Selling my bronco :(

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barrett86

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well ive decided to upgrade to a 98 F-150, well mayyybbbeeeeee im lookin at a nice one its dark green with the 5.4l triton, ext. cab. 4x4, auto hubs, can i convert this year to mabual hubs. and anyone know site for cheap lift kits.

 

Jersey

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well ive decided to upgrade to a 98 F-150, well mayyybbbeeeeee im lookin at a nice one its dark green with the 5.4l triton, ext. cab. 4x4, auto hubs, can i convert this year to mabual hubs. and anyone know site for cheap lift kits.
Hate to break it to you, but if a 98 150 is set up the same as my 2002, there are no hubs. Just a CV shaft to each wheel, 4WD locking in the front diff.

 
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barrett86

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:( /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> waaaaaa, well i test drove it, it has a bad o2 sensor which is making it run LEANNN, would a bad o2 sensor change the idle. well the truck is nice guys, a huge step up from my bronco,it has the 5.4L Triton WOOO FRICKIN HOOO, stick shift for the 4x4 its not push button, woohoo again, Toyo All terrains (needs replacing) mileage is 132975 which i put like 20 on it test driving her, she gets up and goes but other thing is i think the idle was messed with cuz she will stay around 35 if i dont hit the brakes, now is the idle adjustable like on our broncos by just turning a ***** or is it computer controlled, and any ideas on what i need to look for on these motors, tranny etc, im familiar with old skool like 302's 351's and BRONCO"S and F-150's 80-96, nothing newer lol. i liked it, i want it, and the guy wants 5895 $ for it which the Wholesale is 6700 and the Retail is 11,000. so i think its good, and it has a clean carfax report that he ran tongiht and gave me.
 

racebreedbronco

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suspect the o2 sensor is ok, just indicating lean, is it switching at 2000 rpm? did you check for vacuum leaks?? check the pcv tube where it goes into the back of the intake, bet it has a rotted hole in it!!

 
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barrett86

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what do you mean is it switching at 2000 rpm, like switching gears, and i didnt check for leaks i was just test driving it, and would a bad o2 sensor make the idle funky. and why if i was cruising would it stay at 35 if i let off the gas, and it would just stay there unless i hit the brakes.

 
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bidibronco

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VACCUME LEAK! Caution! I bad leak in the intake manifold will cause the engine to idle WAY high! Carfax baby... I'd invest in that before I gave it another look but that's just me..

 
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barrett86

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Carfax was ran last night and it came back good.the idle is fine , its hard to explain, it idles at around 800 and its just after romping it it well continue at around 35 if i let off the gas. ill take a look at the PCV valve, on the 5.4 where is it located.

 

Jersey

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Carfax was ran last night and it came back good.the idle is fine , its hard to explain, it idles at around 800 and its just after romping it it well continue at around 35 if i let off the gas. ill take a look at the PCV valve, on the 5.4 where is it located.
Only downfall to carfax is it only shows what the body shops report. I dont know about in other areas, but up here it is not required to do so and most of them dont.

 

bidibronco

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Insurance companies have to and that's what I was aiming for with it. If it's been claimed on insurance then that's where to look. I didn't know about the shop thing. Good info though!

 

Broncobill78

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CarFax is an *extremely* limited tool (but SSSShhhhh, they don't want anyone to know that). All it tells you is if it's ever been totaled, hit hard & rebuilt, or if was a former taxi, cruiser or was submerged. The current owner can neglect the ever-living-$hit out of it, beat it senseless trail-riding on weekends and then use it to deliver pizza for Domino's 8 days a week and *none* of that shows up on CarFax. After Katrina there was such a flood (pardon my pun) of rebuilt flood vehicles that the company went on a huge marketing splurge and it's paid off for them. I'm *still* waiting to hear from the person who can explain to me just HOW a clean CarFax report can or will guarantee them a solid vehicle. To the best of MY knowledge there's no CarFax fairy out there reimbursing guys who got hosed on a bad truck that CarFax said was cool.

From what you've described I'd say the F-truck needs to be looked at much more closely, you're just trading one set of problems for another. Add to that the fact that you don't really have a good handle on how to fix your existing Bronco but you want to swap up to something that you'll need a freaking oscilliscope to repair ? It's an *entirely* different animal and I'd either come to grips with the fact that you're going to chain yourself to dealership/mechanic OR you need to start looking into local technical schools w/auto programs. This is NOT a truck you're going to learn how to fix quickly.

 
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barrett86

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tru tru, i know whats wrong with the bronco, i have one bad ball joint and my inner and outer wheel bearings on my passanger side are shot, but i doubt my bearings are shot, the guy's at the shop barely looked under the truck they took a look at my ball joints, but hey ive done bearings before so ill replace those. the guy tried to tell me the reason my tires are pigeon toed is because the bearings are shot, i doubt that cuz thats caused by bad ball joints, bad alignment, over-tightened tie-rods, correct me if im wrong.

 

Broncobill78

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It really doesn't matter, bearings cost what $15 ? You'll have access to them when you do the rest of what it needs so just replace them while you've got it apart.

 
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barrett86

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well monday tuesday and at the latest wednesday ill be an owner of an 86 Bronco and a 98 F-150.selling the bronco anyone wanna buy it.second, it does matter, cuz the beast is eating tires cuz something is pulling them in, and was i right or wrong when i said correct me. read last statement

 
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