Replacing the Fuel pump

[billmcg]

I agree with Seabronc, I recently had my tank pump go on mine. By measuring and marking I used a dremel with thin cutting wheels to put an access hole in my bed rather than pull the whole tank. I cut a small layer at a time to insure after I did go through there would be little or no spark (I cut at medium speed). I just used some strap galvanized 1 1/4" wide steel to make panel catch.

 

[Ted]

I know this post is a little out of date but i have been reading through it because i am dropping the tank on my 86 bronco for some cleanup and parts replacement, but as I was reading through I remembered a problem that I was confronted with on my 92 ford f150 351w it would spit and sputter when i put the gas to it but when i gradually increased the throttle it didnt turned out to be the shift position sensor just thought i would add this as a possible fix in this forum

 

[ctryboysurvivor]

ok i really hope this helps any of ur prob. before removin pump insure it works , make a jumpers lead from batt to pump on frame . this is more like a bench test . if it works a relay is bad , or poor wiring connections . also if u have already replaced this pump and can not get fuel, or not enough fuel to eng , check ur filter or filters . also check all hose fittings to insure proper seal. u can also pull the line on the hi pressure side put a finger over end of pump ,have someone turn truck on . please be carefull can make a mess . there should be alot of pressure u may or may not be able to hold the pressure back , if no pressure remove finger and replace repeatably . if still none check ur sending unit for function u can apply most of the ideas ive posted for that , but also check to see if pickup tube on sending unit is attached and sealed well.oh yeh change ur gas cap .be sure to bleed sys .could also be bad soft line hoses they could be collapsing or kinking . hope this was helpful for anyone out there and good luck.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

They're ~3/8" {10mm} cross-section; the bolt heads are 13mm; nuts are 15mm; but you can use whatever nuts & bolts - there's nothing special about them, other than the RED threadlocker Ford put on them.

Consider this instead of dropping the tank:

Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at http://broncozone.com/topic/12329-gas-sender-unit-access-panel/

Cut out an access panel from a yard queen Bronco or f series or buy one from our Sponsor,

Rear Bed Patch Panel 48 x 16 New 1980-96 Ford Bronco

1980-96 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350

$35.00

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Bronco-92-96/products/1163/

 

[miesk5]

My pump just died. Power on and no whine from the rear. Any idea what size the bolts/nuts are for the strats/skidplate/tank are? Mine are RUSTY and I know a few will break, I'd rather replace them all at the time.

Yo Burns,They're ~3/8" {10mm} cross-section; the bolt heads are 13mm; nuts are 15mm; but you can use whatever nuts & bolts - there's nothing special about them, other than the RED threadlocker Ford put on them.

But an easier way to get at the pump is to cut an access section in the cargo floor.

 

[entity-unknown]

Here's my fuel pump hatch I installed in the rear after having to drop my gas tank 12 times for a fuel vapor leak with emissions /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> It ended up being a lil pebble stuck below the o-ring gasket for the lock ring fuel pump retainer that caused the failed pressure test.... P.S. I've used it once since I added it but at least it was once /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />