so my 1993 with a 351 and e4od starts acting funny yesterday. starts idling erraticly and feeling like it is misfiring. I do a KOEO and KOER and the KOEO passes, when I do the KOER, it does nothing until I step on the brake and then the engine tachs up to about 2000 rpm and the check engine light flashes four times. I can't find a code that matches this 1111 code. any suggestions out there
trouble code
- Thread starter chris93
- Start date
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Krafty
New member
Fuel system problems usually don't throw codes. check your fuel pressure when its acting up.
Krafty
New member
" it just dribbled out.."
your fuel rail when pressurized should be at 15 to 30 psi
your fuel rail when pressurized should be at 15 to 30 psi
yeah but that was without the engine running, but after I turned the key and pump went off. I replaced the fuel pump last year, so I'm wondering if it has failed again. I did start filling it with ethanol free gas, maybe this boogered something up. i dont have a gauge to put on the fuel rail but so far seems like she's not getting enough fuel. Is it possible the filter is simply clogged up?
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Elmo
Member
obstructed feuel filter is a possibility. really need a fuelpress guage to verify proper fuel press. but a fuel filter is a cheep fix or atleast an easy check. remove the fuel filter and attempt to blow through it, i use my mouth to check and a beer to get rid of the gass taste, you should be able to blow through it fairly easily once you have blown the remaining gass out of it. if it is hard to blow through and not much gas comming out then it is too restricted. If i am not mistaken the reccomended replacement interval for the fuel filter is like 20k miles.
back to the dribbling fuel from the fuel rail. if you turn the key on and hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds and immediately depress the schrader valve in the rail the fuel should spurt up a couple of inches then almost stop. that would indicate that you PROBABLY have adequate fuel press. NO GUARANTEE THO.
back to the dribbling fuel from the fuel rail. if you turn the key on and hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds and immediately depress the schrader valve in the rail the fuel should spurt up a couple of inches then almost stop. that would indicate that you PROBABLY have adequate fuel press. NO GUARANTEE THO.
gotcha, thats basically what is happening and what I did with the schrader valve. the pump humms, then fuel shoots up about 6-8 inches. I bought a filter yesterday but didnt have time to install. it has the internal clips which I can't ever seem to get un done, but thats why I'm up nice an early. Thanks for the input and I'll keep you posted
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Krafty
New member
you know you need that special tool to remove the lines (makes it easier) there is one with a handle and what not but I just use the plastic ones which just sits around the line then you push it towards the fitting to release the spring and pull the line back. presto.
gl
Krafty
gl
Krafty
yo
On the KOER portion of the test;
111 = System pass
here are the excerpts from my pal BroncoJoe19
You preheat the engine and turn her off.
Shut off all electrical accessories or disconnect them (radio, CB's, lighting, etc.).
set your jumper wire and start her up.
After you get four flashes, or sweeps (three flashes or sweeps for a 6 cyl).
you depress and release the brake pedal, turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn, push the OD on off switch, THEN after a single flash... snap the throttle (push it all the way to the floor once) See Edit Below.
Then get ready to read your codes.
FYI 111 is a pass code.
Miesk5 Note; you heard the idle change, ehich is part of the EEC's responding to the test...
EDIT... prior to doing the throttle test, one should wait for the signal to do so. The signal is a single quick flash. Aparrantly some trucks do not require it, and it should not be performed without being prompted to do so.
But it prob is the 111 code; so change the filter.
Scissors Type Tool for Air Conditioning & EFI Fuel Lines
K-D 3321
Video; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by displayfireworks2008 at
Installation & Diagrams; Scissors Type;
ON COLD ENGINE and no smoking ONLY; Release pressure in fuel lines. Remove the valve stem style cap and lay a rag over the valve. Use a small phillips head ***** driver to push in the stem and relieve the pressure.
Steve did not mention it in his narrative.
"...Step 1: For the best chance of getting it apart on the first try, start by pushing the coupling together HARD so the fingers of the bail are NOT touching the catch ring on the filter. Step 2: While holding the coupling firmly together, insert the tool (I prefer the regular or low-profile scissor) fully. It may be necessary to rotate the tool so its gap does NOT align with any of the fingers, thus holding them all clear of the catch ring. Step 3: With the tool fully against the catch ring, pull the filter & tool out of the coupling..." Read More; Steve also shows Collar/clamshell tools
V
Source: by Steve http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/497461
On the KOER portion of the test;
111 = System pass
here are the excerpts from my pal BroncoJoe19
You preheat the engine and turn her off.
