yo K
This for the 96 from Workshop Manual
No Sound from All Radio Speakers
Circuitry.
Radio chassis.
Radio amplifier.
Radio speakers
Ford tends to suggest replacing speakers, radio ec w/a known good unit, such as; "...Substitute a known good radio amplifier (Premium system only)..."
so we can forget the pin-point tests and go to;
L4 CHECK CONNECTIONS AND WIRING
Check Radio connector (pull Radio)
Removal & Installation in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/33556
Connector Location, Behind Instrument Panel Diagram in a 96, Page 1
Source: by Ford via Chilton @
http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/WD/Ford/172/WD_Ford_172137.pdf
Check for shorts between radio speaker connector.
Check radio chassis and ( if equipped) radio amplifier, wiring harness for damage and shorts.
With digital volt-ohmmeter, verify power from radio chassis connector C1 Circuit 137 (Y/BK) to ground with key to RUN or ACCESSORY
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CHECK ANTENNA CABLE CONNECTIONSVerify condition by operating radio chassis while engine is running, with vehicle in, or not in, motion.
Check antenna connections including extension cable (if equipped).
Are connections clean and secure?
Check to make sure antenna is securely mounted to body at ground points.
Check for presence of all required suppression equipment, radio frequency interference suppression bond and radio receiver hood bonding strap (if equipped) for security, cleanliness and metal-to-metal connection.
Check if noise can be eliminated by repositioning antenna, radio speaker or radio power feed wires away from other wires and/or brackets.
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note; Ford still refers to alternator as a generator
Check the mounting and connecting wires of the generator's radio voltage regulator capacitor (if equipped) and radio ignition interference capacitor for secureness, cleanliness and metal-to-metal contact. AT COIL, on Driver's side of intake manifold
Missing or Poor Grounds
Check bond strap grounding effectiveness by wedging a large file between metal parts to ensure proper ground, such as between the tail pipe and body, or between the fender and frame, while the radio chassis is playing and the engine is running. Listen for a decrease in the objectionable radio noise. If a reduction in radio noise is noted, first try tightening body and exhaust system clamps and brackets. Then, if necessary, install a new bond strap between the two metal parts to ensure proper ground.
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Sound distortion can be attributed to any of three components: the radio amplifier (18B849), the radio chassis, or the radio amplifier wiring (19B113) that connects the radio amplifier to the radio chassis. If any of these components is damaged, sound quality will be distorted. The speakers will also cause distortion if any of them are grounded (CDR only).
The vehicle ignition system is a source of radio interference. This high-voltage switching system produces a radio frequency electromagnetic field that radiates at AM, FM and CB frequencies. Although components have been designed into the vehicle to minimize this concern, the noise is more noticeable if the radio is tuned slightly off channel for FM programs. Vehicle electrical accessories and owner add-on accessories may also contribute to radio interference. Furthermore, there are many noise sources that are external to the vehicle. These include power lines, communication systems, ignition systems of other vehicles, neon signs, etc.
Favoring the rear radio speaker in noisy areas will help to reduce noise
The antenna mast in the F-150-250-350, F-Super Duty, and Bronco is detachable.
Removal
1. Disconnect the antenna lead-in cable from the radio.
2. Remove the cable from the retaining clips along the bottom of the instrument panel.
3. Remove the antenna mast from the antenna base.
4. Using an appropriate tool, unsnap the cap from the antenna base and remove the cap. CAUTION: Use appropriate fender protection so you do not damage paint when removing the base.
5. Remove four antenna base attaching screws and remove the antenna base and gasket. NOTE: The antenna lead-in cable can now be disconnected from the antenna base.
6. Disengage the cable from the retainer at the top of the heater plenum, and remove cable from vehicle for testing or replacement. NOTE: It will be necessary to remove the glove compartment to gain access to the antenna lead-in cable.
Installation
1. Insert the antenna lead-in cable from the passenger compartment into the antenna hole in the cowl.
2. From outside of the vehicle, pull the cable through the hole in the cowl until the grommet on the cable is properly seated.
3. Attach the cable to the base and gasket assembly through the hole on the cowl top extension. Seat the assembly on the hole pattern.
4. Install the four antenna base attaching screws.
5. Place the cap in position over the antenna base and snap the cap onto the base.
6. Install the antenna mast to the antenna base.
7. Route the antenna lead-in cable to the retainers on the bottom of the instrument panel.
8. Connect the antenna lead-in cable to the radio and check the operation of the engine and radio.
9. Install the glove compartment.
Poor Reception
- If AM reception is extremely poor and FM reception "spits" or appears to have trouble holding stations, make sure the antenna and antenna connectors are properly mated. If the antenna connectors are properly mated but the reception is still poor, refer to Antenna Tests 1 through 3.
- If only FM reception is poor, it is unlikely that the antenna is at fault. Remove the radio chassis for service.
