Power Adders?

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Red95gotpotential

Red95GotPotential
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Talkin' two kinds of power here, first I have a very powerful stereo set-up in my truck and when the bass hits the voltage drops dramatically, the most I have seen so far about 2-4 volts. It dims my headlights and drops the idle a bit. This problem also occurs (stereo off) if im running a lot of the electrics in the truck. (Rear window defrosters, heater, lights, and wipers) It drops really bad at idle but even when highway cruising at one contant speed the volts drop a little. Any ideas on how to fix this problem? My battery is fair and alternator is good.

Also I have been looking for ways to increase horsepower/torque. I have a CAI and cat-back. I don't want to run headers because of my location in Jersey. All they will do is cause me problems. Any tips for good ways to increase power for under $300? I'm looking for the best "bang for my buck" for cheap, I'm not looking for serious power, I just want it to have a little more pick-up. Also any word about shift kits? It's ridiculous how the motor will rev to about 5300 while in park or neutral, but it will shift around 4000-4300 depending on what gear at WOT. -_- /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Also it's not a big issue but my tranny doesn't know what it's doing sometimes, it misses a shift or downshifts/upshifts for no reason sometimes. Any clue how to improve upon that without switching the transmission or doing some serious rebuilding? It's not slipping it just seems confused at times. :huh:

My truck information is, 1995 XLT 302c.i. E04D tranny, other then CAI and Catback, she's mostly stock.

Thanks a lot for any help!

 

BroncoJoe19

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Also it's not a big issue but my tranny doesn't know what it's doing sometimes, it misses a shift or downshifts/upshifts for no reason sometimes. Any clue how to improve upon that without switching the transmission or doing some serious rebuilding? It's not slipping it just seems confused at times.

I had a simimlar problem and resolved it with a little help from my friends here.

Pull codes for your engine.

Most important seensors for the engine/trans regarding shifitng is the VSS, and TPS, followed by MAP.

Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.

Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.

The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.

Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.

Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.

Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.

SO here you go...

How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

Howto Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more

 

Seabronc

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Your system was not designed to handle the loads of high powered stereo systems. When you add something like that and / or a bunch of off road lights, you need to also upgrade your alternator. Since you have a 95 Bronco, you already have the 3G alternator system in it so you simply need to upgrade the size of the alternator. Your current alternator is either a 95 or 130 amp system, a 95 would definitely need upgrading. When adding a lot of high powered equipment minimum is 130 and probably in your case an alternator rated with a maximum output of 200 or 250 probably wouldn't hurt along with increasing the cable size from the alternator to battery to 2 AWG would be recommended, and ditto for the battery to frame / engine block ground.

Along with that move the voltage sense line to where the main distribution of power is, (in your case it will be at the input lug on the under hood fuse box. The voltage sense line is the yellow with white stripe wire coming out of the alternator plug. That line is usually wrapped from the plug to the charge lug on the alternator. The move is only a couple of feet, but it makes a big difference in the alternators ability to react to load changes.

In addition to that, I would recommend that you do the headlight harness upgrade. It is available from LMC Truck http://www.lmctruck.com or you can build it your self. The advantage of one like LMC Truck offers is that it is a plug and play and only takes about 30 minutes to completely install, (everything in it's place neatly *******).

As an example, the attached picture is of a 130 amp 3G. You can tell the difference between a 95 and 130 by the number of holes between the ribs. If you note, there are 2 holes between the ribs of this one. A 95 amp 3G has 4 holes there.

Good luck,

:)>-

100_3364.jpg

 
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BB33's

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Try adding a performance chip. They don't add major power but overall power through the gears is good. Throttle response increases too. Since you got a '95 try getting a tuner. They can modify the power and shift points of the trans so it might solve both your problems. Most go for around 259 dollars.

 

gatorbronco

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Talkin' two kinds of power here, first I have a very powerful stereo set-up in my truck and when the bass hits the voltage drops dramatically, the most I have seen so far about 2-4 volts. It dims my headlights and drops the idle a bit.
Do you have a capacitor? This would definitely help reduce the load while you're playing your radio.

 

BB33's

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All a capacitor is is a battery that is installed inline with your system. It stores 14.6 volts of battery juice so that when your system hits a hard note or requires a large draw it takes it from the capacitor and doesn't sap at your battery, thus meaning the lights don't dim and volts don't drop.

 

gatorbronco

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All a capacitor is is a battery that is installed inline with your system. It stores 14.6 volts of battery juice so that when your system hits a hard note or requires a large draw it takes it from the capacitor and doesn't sap at your battery, thus meaning the lights don't dim and volts don't drop.
Exactly the reason I suggested it. It seems like the main problem he's having is that his sound system is drawing too much amperage thus causing the rest of the electrical system to suffer. The other voltage drops he's noticing should be fixable with Seabronc's suggestions.

 
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Red95gotpotential

Red95gotpotential

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Thanks a lot guys for all the help I'm going to do the suggested alternator upgrade because i am also adding more exterior lighting after the winter, as well as get a capacitor. I have never ran a capacitor before is it just simple ground and power wiring?

 

gatorbronco

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The wiring is pretty simple, you simply connect it in-line with the +12Volt of the amp and ground it well. It should be as close to the amp as possible too. You also need to charge it before you connect it to the +12V with a resistor (should come with the capacitor). Basically you connect the resistor in-line between your battery and the capacitor. Use a voltmeter across the capacitor and when it reaches 12V, you can replace the resistor with the fuse. Sound easy enough??

 

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