Shut off all electrical accessories or disconnect them (radio, CB's, lighting, etc.).
set your jumper wire and start her up.
After you get four flashes, or sweeps (three flashes or sweeps for a 6 cyl).
you depress and release the brake pedal, turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn, push the OD on off switch, THEN after a single flash... snap the throttle (push it all the way to the floor once) See Edit Below.
Then get ready to read your codes.
FYI 111 is a pass code.
Miesk5 Note; you heard the idle change, ehich is part of the EEC's responding to the test...
EDIT... prior to doing the throttle test, one should wait for the signal to do so. The signal is a single quick flash. Aparrantly some trucks do not require it, and it should not be performed without being prompted to do so.
But it prob is the 111 code; so change the filter.
Scissors Type Tool for Air Conditioning & EFI Fuel Lines
K-D 3321
Video; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by displayfireworks2008 at
Installation & Diagrams; Scissors Type;
ON COLD ENGINE and no smoking ONLY; Release pressure in fuel lines. Remove the valve stem style cap and lay a rag over the valve. Use a small phillips head ***** driver to push in the stem and relieve the pressure.
Steve did not mention it in his narrative.
"...Step 1: For the best chance of getting it apart on the first try, start by pushing the coupling together HARD so the fingers of the bail are NOT touching the catch ring on the filter. Step 2: While holding the coupling firmly together, insert the tool (I prefer the regular or low-profile scissor) fully. It may be necessary to rotate the tool so its gap does NOT align with any of the fingers, thus holding them all clear of the catch ring. Step 3: With the tool fully against the catch ring, pull the filter & tool out of the coupling..." Read More; Steve also shows Collar/clamshell tools
V
Source: by Steve http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/497461
okay got the fuel filter replaced and yeah, a bit nasty. still running rough though. did another KOER test as you said and got this code. 111 111, I did this twice and got the same results, hopefully the timing of the pauses wasnt off. but I read this to be a 33 code. not sure what that is for yet though
Krafty
New member
when was the last time you checked / gapped your plugs?
yo,
DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace any bad vac lines. for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end;
Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load.
DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace any bad vac lines. for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end;
Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load.
okay so pulled all the vacuum lines. the only one that had no effect on engine behavior was a green line connected to a sensor mounted to the left of the coil. Sorry I'm not sure what this sensor is.. it looks to connect to the valve, which I'm guessing is the EGR valve that mounts to left of the intake manifold next to the air intake hoses. when I pulled this it had very little suction.
yo Chris,
This will help ID the parts; but some vac lines in your 93 may have been switched to black, so go by the routing description by Seattle.
The sensor mounted to the left of the coil is the TAB & TAD Valves or EVR Valve
the Yellow Vacuum Line goes from the TAD Solenoid (driver's side forward solenoid) to the TAD (Diverter) Valve located at the rear of the Intake Manifold. You have to climb up onto the engine to feel the Diverter Valve or remove the Intake Manifold..The Pink Vacuum Line goes from the TAB Solenoid (driver's side rear solenoid) to the passenger side (adjacent to the Vacuum Reservoir Can) and down to the bottom of the TAB (Bypass) Valve.."
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB)
EGR Valve & EVP (atop egr valve), Thermactor Air Bypass Valve (TAB) Location pic in a 93 5.8
Source: by Steve83
This will help ID the parts; but some vac lines in your 93 may have been switched to black, so go by the routing description by Seattle.
The sensor mounted to the left of the coil is the TAB & TAD Valves or EVR Valve
the Yellow Vacuum Line goes from the TAD Solenoid (driver's side forward solenoid) to the TAD (Diverter) Valve located at the rear of the Intake Manifold. You have to climb up onto the engine to feel the Diverter Valve or remove the Intake Manifold..The Pink Vacuum Line goes from the TAB Solenoid (driver's side rear solenoid) to the passenger side (adjacent to the Vacuum Reservoir Can) and down to the bottom of the TAB (Bypass) Valve.."
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB)
EGR Valve & EVP (atop egr valve), Thermactor Air Bypass Valve (TAB) Location pic in a 93 5.8
Source: by Steve83
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