OBD Codes 13 and 18 are Tough

[N2TekAndrew]

Help! Just purchased a 'Project' from a lady who said it was not passing Smog. (CA) After cleaning up several Major oil leaks and drips, I started in on the codes. Immediatly realized my Obd2 reader would not work and got a Ford ODB 1 Reader. Fixed the error 33 by replacing several vacume hozes and finally the EGR. I think I have checked all the remaining Vac lines now and tested with a Vac guage. So far it looks good. No errors in Continuious memory or non run-time. YeeHa Finally!

Now I am getting 2 runtime codes now, which I can't seem to shake.

First one is a 13:

"13 ®: PCM could not lower idle speed below normal idle during KOER low rpm idle check. Suspect Idle Bypass valve problems."

IAC/BPA-ISC valve looks new. Removed anyway and cleaned inner and manifold sides. Checked voltage to valve was over 10.5v closer to 12. Checked resistance of valve and it was in the range between 7 and 13 Ohms.(like 8) Seal looks new reattached and tightned to specs. After clearing codes still throws run-time error code 13. WHAT AM I MISSING HERE???

Next code is an 18:

"18 ®: Loss of TACH signal from TFI (Thick Film Integration- the module on the side of the distributor) module to the PCM. There is an open in the SPOUT circuit. Suspect SPOUT connector. "

I have removed the SPOUT 'dongle' which makes a short right close to the PCM/PIM module at the distributor, cleaned contacts and verified the shunt is truely a short. Perfect. Did the Pin trick in the SPOUT output from pin 5 of the ICM at the distributor connector and it reads 2.8->2.9ish VAC at initial startup then drops to 2.1->2.3 vAC at idle, but climes to 4.5 -> 6VAC if I rev the engine. This tells me the PCM is not a fault and is sending the delta at higher speeds. So I am starting to think the ICM is bad?? I hesitate to start ripping into the wiring loom but according to this article (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/470468_1) it may be a short..."A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire." Anyway to test this to be sure before ripping it apart?? Continuity test?

Any help on these two would be great.

BTW After hours of looking on the site and in my Haynes manual I cannot find the dang PCM...only what I gather is the PCM connector going in at the driver side under the dash. I am going here next. If I knew for sure this was it I could double check the PCM output to the ICM. (AKA eliminate or confirm the possibility of a short??)

Since I solved the other codes, primary being the 33 and the EGR, I'd like it to be clean before spending a non refundable $60$ on a SMOG test. Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Doesn't the Haynes manual give a test proceedure for the TFI ignition module?

If not, a parts store may be able to test it for you.

Could it be that the TFI is the cause of both codes?

IF the PCM is sending the signal to the TFI to ****** the timing, and it is not listening wouldn't that give a higher idle?

 

[N2TekAndrew]

Doesn't the Haynes manual give a test proceedure for the TFI ignition module?If not, a parts store may be able to test it for you.

Could it be that the TFI is the cause of both codes?

IF the PCM is sending the signal to the TFI to ****** the timing, and it is not listening wouldn't that give a higher idle?

Good point...verry possible. I am rereading Chapters 4 and 5 of the manual as the do mention some tests, but 'the module is delicate and relatively expensive' (Read Very I bet!) 'the tests must be done with the right equipment by someone who knows how to use it properly' (Read burn up easily and most peolpe do!) Also the way this manual mixes Carb and EFI together in an intertwined mess makes it tough to decifer at times...Ah well.

I'll check into a new one and the possibility of having it tested.

Thanks 4 the Post.

 

[N2TekAndrew]

Good point...verry possible. I am rereading Chapters 4 and 5 of the manual as the do mention some tests, but 'the module is delicate and relatively expensive' (Read Very I bet!) 'the tests must be done with the right equipment by someone who knows how to use it properly' (Read burn up easily and most peolpe do!) Also the way this manual mixes Carb and EFI together in an intertwined mess makes it tough to decifer at times...Ah well.
I'll check into a new one and the possibility of having it tested.

Thanks 4 the Post.

One more thing... Found a better discription and a few pics at the AutoZone Site I thought I would share:

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,10410...900c152801cd403

 

[BroncoJoe19]

http://www.autozone.com/R,2247457/vehicleI...oductDetail.htm

Ignition Control Module Not too expensive.... $46

 

[N2TekAndrew]

http://www.autozone.com/R,2247457/vehicleI...oductDetail.htm
Ignition Control Module Not too expensive.... $46

Yupp that was it. Replaced Module (carefully marking initial position but w/o removing Distributer /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> ) It took care of these but then got some new codes. Checked Timing and it was WAY advanced. Dialed it in and Batta-Bing! Code Free!

Took her down yesterday to get it Smogged ans she PASSED! Yee Ha!

Thanks for all your help.

A