o Hi o 83 300i6 newbie

[10sun]

I just bought it tonight and had my friend drive it 135 miles to get home.

Almost 7 hours total time to get it after a week of back and forth with the guy selling it.

1983 Ford Bronco

Frame is immaculate. Almost to the point where I felt I was being led on.

Rear 1/4 panels both need replaced.

Need some floor pan recovery, about 1/2" x 8" right by the passenger rocker panel.

Had an engine transplant or paint job at some point. It is a blue 300 straight six... for some reason I thought they were supposed to be gray in 1983.

Borg Warner T18 I think.

6" suspension lift on half worn 35" Super Swamper SSRs(I think). Alignment & steering are corrected for the lift, even wear pattern on the tires. Saves me a headache from my understanding.

No interior to speak of. Instrument cluster doesn't work except for the light that shows nothing moving.

Problems filling it with gas, I think the line from the fuel cap to the tank itself might have a kink in it... sprays back if you try to fill it up too quick. Spent almost 30 minutes putting 15 gallons into it.

Guy tossed in a York compressor when I mentioned wanting to do on-board air as a summer project. Then he told me to dig around in his barn for two newer seats to use while I get the originals reupholstered.

I am looking forward to the rebuild. I've got a lot of friends who are all eager to hear that I was getting it and now lets see what kind of real help I get.

-Adam

ps. top speed sucked... maxed at 73mph downhill. Didn't seem to be anywhere near a redline, is that just what I should expect from the carb / engine / tranny combo I have? I don't mind not getting speeding tickets, just don't want to be dangerously underpowered on the highway.

 

[10sun]

oh. and the hood scoop ******** is getting ripped off in the morning.

 

[miesk5]

yo 10sun,

WELCOME!

Without recepits for recent maintenance; I would replace all fluids and filters; then go thru the drill of checking plugs, wires, etc.

Spark Plug Firing End Analysis, General

Source: by Autolite® @ http://www.autolite.com/sites/default/a/uploads/en/plugtips.pdf

Checking Spark Plug Wires @ http://www.prestolitewire.com/pages/diagnostic_tips/56.php

For New PARTs,

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& see my Site's PARTS Section @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=820

and the Section that shows Vendors that offer FREE BRONCO PARTS CATALOGS! http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1522

a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;

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Select All Parts

year, etc, then FORD TRUCK

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http://www.picknpull.com

http://www.car-parts.com/

Also for obsolete parts;

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and: by Ford pn:

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http://www.rearcounter.com

http://www.greensalescompany.com

GL

 

[c4artist]

nice body style. jealous i don't have the skills currently to do a rebuild. i felt it was best to buy one mostly done. just picked up a 79 bronco that is beautiful. if you dont mind me asking, how much did you pay and how much do you think you will sink into it?

 

[10sun]

I paid $1800, right now I'd like to keep the costs down to $3k before June, but I have a feeling I'll end up closer to 5.

I don't have the complete skillset to rebuild this entirely, however I have a great support network & no problem figuring things out when I come to them.

Miesk5, I appreciate your insight and links; that along with a once over with my mechanic has helped me put together a work plan.

Things I want to do:

1. Fill hose replacement/upgrade & locking fuel cap. If I can't fill it up easily, I will get aggravated. If it gets stolen, I will get ******. [$50]

2. Door locks (turns out they lock, but don't unlock all the way with my keyset... had to call AAA this morning to have them break me in). [$50]

3. Muffler (for now... just don't want to get pulled over for that and have the ticket get worse). [$100]

4. Replace the seats with something new and waterproof (last night they were wet & driving around today they were horrible. [$500]

5. Fix tailgate (of course the motor is broken & the window is up)... I'm tempted to just remove the damn thing entirely and figure out a way to fabricate a tailgate w/o the window. [$50 to $250]

6. Repair interior body / patch / sound dampening & maybe spray a bedliner (maybe I'll stick down some astroturf instead though). [$250-1000]

7. Replace both rear quarter panels. [$750-1000]

8. Complete undercoat & touchup paint everywhere else courtesy of slow days at work & just needing to cover paint costs. [$500]

9. Clean up engine & bay, rewire / paint everything / setup onboard air. [$250-500]

10. Replace dash / instrument cluster / stereo (honestly I'm thinking I should wire that up in the center console area along with a few standard A/C outlets). [$500]

11. Enjoy the summer (with a used soft top) [$250]

12. Start process anew.

I'm sure I'll probably end up spending near $10k on it within the next two years. I'll eventually want a good paint job on it; probably going to stick with the white, black, & chrome details though; I'll also be trying to source another straight six 300 that is a bit cleaner as a "just in case" replacement part; same with the transmission... maybe even figure out a way to put a 5 speed manual into it. And of course, I want a winch & maybe even a new set of wheels (expecting to drop $1500 there).

I took a look at a couple of the Gen2 Broncos over the past month while looking for the one that clicked... I saw a lot of mudtoys that people have just trashed and left with rusted out interiors.

This one had been used as a farmtruck, but someone had taken the time to do an undercoat of both the body & the frame.

 

[Rons beast]

Welcome 10.

The engine probably could use freshining, as Miesk5 says. But pushing 35s on the highway with a 6 is gonna be tough to get much more than 75 t0 80 out of it. These things just aren't geared for the highway.

Looks Good....keep us posted on your progress.

Good Luck

 

[10sun]

$8.50 later, new alternator / water pump belt. ::edit:: it must have broken off last night on the ride home, I do remember a point at which the headlights dimmed a bit and there was a whining before a snap. Whoops!

Tomorrow: Oil change & new set of spark plugs (plus any leads that might be bad).

Yeah, I'm bored... I can't wait for the workweek to resume.

 

[10sun]

New wireset + plugs: $35

Oil change kit (10w40): $23

 

[10sun]

Adjusted clutch assembly the other day after work, took 10 minutes and it shifts much better now.

It was a nice day, so I did the wireset/plugs in the field, had to climb up into the engine bay to get the 6th plug. I wish I had a pet monkey.

The wire from the distributor to the coil wasn't long enough, so I just left the original.

Other projects for this evening:

New fuel filter: $5.99

New pedals(the old ones are half gone): $12.99

Total with tax: $20.26

For the next couple of weeks it will just be all the little things before I start with major systems / bodywork. I'm going to start working on the electronics schematics tomorrow... I can't decide if I want to piecemeal them to where I want or just completely replace it all. I'm thinking replacing it is the way to go, so I want to put together a plan.

I'm thinking of pulling the stock radio (I eventually want to place that in the center console), installing a switchboard & setting that up for: fog lights, interior lights, onboard air, tailgate window control, and I am not sure what else... possibly a complete system **** switch.

 

[10sun]

My friend decided that he wanted to use it while I was at work; he stalled it a half mile from my house.

When he tried to start it again & the battery just stopped pushing enough current. Other friend towed him home (and bent the brush guard in the process).

I got home, jumped started it without issue; let it run for a few minutes. Turned it off, same problem.

Pulled the battery and alternator, brought them to my friend's shop to test. Battery was low on volts, but full amps. Alternator was shot.

Picked a refurb 70a alternator from Autozone for $48 (with a lifetime warranty). I was tired and cranky at that point (Autozone took almost an hour), so I just made some dinner and cracked open a beer.

I'll install it tomorrow after work and I get drunk now.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

For late night and roadside fixes; seach my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function

some results are repeated because they are used in various sections of the site

Click; Next Results

such as

in an 83

result Examples;

Alternator Wiring Diagram in an 83 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Fred also shows the starter relay pic

Starter & Relay Wiring Diagram in an 83 by Seabronc http://broncozone.com/topic/13341-wiring/

Power Window

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3252

Motor Replacement in an 83 by Seabronc

witch & Ignition Actuator Rod & TSBs http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7243

Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year. Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it..." by Seabronc

CONNECTORS & COMPONENT LOCATIONSC101 at batty ground pigtail; C105 at ignition module; C121 below junction block; C128 near dual brake warning switch; C208A attached to instr cluster; C221 at radio noise capacitor near ign. coil; C230 front of eng. near distributor; C311, C321 & C325 LH fender apron near ign. module; C322 at distributor; C323 at ign. module; C327 behind center of IP; C332 fwd of RH side of dash panel; C352 near TPS; C1983 near BA Locations in an 83 Duraspark II Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

FUSIBLE LINK:

B, D, E, F, G, H, I & N Location in Wiring Diagram in an 83; I-Orange to?, H-Green to Link B-Yellow to Trailer, G-Green to Aux Battery Relay, F-Red to Trailer, E-Orange to Splice S220, N-Red to Start/Ignition (EEC), D-to Voltage Regulator A & Alternator S

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Duraspark II Troubleshooting in an 83; Page 8 & next page(s)

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/22450-new-guy-to-bronco-world-weird-ignition-coil-problem/

Coil Wiring Diagram in an 83 Duraspark II

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=11373

Fuse Block pic in an 83 w/Nomeclature and Amp Rating



Windshield Wiper Wiring Diagram with interval timer in an 83

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=9753

Restoration & Modification http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=212&s=165...

Info & pics in an 83 by Seabronc

Installation (OEM) Instrument Cluster in an 83

Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/6364/52813

Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal in an 83 4.9 with VACUUM DIAGRAM

Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at SuperMotors.net



Floor/Defrost Door Repair in an 83; "...After running around all winter with just floor and defrosters, finally pulled her apart and fixed the flapper door. The plastic hinge had given up. Not too bad of a repair. Pulled the dash pad, dismounted the upper attachments for the dash, pulled the passenger side duct for access, then installed a couple of small brass hinges in place. Door works now, although just slightly off - if wont completely close off the dash vents until I hit a bump or vibration settles the door. Got the hinge rotational axis as close as possible, but it was off just a hair. Overall, just happy to have the ability to use all the discharge options again..."

Source: by Marginallystable

Blend Door Location & Replacement Info in an 83; "...If you can take out your glove box, it will make it much easier. If not, you can probably feel around and find it. Just above the box housing the heater core you should find a clamp that holds the other end of the cable from your heater controls. Follow that about an inch or three towards the driver's side until you feel a lever. This controls the little door that bypasses the heater. Just move that lever/door and you should be running heat...."

Source: by darb

==

and in other sections;

Quarter Panel Replacement & Repair LINKs Summary

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/20002-rear-quarter-panel-replacement/page__gopid__106693entry106693

Floor Pan Repair in an 86

Source: by Damager

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1371/17084

Rocker Panel http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1694

BODY PANEL & Rocker Panel Sourcehttp://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-1161-bronco-80-86.html

Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order

 

[10sun]

Thanks again Miesk5!

I have been fighting being sold bad alternators by Autozone & NAPA since my last post. I eventually just refused to anymore ****** Chinese alternators; Autozone refunded my money and NAPA got a good one to me two days later (the first two I refused to take until they tested them and they both weren't charging... eventually they just gave me a new one because of their issues with that batch of remanufactured alternators).

Installed it, etc etc etc.

I let my mechanic friend wire it up.

He used a splice connector for 18/20g wires to connect a 14 to 10. Wonder why that didn't work? He also told me that I didn't need to wire up the alternator indicator lamp... I asked a few coworkers and they all said the same thing.

Well, I figured out the wiring was bringing the connectors together. Tore some hair out because I just couldn't get the alternator regulator to kick in and make some electricity for me.

I was bored and drunk and reading wikipedia after the bar last night. "if the warning lamp burns out or the "exciter" wire is disconnected, no current reaches the field windings and the alternator will not generate power."

I jumped up and yelled out, "SON OF A BITCH LIARS".

Went out this morning and wired up the alternator indicator lamp and all is right in my world.

Aside from the fuse for the turn signals burning out somewhere along this journey (maybe later today).