Transmission Replacment Ugh!

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

gearheadmike

New member
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Hello, Well i got a 96 bronco xl 302 5 speed manual. The prob i got is when i bought the truck i noticed is when down shifting into 2 it will gind sometimes it wont but most times it does. Shifting up through the gears its just fine. I changed the fliud in it and when i pulled the plug there was metal on the magnet. I added new but still no change and it seems the trans is noisy as heck! some times when shifting up into 3rd gear it seems to chirp like. Clutch fluid is up to the right mark so im thinking its the scyncros going bad in the trans? What year trans will interchange with this i know f150 but will a 6cyl std trans fit my 5.0? I will be getting a new clutch also. I have a really strong feeling this is going to be a Pain in the A$$ To change.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,078
Reaction score
1,037
Location
Floating in the Pacific
yo Mike,

Do you use clutch to downshift?

If not, try clutching.

A GUESS - the synchros

---

Known problems include:

leaks from shift rail plugs #481 & 484 (see them in Parts Break-Out Diagram below; M5ODs have a habit of leaking out fluid when the rubber plugs on the top of the tranmission fall apart)

***** &/or master cylinder

sensitivity to fluid level & quality

weak shifter susceptible to wear

I'll give you the relevant info I have in case others here have better info on those symptoms:

Clutch Noise

Insufficient clutch pedal free play.

Damaged clutch release hub and bearing.

Poor lubrication of clutch release hub and bearing sleeve.

Damaged or worn transmission input shaft pilot bearing.

Worn pivot points or clutch release lever (if equipped).

Excessive crankshaft end play.

GO to Pinpoint Test H.

---------------

As for replacing the M5OD; read this article;

M5OD 5 Speed Transmission Overview

Source: by Mike W

http://www.rsgear.com/articles/1993_11.pdf

such as;

make sure donor is for 4 wheel drive

check ID Tag located on the driver's side of the cass to ensure it is compatible

transtags.jpg

------------

M5OD Parts Break-Out Diagram w/ Nomenclature

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:kdW5pElLiqwJ:www.transtar1.com/catDownload.asp?ID%3D609+M5R2+Shift+Stick&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEEShXrfPqvtgCgNzB-a9FN3uwWkKdfIy6_x0iqbfTXcfvlTx5GjkRD3lSixh4Gel6VvGpPAuzVQdAdubL8ZQD6J8oKURIqppaJeOyi8gsDeab45nxsZzqD2upvX_Lw60OTYlC52Is&sig=AHIEtbShppkjurNmJP4Xnhp57p1_67bPtA

===

Shifter **** is pressed-on

To remove the shifter, remove the 17mm nut from the passenger side of the stud, and install it on the driver's side. Tighten it until it loosens, then push the stud out to the driver's side. Remove the shifter.

---------

M5OD Disassembly & Assembly Procedures in a 95

M5OD Disassembly & Assembly of Sub-Assemblies in a 94

-------

M5OD 5 Speed Transmission Disc, Pressure Plate & ***** Cylinder Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in 96 Bronco& F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab; Miesk5 Note, Ford often calls it the R2 or M5OD-R2 transmission

Same for your year.

---------

SBW12 wrote;

Chatter could be the shift forks. Mine were pretty wore out but I didn't care, I went the ZF5 route. It's a direct bolt in and a much better tranny with granny low and taller OD.. Those forks aren't too hard to replace because they are attached to the top cover and you can get to it through the tranny tunnel, don't even have to drop the transmission

S5-47 Swap pics from M5OD in a 95

Source: by Pepper (J A F O, Big Pig) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/37/18885

 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP
G

gearheadmike

New member
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Yea i use clutch to and no leaking fluids or anything im thinking its just its time i had a 94 f150 and it had a bad 3rd but it was a 2wd wich was easier to drop i found one today for $300. Id like to hear more about the ZF5 trans/swap?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,078
Reaction score
1,037
Location
Floating in the Pacific
yo,

ok

This is all I have;

S5-42 Swap from M5OD in a 95 F 150; pics are gone

Source: by gijoe4500; he swapped using a contraption from inside of cab, instaed of from underneath

joint straps are 13mm.

3rd gear synchros were going out anyhow.

Crossmember bolts are 15mm, nuts are 18mm.

Transmission mount nuts are 18mm as well.

Didn't have a socket that fit the drain plug. Had to use my Crescent wrench.

Unclipped the reverse light plug.

The attempted to remove the hydraulic line with the proper tool. Didn't work. ****** me off. I cut the line.

Next were the dust shield bolts. They are 3/8". Couldn't find my 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter. So I had to use a wrench. If it wasn't a ratcheting wrench, I probably would have given up. I mean come on, there were TWO bolts.

Next was the starter bolts. These took a 13mm wrench. Couldn't get the impact in there. Don't have a 13mm ratcheting wrench. Had to go old school. It was rough.

Next up were the bellhousing bolts. Four of them. They're 16mm. I had to get this one from underneath the truck.

The other three I got from inside the cab.

Transmission mount bolts were 13mm. Were stuck on there good too. Had to use another wrench as a cheater to bust them lose. Bolts were red. Damned Lock-tite.

To remove the shifter, you take the nut off the passenger side of the bolt goin' through the shifter, move it to the other side, and just tighten the **** out of it. It'll eventually spin free.

Wouldn't be hard to change a clutch without ever dropping the transmission all the way.

Who needs a floor jack. I have a ratchet strap.

And finally, its out of my truck.

Down to the clutch. Six 14mm bolts hold it on.

No pics of it, but I had to use a slide hammer to pull the pilot bearing out.

Old ***** cylinder.

***** cylinder out.

How to spend $310... 11" clutch, new ***** cylinder, new master cylinder, new clutch hose.

New ***** cylinder installed.

New pilot bearing and clutch installed.

Gotta remember to pull out the alignment tool.

Lubing up the hole

Lifted transmission into place and stabbed it in

Tightened it all up. 16mm socket.

From here on, I'm not gonna bother with too many more pictures. Its pretty much gonna be all the same pictures, just in reverse order. Of course, finished up with a transfer case being slapped on the end of the transmission.

Got the transmission crossmember up and in place. This will be coming out in the future with either a 4x4 crossmember, or a custom build crossmember.

Two 10mm bolts hold the shifter to transmission.

Put the transmission cover back on. 5/16" wrench.

Started taking off the transfer case "delete" plate.

Can't get it pried off because Ford used something stronger than duct tape to hold it down. This shit was like duct tape mixed with gorilla glue, and welded together with a bailing wire filler. So I had to take the transmission cover off again, so I can get a screwdriver and a hammer to to the top side, to pry it up.

Both covers are off.

Put the transmission cover BACK on.

Put the transfer case shifter in place. Need to buy a bolt and nut to tighten the shifter down.

Split my transfer case from the old transmission.

Had to clean off this old gasket. Was a royal pain in the ass.

Nuts on the u-joint straps were rounded off and rusty. Cut the u-joint straps with my grinder. Then knocked the pieces through the yoke with a hammer and a punch.

Yoke is pretty rough looking, but I suppose it could be worse.

Silicone gasket applied to the back of the transmission, as per the directions on the silicone.

Hefted the transfer case into place and tightened it down. Six 13mm bolts.

 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
22,667
Messages
136,905
Members
25,365
Latest member
Mgough
Top