Rear DriveShaft CV Joint(H-Yoke)

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BuckWild79

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I snapped the h yoke on the rear drive shaft recentley which is stock and needs to be replaced or lenghtened anyway. I was wondering weather to put the h yoke back in or just leave it out. My bronco is currentley on about 6inchs of suspension and 3ichs of body lift. I use this truck offroading and on road very little I have antique tags therefore I dont have to worry about inspection. Also is there anyway to eliminate the h yoke wihout having to put a different rear output shaft (3 7/8) in the transfer case. I know the driveshaft will need to be modified.DRSCVCOLLAR_THUMB.jpg

 

Justshootme84

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You want to have the Double-Cardan (DC) style driveshaft since the Bronco has such a short wheelbase. Even with a 6" susp lift, you should still be within the range of the DC joint on a lengthened driveshaft. There are a few companies that sell a high-angle driveshaft, with more degrees of motion than your stock D joint. The only ones I've seen of those use a ****** mount to the t-case instead of the fixed yoke. If you use the rig for offroad only or don't get up to highway speeds, you might consider building or having made a square tubing driveshaft. I made mine from receiver hitch tubing, and have a thread on how I made them. I still used the DC joint for the rear shaft. JSM84

 
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BuckWild79

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I also intend on changing the lift in the near future to 0 body 12 suspension. Will I be able to run the same shaft just with some extension.

 

Justshootme84

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Here's the link to my Supermotors album:

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1133/30189-4

It has some general driveshaft overhaul along with the square ds build. I can't post the link from the build thread in the 80-96 tech support forum, but if you search the words "square tubing" it will come up on the list. (Must use the " marks for search to work). The post was started on 11/5/2008, and als ohas some other links that i used as reference.

With anything over a 6" susp lift on the 78/79 Broncos, you do need to extend both driveshafts. However, with 12" you will likely exceed the range of motion of the stock DC joint ans well as the front u-joints. For that amount of lift iwould suggest an extreme high-angle driveshaft. I don't know if even the newer Cornay type joint will work, JSM84

http://www.cornay.com/

This is a great tech article from HighAngleDriveline that's posted on Pirate4x4:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/

 
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muddrivermike

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Hey JSM I just wanted to know if you had any vibration from that square shaft.Ive only seen people build them for off road trucks,Just wanted to know how it is at high speeds.I just modified my 9 inch suspension and now made it a 4 inches more.So now I have 13 inches of suspension lift on the truck.The rear shaft already was made for the 9 inch lift but now I can see an inch of the splines on both driveshafts,AS for the d-joint Ive been driving it in 2wd and 4wd for about 2 weeks now and havent had any issues.I guess they can flex pretty good.But I am planning to have new driveshafts made anyway so I dont break splines or seperate the driveshafts when I go wheeling.

 

Justshootme84

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I can't answer that ? yet, as I've not driven even close to 50 mph in the rig. I can tell you that there is very little play in the two sections of tubing with 12-14" of overlap. I added a shim under the front leaf springs to eliminate the binding in the front driveshaft u-joint at the t-case. I did not use a DC-joint in the front shaft since the front D60 axle pinion yoke is not pointing directly at the t-case like it is for the rear axle. But if I add the 4" lift springs to the front I will most likely need one due to the amount of drop and angle at the t-case. JSM84

 
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muddrivermike

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Thanks I was wondering about that little play between the tubes,I also am planning to put a 60 in the front eventually.Which should collapse my front shaft getting me out of having one made.But the rear one obviously will have to be replaced.Buut thanks for the info JSM,, talk to you later. >

 

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