the pump or distributor end will get rounded off enough to not drive the pump, but if lubrication at both ends of the drive rod is good, if the pump jams, usually the drive rod will snap before then.
MANY PEOPLE NEVER LOOK CLOSELY AT OR **** THE TOP END OF THE DRIVE ROD because if the original thin push nut/clinching washer is still there, it stays up in the engine.

The problems with the drive rod usually stem from hard crud or gasket material making it through the screen, which then puts a LOT OF BACK PRESSURE on the pump and eventually jams the pump rotor. Its also possible from a large accumulation of varnish or metal shavings to do the same thing.

Its not unknown for the hex recess in the distributor or that end of teh rod to wear just enough for the rod to not be turning when the distributor is. Or for the roll pin that holds the distributor DRIVE GEAR onto the distributor shaft to shear. If THAT happens the gear is no longer locked onto the shaft and the drive rod won't be turning.

And then there's the bugaboo of a stuck OPEN oil pressure relief valve not allowing oil pressure to build sufficiently.....
If you have one of those, and it went on for some time with the engine running, there may have been be a lot of engine damage happening to bearings.

the oil filter) still no oil after we tried priming it. I was just thinking. It could have a oil air lock. Which doesn,t happen often. To get it out is start the motor and loosen up the oil filter and tighten it back up--after it shoots oil ever place. . We are gonna try and check it out again tomorrow--if the weather permits. Thanks

 

[johnnyreb]

the oil filter) still no oil after we tried priming it. I was just thinking. It could have a oil air lock. Which doesn,t happen often. To get it out is start the motor and loosen up the oil filter and tighten it back up--after it shoots oil ever place. . We are gonna try and check it out again tomorrow--if the weather permits. Thanks

Neiher pump was pumping oil