Powe window motor

[B-Cack]

So I am finally getting serious about fixing the passenger side window... she rolls down just fine... but needs "hand assist" to get back up. I am thinking that the gears might be stripped.... and for 15bucks from the graveyard I think it is worth a shot. Now, here is my question, I know it is a pain in the ass to get the motor off the door, but once I do that, is it even worth trying to replace the gear, or should I just spend the 50 clams and get the whole new motor? I am wondering if it is a big deal to replace the gears.... here are the possible parts I am looking at http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/20/189/34349

http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/20/189/34348

Any and all advice is truly welcome by this junior shade tree mechanic.........By the way, I have a 93 XLT

 

[Seabronc]

I have a hard time just buying parts to shotgun a problem, you can waste a lot of money that way. However, if you have to, buy the least expensive part. Myself, I prefer to do a little trouble shooting to find the exact cause of the problem.

You could just have a tired motor or a bind, lowering the window is easier than raising it sice you have gravity working for you going down and against you going up.

I would try jumpering the motor direct by disconnecting the plug and putting 12V directly on the pins to the motor, swapping the leads will change the direction of the motor. So if it is up and nothing happens, swap the leads and it should go down. Then swap the leads and see how well it works. If jumpering it direct still exhibits the same symptom, then:

First check for a bind in the track. A worn regulator mechanism often causes the window to bind when going up. It causes the window to shift and try to go up at an angle insted of strait.

Second remove the motor and check the condition of the gear. If it looks good, then you probably have a tired motor.

However, if the motor works just fine when jumpering it then you have a wiring problem.

The problem could be theground path which originates on the driver side. It goes thru two flex points where the wires transition from the door to the body. Wires in those areas tend to break but they don't break all at once, they go strand by strand which gives a high resistance path for current to flow thru and causes the motor to be sluggish and first noticable in the up direction.

One assumption I have made here is that you have the same symptom from either door control. If not, then the +12V path is suspect. 12V comes thru two different paths, one for the driver side control and one for the passenger side control. The flexing wire problem is the same in that the wire breaks strand by strand.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Rockliner]

Great Info Seabronc - I too have the same problem B-Cack is having and was getting prepared to troubleshoot.

Thanks

 

[B-Cack]

Yeah, I hate to shotgun too, but I am pretty sure it is the gear. When I try to roll it up, it makes a groaning sound, lifts up about half-way, and then gets to a certain point where it stops, goes up 1/8th of an inch, then falls, and groans some more and up 1/8th and falls........ kind of makes me think some of the teeth are stripped. I just wonder how much of a pain it will be to take the motor off and replace the gear? Like everyone I work a lot of hours and really am on a tight schedule... so I am apprehensive to start something that will take 3 weeks to finish... anyways, I am just rambling now and I have to get to a bottle of Captain Morgan I earned last week. OUT

 

[Seabronc]

Ok, if you are sure it's the gear, then that is all I would buy up front. The proceedure on my truck is as follows, and should be the same for most years.

Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2. Remove door trim panel.

3. Disconnect power window motor wire from wire harness connector.

4. Check inside the door to make sure that the electrical wires are not in line with holes to be drilled in the door inner panel. Using a 1/2 inch diameter drill bit drill two holes in the door inner panel at the drill dimples located opposite the two unexposed motor retainer screws.

5. Remove the three motor mount retainer screws using the two drilled holes and existing large hole access to ***** heads.

6. Push the motor toward the outside sheet metal to disengage the motor and drive from the regulator gear. After the motor and drive are disengaged prop the window to full UP position.

7. Remove the motor and drive from inside the door.

Installation

1. Install new motor and drive assembly and tighten retaining screws to 85 in. lb.

2. Reconnect the power window motor wiring and battery ground cable.

3. Remove glass prop and check window operation.

4. cover the drilled holes with two pieces of body tape 1" square, I use metalized duct tape for this :-" .

Good luck,

>-

 

[chr_edw]

There is a guy on E-bay that sells the motor for $25.00

For only 10.00 more than jbg I would go for the new motor.

$-) just mt two cents