yo, I agree with Mike; also, without the Tone Ring in the Dana 60 & the ABS Sensor "****"; the PSOM, ABS, EEC inputs for tranny etc and Cruise Control; as well as an overhead console's stuff won't operate correctly at not at all
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10.25 inch;
Installation info & pics in a 95
Source: by jam0o0 at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/9014/34102
pics & info from a 93 F350 in a 95
Source: by wmcelwee at
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160476
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Dana 60;
Read this by Shadofax; Installation, rear w/VSS in a 95
Source: by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z) at
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=628&s=23277#content
"...I’m entering into an SAS front, and part of the project is a change in the rear axle. To keep it simple though, I’m not discussing the front at this point, only what I’ve installed in the rear, some of the why’s and some of the details I’ve collected. Hope it’s helpful to some. Thanks go to Nick M, and Kevin R and fam for the assistance!
I’ll be detailing specifics measurements on my 60, but remember that Squatty D’s Rear Axle Guide sticky is also available in the SAS forum, and gives you a simple breakdown of most rear axle options. Also, keep in mind there are MANY flavors of
D60 rear:
Semi-float, full-float, 16/30/35 spline, even offset dana 61’s.
My axle is BOM 603716 18. Online, I can’t find it. A trip to Six States however, and a call to spicer, yielded the proper book, and whoala! A 1977.5-78 F250 2WD FF/30 SPL. For the later 70’s, early 80’s, this is probably the common axle
Why would one want a 60FF vs. a 10.25 or some other bigger fullfloater? Well, 1st off the VSS sensor can be adapted, which I will show in a sec. 2nd, if one is wanting to upgrade an 8.8 or 9”, but is still using a D44 solid front, then a 60 makes a better fit, less weight, greater clearance, and still pretty strong. A 44 front tends to limit your max tire size, so a 10.25 is really overkill for the rear when a 60 can handle 38’s. There is a place for the 60 as a 3/4T FF or the entry level 1 ton. Parts are readily available at a junkyard, or spicer, and are competitive when looking at other axles (14 bolt being cheaper for most stuff, 10.25 being a bit more).
The 60 center of axle tube to low point on housing after grind 6”. My 8.8 after grind, just under 6”, so practically the same. My guess is the 10.25 is about 6.75”.
The 60 uses 6 hot weld plugs per side, with 3/8” axle tube thickness, where the 8.8 uses 3 plugs, and 3/16” (.188 wall).
The 60 spindles are very thick, and all bearings are nice and large. The axleshafts are also the same length, so 1 shaft will work for either side.
The WMS to WMS on the 8.8 is 65”. The 60 with Discs is 66”. This turned out PERFECT because the only non-custom steel wheel I could find in 15”x 8” (8x6.5 lug) had 4.25”BS, and my current 5x5.5 15x8’s are 3.75” (they stick out ½” more per side, but the added width of the 60 makes up all of it).
So, if one has a hankering to try something different, then here’s some food for thought:
There is a notch in the Detroit carrier to the left of the 4.56 ring gear. That be for toner:
Toner and Sensor, hopefully the part #’s are visible;
fabbed up shock mount with no hang below axle tube:
Toner pressed on Detroit. I had to remove ring gear for this:
the hard part. I drilled a 13/16” hole (.8125”) in the top of the diff to mount the sensor, which is .81 body, but .825 with o ring. I used fabbed up washers/grinder to get the sensor apx. 1mm (yes, 1mm!) from the toner ring. The spec for allowable margin here appears to be .005 to .050 in. (about 1.12mm max).
JB weld and small 5/16 bolt drilled and tapped to hold it in exact position:
Here you can see it all painted, nice view of 3/8” thick disc brake holding plates, redone spring perch to make them flat again (they were kinda rounded from the years), and the sensor up top. The plates hold chevy 3/4T single piston calipers/semi-metallic pads, that fit barely inside a 15” wheel with stock offset. I did not do this piece, but the plate is very straightforward and should be easy to copy via template. The other advantage here is that I will use the same calipers/pads up front (in another thread on front SAS using chebby stuff):
I used ORD’s Zero Rate leaf/block to move the axle back 1” and add 1” height. This was PERFECT for allowing the room for 37’s with no fender trim, and for allowing use of driveshaft with no mods. I changed from the stock ****** at the pinion to ubolt style, as the 60 came ready to accept a 1330 series U joint (stock on my 1995). I measured my d-shaft before and after, from center of closest DC ujoint cap to center of pinion end ujiont cap. Both were 23 3/8”:
I also fabbed up 3/8” upper u bolts plates with ¼” thick risers, and 1” offset for center pin due to ORD Zeros:
End of story. I’ve been driving, and me likely. Must have been having a problem with my ****** at pinion end because my shift to reverse no longer slams (I put a new U joint in, but the old one was in great shape). The 4.56’s vs. 4.10’s don’t make much difference (it is noticeable for sure), but I hold final judgement there until I do the PSOM correction. No ABS sensor light coming on, and the E4OD shifts as it should given it’s getting an incorrect signal at this point….108 8.8 tooth count vs 120 for D60/10.25. It drives just like the 8.8 was still in it.
Issues…soft pedal from several brake line leaks I am working to resolve. No e brake, and the sensor up top has a slight leak of gear oil, I’m guessing it’s pushing up through the hold down bolt. It’s right above the ring gear, but this is one thing I was not anticipating. Didn’t think oil fling would be an issue, and I do have this very well sealed…it was meant to keep water out. Guess I need a bit more work here.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/628
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Installation, rear in a 91
Source: by Eric L (The Rig) at
http://www.supermotors.org/clubs/superford/erlong/progressive/051999/rearend/index.html
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Dana 60 -> VSS Addition (also called called RABS)
Applications, Bronco: "...Pre 85 used a cable-mounted VSS (6 pulses per cable rev) for cruise only; 85-91 used a t-case mounted VSS (6 pulses per cable rev) for cruise and E4OD shifting. The ABS sensor was only used for RABS. The ESOF t-case always had its own dedicated speed sensor in the tailhousing - Miesk5 Note Ford Part Number is 7f293 speed sensor;; 92-96 use the ABS sensor (108 pulses per diff rev) in the rear axle (via the ABS module) to feed the PSOM, which then feeds everything else..."
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86948&page=2
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck
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Installation in a Dana 60 in a 93
Source: by 2bitbronco (nobs) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/1333/13944
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Installation in a Dana 60 in a 96
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/7660/33746
Source: by Dave's Bronc 90 (Dave B) for Johnski (The Short Bus)
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Superlift® TruSpeed™ Speed Sensor Recalibrator Overview & Installation Instructions in 92-96
Source: by Superlift®
http://www.superlift.com/accessories/truspeed.asp
r get the plug that matches the 1 ton sensor and splice it into your wires.The only thing you will have to compare is how many teeth are on your diff compared to the new one.I dont know if that will affect anything or not.Like ABS codes.I dont think it should though.Hopefully some one here has done this or has some more input.
