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RR-Texas

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My 93 just started to stall today, it has tried a few times in reverse, but today I got a little hesitation as I left the light before Starbucks (y'all know where that is right?) went up a couple of blocks and as I turned in it just died! Figured ok at least I can drink coffee, fired right back up and no problems as the rest of the trip is freeway until my exit about 20 miles. However leaving this afternoon was 2-feet driving and it seemed to take longer to stop? It also sounds funny when it is in gear. Just read the replies to the "Stalls in Reverse" so I have things to check after court and a few other errands tomorrow.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo RR,

I guess this is the post you saw?

http://broncozone.com/topic/23507-93-ford-bronco-stalls-when-put-into-reverse/

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

Joe includes a vacuum leak test that is what a Ford tech would do after the self test and shown in this

Diagnostic Routines Index

see, Driveability - Performance While Driving Concerns

Stalls/Quits

Idle 0750

Acceleration

Cruise

Deceleration

It gives clues morseso than actual pin-point tests; these can be done if self test points to a sensor or other device.

 
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RR-Texas

RR-Texas

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Thanks miesk5, I thought it had fixed itself (hey I'm a mechanic by trade it happens) but it was not so I have been printing some of the replies, then I got side tracked on the messed up wiring and all the butt connectors! I have removed 10lbs of crud already! There is some sad stuff been happening do people not know how to solder? Anyway I found a factory Security module, doubt it works, I mean sure it does and I will sell it for a small nominal fee (it's an anniversary model) they are worth more! I guess I should go make sure the truck still starts I may have to plug it back in?

Maybe I will stumble on why she is running bad, noticed fluid at my booster/master cylinder just now, I had to come up to get some wire ties. It may be factory wiring to that module, but I seriously doubt Ford used 800 wire ties?

Oh yeah I have never got an engine light, I don't think it works as I can't recall ever seeing it? Guess I better go check that now too!

 
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RR-Texas

RR-Texas

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What did we learn in Bronco school today little Johnny? You have to have the Ford security module plugged in for the truck to start! I thought that was a lot of wires for an alarm. I did print out BroncoJoe19s instructions on checking for codes, which I will try tomorrow? Still did not notice a check or engine light?

Later Bronco Boys & Girls

 

miesk5

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yo RR,

funny stuff!

Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning

If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that is burnt out, loose in socket, or someone removed it. Wouldn't be the 1st time a previous owner mangled or manipulated somethAng, huh?

==============

re your; "noticed fluid at my booster/master cylinder"

This could be a fire hazard if it is the speed control deactivation switch; it may overheat, smoke, or burn & this condition could lead to a fire. Fires have occurred while the vehicles were parked with the ignition 'off.' as an interim repair, owners will be instructed to return their vehicles to their dealers to have the speed control deactivation switch disconnected. As soon as replacement parts are available (early April 2005), owners will be instructed to return to the dealers for installation of a new switch free of charge. Owners may contact ford at 1-800-392-3673. (note: also see recalls 05v388 and 06v286) Ford recall no. 05s28. Customers may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's vehicle safety hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV

Source: by National Highway Traffic Safety Administration nhtsa.dot.gov

since the recall was issued, Ford has done more work on this issue.

Recall Update; Field Service Action 05S28 Speed Control System Modification Supplement #7 for 93-96 Bronco, 94-02 F-150/250 (Under 8500 GVW), 97- 02 Expedition, 98-02 Navigator, 02 Blackwood

fsa05s28speedcontroldeacsw.jpg see the tie straps?

Is this what you have now?

Recall; Fused Jumper Harness (14A411) pic; "List price on this is ~$11 (as of the date I posted the pic), but it will be installed at NO CHARGE (parts or labor) on vehicles covered by the recall. Even though the label is wrong about the fuse being internal, it should still NEVER be replaced. If it blows, it means the brake pressure switch is leaking, and (as the label states) should be replaced with the new Speed Control Deactivation Switch & adapter harness kit, listing for ~$20 right now..."

cruiserecall2.jpg

Source: by Steve

===========

Here is the Anti-Theft Protection System Service Tips TSB 94-25-05 for 93-94 Bronco, F Series, Explorer, Ranger, Econoline & many others most significant is;

1994 F-SERIES/BRONCO - INADVERTENT ACTIVATION OF THE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM

ISSUE Water intrusion into the Right or Left Front Courtesy Lamp Switch (refer to EVTM) of the Anti-Theft System may cause inadvertent activation of the system.

ACTION To correct this condition you should:

Remove the switch from the door.

Place a small amount of silicone sealant on the back of the connector where the wires exit the connector (enough sealant should be used to seal the connector and prevent further water intrusion).

Tape wrap the connector and about 1.5" (38mm) of the wires beyond the switch connector.

Reinstall the switch.

Verify the repair.

Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM; Click Next for more Source: by Mikey350

 

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