SERIOUS VALVE TAP. HELP!

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bryan thomas

New member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
147
Reaction score
1
Location
Maryland
Been a while since I've been on. Lot of stuff has been going on. Mainly all downhill but I'm holding on with both hands. Aside from that here we go....

Recap...

This past july I had the rest of my factory exhaust rust off. So I sawzalled it all off behind the second cat. NO mufflers just dual cats with a 90 degree turn down pipe to keep the exhuast pointed down when it comes out from behind second cat. Liked it so much I just have kept it a "jigged up cat back exhaust" since then.

The problem....

I developed a valve tap recently and I have used some CRC valve cleaner that you add to your oil as recommended by the family mechanic. However he doesn't want to get into fixing my Bronco. It has been the 100 plus mile cycle that was recommended as well on the CRC bottle. I'm changing my oil this weekend as it also stated to do. Should I use just regular 30 weight as suggested or keep the 10w30 Castrol High Mileage I've always used since I've bought her? I'm at 165,000 on a original engine and new trans (95 fullsize 5.0 engine, no mods). A friend who "tinkers" on vehicles stated, "because of the exhaust being removed and just having cats and a down pipe probably led to the valve tap becoming more likely." Is this really a true possibility? I wouldn't think so being I just "technically" shortnened my factory exhaust and turned it into a "homemade cat-back system". I've been told the valves can be adjusted to stop making the tap noise. However the top of the engine has to be taken apart and can be a pricey fix. No real price quote has been issued.

So what should I do? I'm driving my other truck until then but as we all know, nothing beats the old Bronc! I'm in a bind so any help with a direction to go would be extremely helpful. Also if you can give a ballpark estimated idea at what I'm looking at in price that would be great too.

Thanks again guys! It's nice to be back on here looking at everyones' Bronc's, it's been to long. :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
OP
OP
B

bryan thomas

New member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
147
Reaction score
1
Location
Maryland
Moderators, I am sorry I probably should have moved this over to the technical forum. Do so as needed. See I really have been away to long to forget about posting in the correct forums.

Thanks again.

Bryan

 
OP
OP
B

bryan thomas

New member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
147
Reaction score
1
Location
Maryland
My father used regular 30 weight in his old 81 ford and he said it would help better since I'm inching closer to 200k miles. As it was recommended to him by his old mechanic.

So the next step up would be the 20W series. And the temperature range is outside air temp correct? It usually gets low teens to low fourties here during this time of the year when I change my oil. So judging by the chart the 20w series wouldn't be appropriate correct?

I agree that lack of full exhaust shouldn't have been a problem whether or not it was 6" of pipe or 6' of pipe. That statement just seemed really stupid when I was told that.

What is a HLA, high lifter arm possibly?

So now finally what would you suggest as a start to begin fixing my Bronc? Any areas of trouble shooting I should investigate post oil change that I plan on doing tomorrow?

 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
22,667
Messages
136,906
Members
25,368
Latest member
digs
Top