steering box advice?

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got mike?

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i just got a 73 bronco and i'm going through my list of things to fix. it drives okay, but just trying to get the safety basics fixed before i really start playing.

the steering box (power steering) is leaking like a sieve. on top of that, the linkage between the steering wheel and the box is tight, but there is a good deal of play inside the box. i'd say almost 1/4 turn of the wheel, maybe slightly less. i have looked at buying a new steering box, but the ones they have at bronco graveyard are almost $1k. it looks like they are cheaper at tom's bronco parts, closer to $600. i also see tom's has a "rebuild service" for under $400 and bronco graveyard sells the rebuild kits for around $70.

i guess my question is whether or not i should replace the whole thing or rebuild it? has anyone had success (or failure) with either? it seems to me like the rebuilds might fix the seals and bearings but nothing with respect to the play b/c they aren't replacing the gears. and... if i'm going to replace the whole thing, does anyone have a suggestion?

i have 33in bridgestone tires if that matters. i read on one website that if you are running bigger tires, you need to get a non-stock steering box.

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Mike, welcome..!

If you're not going to use your rig for "rock-crushing", then your stock P/S is fine. :D/ (bigger than 36's may req. P/S mods)

I've not re-built one but would like to try.

However., I'd recommend having it done by one of the EB suppliers. Toms, Wild Horses, & I think it's BC Broncos that have good prices & fast turn-a-round times.

If your box is good, (not cracked, etc.) You send it in & in a few days they send it back, ready to go.

You may want to insp/clean. the fluid, pump, & hoses as well.. You don't want to contaminate a fresh P/S box. <_<

 
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got mike?

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Thanks guys! I was just talking the decision over with a buddy. Is it worth trying to adjust first, just to confirm if it's an adjustment issue, before going the rebuild route instead of buying fresh and tight? I talked with a guy who said there is an adjustment on the top of the box, but I haven't tried that yet.

I noticed that Bronco Graveyard has an OEM Gearbox for about $1k with a 90 day warranty or a "Rock Crawler" for $600 with a lifetime warranty. I don't really need the heavy duty thing, but if it's both better AND cheaper, maybe take that route?

And... No, I'm not using it for any rock climbing. I'm in Florida, so we don't really have rocks to climb anyways. Also, if I'm reading it correctly, my inline 6 has about 84 horsepower, so anything more than driving to the beach and back is probably out until I get the basics fixed and take the mammoth leap to repower to a 302, there is very little "action" in my Bronco's immediate future...

 
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Bully Bob

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That's NOT really an adjusting nut...!! :eek: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

It's used as a "pre-set" when assembled new.., or re-built. A wrong move can actually cause binding & damage the box/housing.

"if I'm reading it correctly, my inline 6 has about 84 horsepower"

Don't be fooled by published figures. They're downplayed to appease the Govmt.

I've had five V/8's & one I-6..... You can see which one I kept.

Actually., W/O your sig. filled in., it's un-clear what you have there.. :unsure:

Is that a stock Ford box & shafts, or an add-on..? (seen plenty of those :( /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> )

 
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got mike?

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I added a signature, hope I got the right stuff in there... Also posted some pics in the gallery, not sure if that's the right spot or not...

 

Bully Bob

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KEWL...!

Pics look good...! Good job on the sig., However, fr. that list, you're gonna need a lot of help..!! :eek: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Folks here will be happy to "jump-in" >:D< <'>

That looks to be the stock Ford box.... Does it have 4 (or 3) bolts holding it to the frame.?

Can you get a pic fr. the top down..? FYI it's easy to R&R that box.

 
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bigbluebronc

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I used a toyota box on mine with a good cooler 120 bucks for both. Turned my 38s on the rocks just fine and its junk yard pickin. Yeha

BBB

 

Rons beast

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Thanks for the info BBB. A toyota box? Really? Are they both Saginaw?

I don't want to start a tiff here but GM allows for an adjustment on the box at 1/4 turn at a time and a max of 1 turn for the adjustment period. done with the box preasurized, (eng running). Any more, or too much too fast and you could damage the box.

Ford may have it differently.

 

Bully Bob

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Ron said..

"I don't want to start a tiff here but GM allows for an adjustment....."

No tiff.., we can all agree to disagree... >:D< <'>

If that nut/***** needs moving.., something is "worn"

In addition, who knows if someone, years back, messed with it.

Beings it is a "pre-load" setting *****....using it to remove slop/ware causes a bind at some point...usually in a full turn right/left, or both.

Pretty sure Ford has not published any recommendation to use that ***** as "play removal" as a safety concern.

Even if it's moved...chances are it will need moving again in the near future. :glare:

 

Rons beast

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I don't doubt what you said at all Bob. Ford may not want that thing turned for nothing. My training was primarily in GM products, and they allowed it......so me being me, I used that knowledge to adjust any box with the nut and allen *****. I guess I was lucky in not having damaged a box. I agree that if there is an adjustment needed there was wear. Guess Gm expected it.

As I remember it actually adjusted the "tunnel" that the bearings were running through. Is that correct?

 

Elmo

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I have rebuilt many of these boxes if you must adjust it do so with small adjustments test driving it after each adj. That ***** moves the shaft (that the pitman arm is on)up,which puts more space between the gear teeth on the pitman arm and the gear teeth on the sector assembly, or down which would decress the space between the pitman arm and sector assm. Due to the shape and design of the teeth on the pitman and sector adjusting the slotted ***** down would reduce the play but as already stated if that is needed both sets of gear teeth could be worn. there are a few other parts in the sector assembly that could and probably do have a considerable amt of wear on them. All that said just as clarafication of each pieces function. The stated adjustment will remove a small amt of play but could deffinately result in a binding situation now or somewhere down the road. I adjusted mine to remove some of the play but not all due to not wanting to adjust myself into a tight spot.If you have to adjust it down dont go down far enough that the last thread on the ***** is not visable. past that point is a deffinate indication that something internal is severly worn and needs attention.

 

bigbluebronc

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Thanks for the info BBB. A toyota box? Really? Are they both Saginaw?

I don't want to start a tiff here but GM allows for an adjustment on the box at 1/4 turn at a time and a max of 1 turn for the adjustment period. done with the box preasurized, (eng running). Any more, or too much too fast and you could damage the box.

Ford may have it differently.
I ran a toyota ifs(indepentant front suspension) box out of a toyota 4x4 86 and up with a big cooler(on the bronco) with a signaw pump. I took the cooler out for a trip and spit on it and it bubbled. I went home and reinstalled the cooler and it worked better like a champ. The cooler was a three pass out a mitsubisucki trans cooler. The toyo box is adjustsable and capable of running red neck steering. Its a great box found at the junkers for 50 bills if your lucky you can find a bronco box for 150 and then have it rebuilt?

I am a yota guy know

If you can make the right cheap parts fit I am all about it?!!!

BBB

 
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got mike?

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you asked for a shot of the top of the steering box... here's what it looks like.

IMAG0561.jpg

 

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