Spout question, and happy holidays to all!

[DLR]

Have a 95, 351 just bought, here's my dilemma with this Bronco!! Purchased it with a rebuilt motor with very low mileage run's very smooth tight motor! It idols at 1200 RPM, went though all sensor's. When I unplug the idle sensor it runs at 600 RPM smoothly. Vacuum good. So I checked the timing timing was @10°. I had looked for the spout and could not find it turns out that it was removed. So I had one from a 302 harnessed and plugged in did not change the timing mark with timing light. Plugged or not plugged in. Also noticed when it was plugged in the motor was rough and backfiring a little. Thinking distributor problem? Thanks for any help

 

[miesk5]

Yo DRL,
For now;
EFI High Idle Tips by Mikey 350:
"Take off the air intake hoses so you can access the throttle bores. Start the engine and place a piece of stiff cardboard over the throttle bores. That should NOT change a correctly configured engine, as the idle air is only from the opening of the IAC, and nothing through the throttle bores.
If that make a difference, then the throttle plates are slightly open due to the removal of the Teflon coating, or the linkage/return spring/throttle stop is screwed up.
If the engine still runs too fast with the throttle opening blocked, try taking off the IAC and blocking those openings.
What you have done is (supposedly) removed all the "normal" air intakes, and if the engine still runs, you have a vacuum leak.
You could then try leaving the air intakes (throttle and IAC) blocked and cap off the vacuum lines coming off the vacuum tree. (except the MAP line) If one of those makes a difference, investigate the leak.
Check the vacuum line from the vapor canister (on the left side of the throttle, when facing the throttle assembly) (cap it, on the outside chance that the solenoid has failed open) (if equipped)
Pull the EGR connection to the intake and plug or cover it. (if you have wide duct tape, use that to cover the hole)
If it still is running with the throttle blocked and the IAC and the lines from the vacuum tree capped, then you have a manifold or PCV line leaking. Plug the PCV line to the intake, then the vacuum line to the brake booster (if it has it's own fitting on the manifold)
Something is causing that high idle, and 95% of the time it is a vacuum leak."

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Also;


IAC LOCATION
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SPOUT CONNECTOR LOCATION FOR OTHER MEMBERS;

 

[DLR]

Thank you, first thing cardboard test proved air leak around plates! What was they thinking using Teflon coating lol. Guess only one thing, replacement? I found so fare two types BBK 3501 56mm $399.and #3503 61mm size bore @419. Which one used for 351 automatic transmission. Be using it for for pulling 20' boat, trailer, daily driver. Bronco has headers and maybe mild cam.The spout and timing will wait untill idle is fixed! Thank you again for your input!!

 

[miesk5]

Yo DLR,
You have a very good looking Bronco!

 

[DLR]

Did a 2nd check, before ordering throttle body, I took throttle body off look at the plates with light, found no air spaces around plates reinstalled. Then blocked IAC with tape fast idle stopped . Then I checked with voltage voltmeter ground lead to battery ground checked each wire connection to IAC read voltage just under battery volt in each wire? I removed tape and leaving it unplugged. Also removing spout does not change timing and runs better with out it. So that said Bronco runs perfect around town so far! , . Could the computer been changed? I go back to the points and condenser days. The auto computer has made life harder for us all lol. With all the sensors etc my newer truck don't get much better gas mileage than my classic truck did.lol. I really appreciate any input thanks.